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Matching pair of Turkmen bracelets. Made of silver and gilded silver. According to Anne Van Cutsem, this kind of bracelets without gemstones comes from North of Afghanistan. From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Size: 7 x 5,5 x 5,5 cm Inner diameter: 6,5 cm Width: 5,5 cm Back gap: 3,8 cm Weight: 172,7 gr References: “Bracelets ethniques”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 150 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 246 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 104 CA138
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South Sumatran comb used as part of the wedding cerimonial jewellery, together with other pieces (Indonesia). These filigree combs are found in Lampung and are usually referred to as Lampung combs, it appears that they were manufactured n West Sumatra by the Minangkabau who excelled in this work. The filigree and granulated decoration confirm de Islamic influence on the Sumatran coasts. Materials: gilded silver, silver. From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 13,5 x 6 cm Weight: 69,4 gr Literature: “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 280 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 125 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, wereldmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p. 273 INDO155
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Shawl clasp digra worn by Monpa women in Kameng Division, Arunachal Pradesh (India). Used to fasten the clothes, the bail was at the bottom when worn, with an ornamented chain hanging from it. Aka and Miji tribal women from the same division would also wear this garment. Made of silver and turquoise. 19th century or early 20th Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: 13 x 12 cm Weight: 109,2 gr Literature: "The seven sisters of India", Stirn and Van Ham, Prestel, 2000, p. 46 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 139 “Himalayan treasures”, Giehmann, Manfred, The Manfred Giehmann collection, 2019, p.75, 80 HIM152
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Old silver pendant necklace, used as a lingam casket box. These pendants were designed as containers to hold a sacred lingam stone representing the god Shiva. High-grade silver. Lingayats are a Hindu group who believe that Shiva is the only deity, rather than the 3 gods revered by other Hindus. They also believed that the sacred presence of Shiva was not simply confined to the temple, but that it could be held in these pendants for a personal connection to the god. You can see similar samples in “Traditional jewelry of India” by Oppi Untracht, page133. This is an original and worn piece, in excellent condition, from the 19th Century. Provenance: Ex- Michael Backman Gallery The size of the pendant is nearly 61 mm wide by 52 mm high. The chain is 70 cm long approx. (27,56 in). Weight: 86 gr. For more information about this fascinating pieces, please see my post on Indian lingam box caskets. IND1153
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Gilded silver pair of matching bracelets. Embossed bracelets like this are worn by a bride in Palembang (South Sumatra), one on each wrist, according to Islamic tradition. She wears the bracelets in festive occasions as well. This pair still keeps some hard material inside to avoid bumps and dents. From the 1st half of 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Inner diameter: 6,7 cm (2,64 inches) Total diameter: 9,5 cm (3,74 inches) Width: 3,5 cm (1,38 inches) Weight: 251,1 gr Literature: “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, werelsmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011 INDO21
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Necklace with blue, orange, and translucent glass beads, from the Naga people inhabiting the region of Nagaland, in NE India and NW of Myanmar. From 1st half XXth c. As the Nagas possessed no glass-making technology, these beads were traded. Dimensions: Length: 80 cm (31,49 in) It weighs 140 g References: “The Nagas”, Jacobs, Julian, Edition Hansjörg Mayer, 2012 IND1132
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Rare Makara bracelets, from India.
From the 19th century.
Dimensions:
Total diameter: 8 cm
Inner diameter: 5,5 cm
Weight (combined): 119,5 gr
IND1623
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Necklace with old carnelian beads, alternating with bronze bell beads and some orange glass beads. Worn by the Ao Naga people. From the first half of the 20th century, although some brass trumpets and carnelian beads look older. Provenance: Italian private collection. Dimensions: Length: 72 cm Size of the biggest carnelian beads: 3 cm Size of trumpet-shaped beads: 5,5 cm Weight: 226,1 gr Literature: “The Nagas”,Jacobs, Julian, Edition Hansjörg Mayer, 2012, p. 324 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 338 “The splendour of ethnic jewelry”, Borel, France, Thames & Hudson, 1994, p.156 "Arte Naga", Museo Nacional de Etnología, 1988, p.36 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 64 IND1674
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Necklace worn by Dayak Kelabit women in Borneo, Indonesia. Beads are valued by all the Borneo's tribes. Dayak families of the upper class own a certain number of old beads which formed an important part of a family’s prestige and wealth, and were one of the principal forms of currency. Materials: Carnelian, metal, glass beads and feline or bear teeth. Glass beads were for years imported and traded from India, China and Europe. The yellow doughnut beads and the rosette decorated beads have considerable ritual value. Age: The necklace is made with beads of different ages, some of them could be a couple of hundred years old or more, other glass beads are from the 19th and 20th century. The majority of the heirloom glass beads in Kalimantan are most probably from the 17th-19th c, when trade with Europe was at his height. Dimensions: Total length: 80 cm Central tassel of beads: 7 cm Literature: "Heirloom beads among the Dayak of Borneo", Campbell, Barbie, BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers 34 (2022) "Beads of Borneo", Munan, Heidi, Editions Didier Millet, 2005, p. 58-59 "Beads in Indonesia" Adhyatman, Sumarah - Arifin, Redjeki, Penerbit Djambatan, 1993, p. 94 “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 343 INDO70
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Ceremonial hair comb called hai kara jangga, from East Sumba, Indonesia. On important occasions and especially during rituals following the death of a highly placed member of the nobility, women dance with these combs stuck into the hair bun as a crown. Marriageable young women wear the comb over their forehead. The combs are still worn today, but the custom is fast dying out. This one has bilaterally symmetrical cocks silhouetted and perched on top of antlered deer, depicted in open work with small and delicate designs. Antlered deer symbolise royalty. The fighting cocks represent the upper world of the spirits, ancestors and nobility, as well as the aggression of aristocratic warriors. An abstract central image between them most likely represents a skull tree called an andung, where trophy heads were displayed. Material: Tortoiseshell From the first half of the 20th century. In good condition, although one of the teeth (far left) is missing. Provenance: French private collection. Dimensions: 15,5 x 14 x 5,5 cm For a similar example, please see the Metropolitan Museum of Art website, accession number: 1987.447.15. Literature: “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 216 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 194 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, werelsmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p. 428-9 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 216 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 212 “Power and gold: jewelry from Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines”, Rodgers, Susan, Presteg Verlag, Geneve, 1988, p. 289 “Sieraden, en lichaamsversiering uit Indonesië”, Wassing, Rita, Museum Nusantara, 1984, p 33 “Living with indonesian art”, Brinkgreve, Francine y Stuart-Fox, Rijksmuseum Volkenkunde, 2013, 281 INDO106
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Old Silver belt from Maharashtra, India. Very good silver content, at least 800 or 900/1000.. It depicts a Kirtimukha face. From the first half of the 20th century. Provenance: French private collection. The buckle can be opened with a screw. Two thick snake chains make the rest of the belt. The length of the belt is 77,5 cm Weight: 229 gr References: “Ceintures ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2004 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 IND1692
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Old Indian silver bracelet from Rajasthan. This type of bracelet is also used as anklets in India. The silver content is very good, at least 900/1000. It is made with a thick layer of silver, which makes this bracelet heavier (267 gr) than other similar examples (usually around 70-100 gr). The work on the clasp area is delicate and finely made. From the XIXth Century. It is in very good condition, and it has a very nice worn patina. Women in Rajasthan wear a variety of anklets on both legs, that can be solid or flexible. A newly married girl wears a number of different bands extending to the rim of the skirt. There is a set pattern that follows in the order in which these bands are worn. Right on the ankle rest the flexible anklet, and all the others above it. Check the post about Indian anklets here in my blog for more information. The inner diameter is 72 mm. Inner round perimeter 23 cm It can be easily fastened with a pin. It weighs 267 gr. IND1169
