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Ceremonial hair comb called hai kara jangga, from East Sumba, Indonesia. On important occasions and especially during rituals following the death of a highly placed member of the nobility, women dance with these combs stuck into the hair bun as a crown. Marriageable young women wear the comb over their forehead. The combs are still worn today, but the custom is fast dying out. This one has bilaterally symmetrical cocks silhouetted and perched on top of antlered deer, depicted in open work with small and delicate designs. Antlered deer symbolise royalty. The fighting cocks represent the upper world of the spirits, ancestors and nobility, as well as the aggression of aristocratic warriors. An abstract central image between them most likely represents a skull tree called an andung, where trophy heads were displayed. Material: Tortoiseshell From the first half of the 20th century. In good condition, although one of the teeth (far left) is missing. Provenance: French private collection. Dimensions: 15,5 x 14 x 5,5 cm For a similar example, please see the Metropolitan Museum of Art website, accession number: 1987.447.15. Literature: “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 216 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 194 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, werelsmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p. 428-9 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 216 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 212 “Power and gold: jewelry from Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines”, Rodgers, Susan, Presteg Verlag, Geneve, 1988, p. 289 “Sieraden, en lichaamsversiering uit Indonesië”, Wassing, Rita, Museum Nusantara, 1984, p 33 “Living with indonesian art”, Brinkgreve, Francine y Stuart-Fox, Rijksmuseum Volkenkunde, 2013, 281 INDO106
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Hair pin from Sumba, Indonesia Material: Tortoiseshell From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: 14 x 6,5 cm Literature: INDO42
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Ceremonial necklace of woven silver wire, expanded al regular interval to form beads. From Sumbawa island, Indonesia. Only a needle was used to create the very fine detail on this kidd of ornaments. With such rudimentary tools, great craftmanship was required. From the 19th century. In good condition, considering age and wear. The central "bead" has been slightly damaged (see pictures). Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Length: 74 cm Size of the beads: 1,7 cm Weight: 45,3 gr Literature: “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 191 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, wereldmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p. 488-9 INDO105
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Pubic ornament for boys, which was worn around the waist. From Sumbawa, Indonesia. High grade silver, decorated with filigree and granulation. From the 19th century. Dimensions: Ornament(with round beads): 7,5 x 5,5 cm Height with base: 20,5 cm Weight: 16,2 gr Literature: “Sieraden, en lichaamsversiering uit Indonesië”, Wassing, Rita, Museum Nusantara, 1984, p.116 INDO133
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Solid silver bracelet from Timor (Indonesia). Worn bu Atoni Pah Meto warriors, who occupy most of what is now the Indonesian western half of the island. The silver ornaments were comissioned to silversmiths of Ndao and Roti, and the rijksdaalders coins from the Netherlands were melted to produce the silver. From early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 8 x 6 cm Inner diameter: 5,4 cm Back opening: 2,6 cm Width: 1 cm Weight: 109,7 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 297 “Vanishing beauty“, The Art Institute of Chicago, 2016, p. 222 “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, p. 255 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 211 INDO114
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Solid silver bracelet from Timor (Indonesia). Worn bu Atoni Pah Meto warriors, who occupy most of what is now the Indonesian western half of the island. The silver ornaments were comissioned to silversmiths of Ndao and Roti, and the rijksdaalders coins from the Netherlands were melted to produce the silver. From early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 8,5 x 6 cm Inner diameter: 6 cm Back opening: 2,8 cm Width: 1 cm Weight: 119,5 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 297 “Vanishing beauty“, The Art Institute of Chicago, 2016, p. 222 “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, p. 255 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 211 INDO116
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High grade silver bracelet from West or Central Timor, Indonesia. Men and women wore this type of bracelet decorated with spirals. The renowned goldsmiths of Ndao and Roti provided this region with silver jewelry for which the smelting of the rijksdaalders of the Netherlands provided the raw material. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 7,5 x 6 cm Inner size: 6 cm Width: 2,5 cm Back opening: 1,7 cm Weight: 104,3 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 296-7 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011, p. 186 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p.300 INDO118
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Rare woman's Toraja necklace, South and Central Sulawesi, Indonesia. Materials: Silver, wood and painted glass. Most of the glass beads used by the Toraja were imported or derived from trading. The silver beads were probably made by itinerant Bugis smiths; the wood core were typical of Toraja and not found elsewere. From the 19th century or early 20th. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Length: 54 cm (no clasp) Each bead 2,5 x 1 cm Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 344 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 188 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 217 “Gold Jewellery of the Indonesian Archipelago”. Anne Richter, Bruce W. Carpenter, ed.Didier Millet, 2011, p. 256-7 “Beads in Indonesia”, Adhyatman, Sumarah - Arifin, Redjeki, Penerbit Djambatan, 1993, p. 118 INDO104
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Elbow bracelet called “iwuki” or “aweyka”. It is a large ring carved in stone (or sometimes wood) worn by men above the elbow. It could be worn alone or with other similar bracelets. The stone is sourced in the Aïr desert. It fell into disuse at the end of the 20th century except for the Fulani Bororo (woodabé), who borrowed them from the Tuareg and wear it frequently, still today. Each shape has a different name. Inner diameter: 8,5 cm Literature: “Bijoux tuaregs”, Burner, Jean, Éditions du Fournel, 2011, p. 254 WA125
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Turkoman woman’s ear pendant called “tenetschir”, generally attached to a headdress, not to the ears. From the Tekke people from the oasis of Merv and Salor people from the oasis of Serachs. Materials: high-grade silver, fire-gilded silver and carnelians in table cut. From the 19th or first quarter of the 20th century. Provenance: UK private collection Dimensions: 20 x 6 cm Weight: 86 gr Literature: “Old silver jewellery of the Turkoman”, Schletzer, Dietrich Reimer Verlag, 1984, p. 184.5 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 134 “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001. p. 81 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 96 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011, p. 134 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 354 CA208
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Big silver Turkmen ring, worn by people of the Teke tribe, Central Asia. The Yuzuk ring is very simple. A large carnelian is set in a wide silver band, a thin twisted wire running around the base of the stone. The band may be decorated with a relief, sometimes a very complicated one, but the general effect is always that of monumentality and severity. High-grade silver, gilded silver and a big old carnelian bead on top. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Top of the ring: 2,5 cm Ring size: 18 mm (inner diameter) or 7 3/4 (US size) Provenance: German private collection. Literature: “Bagues ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie et d’Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p.112 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p.261 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 142 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p.127 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 251 CA147
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Matching pair of Turkmen bracelets. Made of silver and gilded silver. According to Anne Van Cutsem, this kind of bracelets without gemstones comes from North of Afghanistan. From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Size: 7 x 5,5 x 5,5 cm Inner diameter: 6,5 cm Width: 5,5 cm Back gap: 3,8 cm Weight: 172,7 gr References: “Bracelets ethniques”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 150 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 246 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 104 CA138
