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Beaded pectoral called hapamat , worn by Kungrat Uzbek women, Central Asia. Women of these Uzbek group make themselves beaded ornaments, that are meant to be protective against evil eye. Unlike other ethnic groups of Central Asia that use silver or gold to make their ornaments, the Kungrats prefer beads to adorn themselves. Materials: Glass beads, metal ornaments, mother of pearl buttons, cowries and cotton thread. From the 60s' of 20th century. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: 34 x 28 cm Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 205 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p. 259 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 110 CA203
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Beaded pectoral called hapamat , worn by Kungrat Uzbek women, Central Asia. Women of these Uzbek group make themselves beaded ornaments, that are meant to be protective against evil eye. Unlike other ethnic groups of Central Asia that use silver or gold to make their ornaments, the Kungrats prefer beads to adorn themselves. Materials: Glass beads, metal ornaments, mother of pearl buttons, cowries and cotton thread. From the 60s' of 20th century. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Pectoral:29 x 21 cm Length of the doble beaded strand to fasten it: 38 cm Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 205 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p. 259 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 110 CA202
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This is a rare silver box. Although it looks Persian at first sight, when examined closely it seems to be from a different region. It is still Quoran box amulet , with a lid that opens, but the decoration looks maybe Middle Eastern. It also has three bails, which suggests that it is worn, not on the forearm (as Persian/Afghans ones) but probably hanging as a pendant. It could also be from Iran or Afghanistan, a different type than the ones that are more often found, or maybe from a transitional region between the Middle East and Central Asia. Material: high grade silver and turquoise. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier. It is in good condition, although the hinge is fragil and needs a silver wire to be functional. Provenance: French private collection. The box was sourced in Saudi Arabia in the 60s or 70s. Dimensions (with bails): 9 x 9 x 1,8 cm Weight: 93 gr ME255
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Old silver pendant necklace, used as a lingam casket box. These pendants were designed as containers to hold a sacred lingam stone representing the god Shiva. Lingayats are a Hindu group who believe that Shiva is the only deity, rather than the 3 gods revered by other Hindus. They also believed that the sacred presence of Shiva was not simply confined to the temple, but that it could be held in these pendants for a personal connection to the god. You can see similar samples in “Traditional Jewelry of India” by Oppi Untracht, page133. This is an original and worn piece, in excellent condition, from the 19th Century. Provenance: Ex- Michael Backman Gallery The size of the pendant is 61 mm wide by 41 mm high. The chain is 73 cm long approx. (28,74 in). It weighs 80 gr. For more information about this fascinating pieces, please see my post on Indian lingam box caskets. IND1151
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Silver bracelet from the Kabyle mountains in Algeria. The bracelet is mde of high grade silver, coral cabochons and enamel. From mid-20th century or earlier. Provenance: French private collection. Dimensions: Diameter: 6 cm Width: 6,3 cm Weight: 189,3 gr Literature: “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 398 “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 25 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 22 “L'argent de la lune”, Makilan, 2015, p. 89 “Abzim Parures et bijoux des femmes d'Algérie“, Tamzali, Wassyla, Enterprisse -algérienne de Presse, 1984, p. 169 ARG131
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Pair of earrings with chased and niello decoration of arabesques and a piece of cloisonné enamel on the front, inset with glass, whose finesse contrasts with the pre-Saharan nature of the ornament. These are typical of the Tiznit region. Due to the size and weight of the earrings they are worn as temporals and are attached to the headdress with a chain and a decorated hook. Of exceptional craftmanship, such pieces are particularly ostentatious. The earrings are in pristine condition, no pieces missing or unmatched. From early 20th century, maybe earlier. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: Length of the chain: 50 cm Each earring 15 x 10,5 cm Weight: 151,4 cm Literature: “Berber Memoires”, Draguet, Michel, Mercator fonds, Yale, 2021, p. 269-271 “Splendeurs du Marroc” Editions plume, 1998, p. 253 “Bijoux du Marroc. Du Haut Atlas à la Vallée du Draa”, Rabaté, Marie-rose et Jacques, Edisuc/Le Fennec, 1996, p. 53 MAR295
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Amazigh/Berber bracelets, from the Central Anti-Atlas in Morrocco. They are nielloed, although some of it is worn away. The dome-shaped appliqués seems to ward off the evil eye. High grade silver. First half of the 20th century or earlier. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Inner diameter: 6 cm Back opening: 3 cm Combined weight: 246,8 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 20 “Bijoux Berbéres Au Marroc dans la tradition judeo-arab”, Rouach, David, ACR Edition, 1989, p. 186 “Bijoux du Marroc. Du Haut Atlas à la Vallée du Draa”, Rabaté, Marie-rose et Jacques, Edisuc/Le Fennec, 1996, p. 93 MAR306
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Rare Minangkabau necklace, from West Sumatra, Indonesia. The necklace is made of gilded high grade silver (tested) and terracotta beads. From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: Length: 60 cm Size of the each pendant: 6,5 x 6 cm Weight: 34,6 gr Literature: “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011 “Gold Jewellery of the Indonesian Archipelago”. Anne Richter, Bruce W. Carpenter, ed.Didier Millet, 2011, p. 285 INDO146
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Silver woman’s Qu’ran holder “muskalik” in a triangular shape, decorated with filigree and a turquoise gemstone, opening lid on top, and coins at the bottom and worn over the shoulder on a long chain. from Syria or Southern Anatolia. Late 19th century,or later 20th. The coins are a later addition to the pendant, which probably had a diferent kind of dangles. Coins are dated 1223 and 1255 of the Islamic calendar, which corresponds to 1801 and 1833. This kind of amulet was an export item made in various smithing centers of the core of the ottoman world (Istanbul, Damascus, Sarajevo…) following a popular trend and fashion from the second half of the 19th century. Material: High grade silver (coins), low grade silver and turquoise. Dimensions: Size of the amulet with coins: 12 x 10 cm Lenght of the chain (approx): 66 cm Literature: “The arts and crafts of Syria”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1992, p. 98 ME225
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High grade silver bracelet from West or Central Timor, Indonesia. Men and women wore this type of bracelet decorated with spirals. The renowned goldsmiths of Ndao and Roti provided this region with silver jewelry for which the smelting of the rijksdaalders of the Netherlands provided the raw material. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 7,5 x 6 cm Inner size: 6 cm Width: 2,5 cm Back opening: 1,7 cm Weight: 104,3 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 296-7 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011, p. 186 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p.300 INDO118
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Solid silver bracelet from Timor (Indonesia). Worn bu Atoni Pah Meto warriors, who occupy most of what is now the Indonesian western half of the island. The silver ornaments were comissioned to silversmiths of Ndao and Roti, and the rijksdaalders coins from the Netherlands were melted to produce the silver. From early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 8 x 6 cm Inner diameter: 5,4 cm Back opening: 2,6 cm Width: 1 cm Weight: 109,7 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 297 “Vanishing beauty“, The Art Institute of Chicago, 2016, p. 222 “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, p. 255 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 211 INDO114
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Solid silver bracelet from Timor (Indonesia). Worn bu Atoni Pah Meto warriors, who occupy most of what is now the Indonesian western half of the island. The silver ornaments were comissioned to silversmiths of Ndao and Roti, and the rijksdaalders coins from the Netherlands were melted to produce the silver. From early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 8,5 x 6 cm Inner diameter: 6 cm Back opening: 2,8 cm Width: 1 cm Weight: 119,5 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 297 “Vanishing beauty“, The Art Institute of Chicago, 2016, p. 222 “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, p. 255 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 211 INDO116
