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Old silver two hinged part bracelet (naugari) with projections of simulated gajre balls made from stamped sheet silver. From Rajasthan, India. The inner part was wrapped in cotton cloth to avoid the heat of metal on the skin and also silver loss due to continued use. It is usually worn with many others on the arms, covering up all length of them. From mid 20th Century. It can be fastened with a pin. Sizes: Inner perimeter 19,5 cm Inner diameter: 65 mm Outer diameter (between projections): 14 cm approx. Each projection: 35 mm It weighs 287 gr. Literature: ” Traditional Jewelry of India” by Oppi Untracht, page 255. “Bracelets ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie d’Océanie et d’Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002 “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 IND1048
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Gilded silver pair of matching bracelets. Embossed bracelets like this are worn by a bride in Palembang (South Sumatra), one on each wrist, according to Islamic tradition. She wears the bracelets in festive occasions as well. This pair still keeps some hard material inside to avoid bumps and dents. From the 1st half of 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Inner diameter: 6,7 cm (2,64 inches) Total diameter: 9,5 cm (3,74 inches) Width: 3,5 cm (1,38 inches) Weight: 251,1 gr Literature: “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, werelsmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011 INDO21
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Old silver neck ring called “varlo” from Rajasthan and Gujarat, India made with silver wire wrapped around a thicker wire. Worn by both men and women. Silver has been tested as high-grade. From 1st half of XXth Century. The inner diameter of this neck ring is 16 cm 6,3 in). The inner perimeter is about 50 cm (19,68 in) Weight: 328 gr. References: “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers “Colliers ethniques d’Afrique d’Asie, d’Océanie et d’Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003 IND1313
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Pair of earrings with chased and niello decoration of arabesques and a piece of cloisonné enamel on the front, inset with glass, whose finesse contrasts with the pre-Saharan nature of the ornament. These are typical of the Tiznit region. Due to the size and weight of the earrings they are worn as temporals and are attached to the headdress with a chain and a decorated hook. Of exceptional craftmanship, such pieces are particularly ostentatious. The earrings are in pristine condition, no pieces missing or unmatched. From early 20th century, maybe earlier. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: Length of the chain: 50 cm Each earring 15 x 10,5 cm Weight: 151,4 cm Literature: “Berber Memoires”, Draguet, Michel, Mercator fonds, Yale, 2021, p. 269-271 “Splendeurs du Marroc” Editions plume, 1998, p. 253 “Bijoux du Marroc. Du Haut Atlas à la Vallée du Draa”, Rabaté, Marie-rose et Jacques, Edisuc/Le Fennec, 1996, p. 53 MAR295
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Old silver pendant necklace, used as a lingam casket box. These pendants were designed as containers to hold a sacred lingam stone representing the god Shiva. With gold appliqué on the top of the casket. Lingayats are a Hindu group who believe that Shiva is the only deity, rather than the 3 gods revered by other Hindus. They also believed that the sacred presence of Shiva was not simply confined to the temple, but that it could be held in these pendants for a personal connection to the god. Bibliography: “Traditional Jewelry of India” by Oppi Untracht, page133. This is an original and worn piece, in excellent condition, from the 19th Century. Provenance: Ex- Michael Backman Gallery Length of the chain: 83 cm Size of pendant: 4,5 x 6,8 cm It weighs 108 gr. For more information about this fascinating pieces, please see my post on Indian lingam box caskets. IND1148
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A gold marriage pendant from South India, worn by women in Tamil Nadu and Kerala. This kind of pendants are not massive gold, they usually have a lac core. Purity of gold is 22 kt. From early 20th century or earlier. Provenance: Spanish private collection. Dimensions: Height:3,8 x 1,5 x 1,4 cm Weight: 5,47 gr. Bibliography: “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 “When gold Blossons”, Aitken, Molly Emma, Asia Society & Philip Wilson Publishers, 2004 “Dance of the peacock”, Krishnam, Usha R. Bala, India book House, 2010 “El llenguatge de la joia”, Fundació Caixa Girona, 2008 For more information about these pendants, check our post about Gold Indian talis IND1662
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A gold marriage pendant from South India, worn by women in Tamil Nadu and Kerala. This kind of pendants are not massive gold, they usually have a lac core. Purity of gold is 22 kt. From early 20th century or earlier. Provenance: Spanish private collection. Dimensions: Height:3,7 x 1,5 x 1,7 cm Weight: 6,5 gr. Bibliography: “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 “When gold Blossons”, Aitken, Molly Emma, Asia Society & Philip Wilson Publishers, 2004 “Dance of the peacock”, Krishnam, Usha R. Bala, India book House, 2010 “El llenguatge de la joia”, Fundació Caixa Girona, 2008 For more information about these pendants, check our post about Gold Indian talis IND1661
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Rare woman's Toraja necklace, South and Central Sulawesi, Indonesia. Materials: Silver, wood and painted glass. Most of the glass beads used by the Toraja were imported or derived from trading. The silver beads were probably made by itinerant Bugis smiths; the wood core were typical of Toraja and not found elsewere. From the 19th century or early 20th. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Length: 54 cm (no clasp) Each bead 2,5 x 1 cm Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 344 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 188 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 217 “Gold Jewellery of the Indonesian Archipelago”. Anne Richter, Bruce W. Carpenter, ed.Didier Millet, 2011, p. 256-7 INDO104
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Rare Makara bracelets, from India.
From the 19th century.
Dimensions:
Total diameter: 8 cm
Inner diameter: 5,5 cm
Weight (combined): 119,5 gr
IND1623
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Old silver pendant necklace, used as a lingam casket box. These pendants were designed as containers to hold a sacred lingam stone representing the god Shiva. The upper part is topped by horns, symbolizing Nandi, Shiva's bull mount. From early 20th century. High grade silver. Lingayats are a Hindu group who believe that Shiva is the only deity, rather than the 3 gods revered by other Hindus. They also believed that the sacred presence of Shiva was not simply confined to the temple, but that it could be held in these pendants for a personal connection to the god. Provenance: French private collection Length of the chain: 88 cm Size of the lingam casket: 7 x 10,5 x 3,5 cm It weighs 219,6 gr. For more information about this fascinating pieces, please see my post about silver lingam caskets here Literature: “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, 199 “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 236 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 317 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 140 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 135 IND1689
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High grade silver bracelet from West or Central Timor, Indonesia. Men and women wore this type of bracelet decorated with spirals. The renowned goldsmiths of Ndao and Roti provided this region with silver jewelry for which the smelting of the rijksdaalders of the Netherlands provided the raw material. This particular bracelet has been made with a thick silver plate. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 7,6 x 5,7 cm Inner size: 6 cm Width: 2,5 cm Back opening: 2,2 cm Weight: 149,2 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 296-7 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011, p. 186 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p.300 INDO120
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High-grade silver two-hinged part bracelet (naugari) with projections of simulated gajre balls made from stamped sheet silver. From Rajasthan, India. It is usually worn with many other bracelets on the arms, covering up the whole length. From mid 20th Century or earlier It fastens with a pin. Sizes: Diameter: 14 cm Inner diameter: 7 cm Each projection: 35 mm Weight: 295 gr. Literature: ” Traditional Jewelry of India” by Oppi Untracht, page 255. “Bracelets ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie d’Océanie et d’Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002 “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 IND1173
