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Old silver choker “katesari” necklace from Uttar Pradesh, in Northern India. Each unit contains a foil-backed clear-glass “stone” The lower row has a central auspicious red dot (tikka). From the 1st half of the 20th Century. Dimensions: Silver part length: 18 cm (7,09 in) Width with dangles: 5,5 cm (2,16 inches) It weighs 130 gr. The string has been recently replaced and the size can be adjusted to the neck with a slipknot. References: “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 “Metallschmuck aus Indien”, Höpfner & Haase, Museum für Völkerkunde, Berlin, 1978 “El llenguatge de la joia”, Fundació Caixa Girona, 2008 IND1301
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This is a twelve-strand necklace of very small glass beads, in a red and yellow combination. From the beginning of the 20th century. Bonda women wear a big amount of this necklaces in different lengths, completely covering the front upper part of the body, and rolling them also around their heads. A similar type of necklaces is also worn by other tribes around the Golden Triangle, in the border between Myanmar, Laos and Thailand, like the Karen people. The necklace is approx 80 cm long There’s no clasp to fasten it. IND1352
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Old silver anklet from the Golden Triangle area in SE Asia. This type of anklets and bracelets can be massive or hollow, like this one. The two ends are stylized lotus buds. Very similar gold bracelets were worn in Bangkok in the XIXth Century. From the beginning of the XXth Century. Mainly worn by the Wa/Lawa people. The inside perimeter is approx. 21 cm (8,27 in) and the inner diameter is 7,3 cm (2,87 in) It weighs 50 gr. Bibliography: Anne van Cutsen book “A world of bracelets” Anne Richter book “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”. SEA290
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Old silver pendant necklace, used as a lingam casket box. These pendants were designed as containers to hold a sacred lingam stone representing the god Shiva. Lingayats are a Hindu group who believe that Shiva is the only deity, rather than the 3 gods revered by other Hindus. They also believed that the sacred presence of Shiva was not simply confined to the temple, but that it could be held in these pendants for a personal connection to the god. You can see similar samples in “Traditional Jewelry of India” by Oppi Untracht, page133. This is an original and worn piece, in excellent condition, from the 19th Century. Provenance: Ex- Michael Backman Gallery The size of the pendant is 61 mm wide by 41 mm high. The chain is 73 cm long approx. (28,74 in). It weighs 80 gr. For more information about this fascinating pieces, please see my post on Indian lingam box caskets. IND1151
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High grade silver bracelet from Rajasthan, with nice worn patina. The top of it ends up in a lotus flower which is, according to the Indian tradition, a symbol of spiritual fulfillment. From the first half of the XXth Century. The inner perimeter of the bracelet is 18 cm round (7,09 in), and inner diameter is 6,3 cm (2,48 in) Weight: 160 gr. D40
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Necklace with blue, orange, and translucent glass beads, from the Naga people inhabiting the region of Nagaland, in NE India and NW of Myanmar. From 1st half XXth c. As the Nagas possessed no glass-making technology, these beads were traded. Dimensions: Length: 80 cm (31,49 in) It weighs 140 g References: “The Nagas”, Jacobs, Julian, Edition Hansjörg Mayer, 2012 IND1132
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Ethnic earrings from the Dong people, living in Guizhou, South China. From the beginning to mid 20th century. Fine filigree work and high-quality silver, with a wonderful patina. The earrings were filled at some point with wool for decoration. In a fairly good state, just one of the small silver balls is missing. They are 6 cm long (2,36 in) and they both weigh 28 gr. SEA238
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Old Indian silver bracelet from Rajasthan. This type of bracelet is also used as anklets in India. The silver content is very good, at least 900/1000. It is made with a thick layer of silver, which makes this bracelet heavier (267 gr) than other similar examples (usually around 70-100 gr). The work on the clasp area is delicate and finely made. From the XIXth Century. It is in very good condition, and it has a very nice worn patina. Women in Rajasthan wear a variety of anklets on both legs, that can be solid or flexible. A newly married girl wears a number of different bands extending to the rim of the skirt. There is a set pattern that follows in the order in which these bands are worn. Right on the ankle rest the flexible anklet, and all the others above it. Check the post about Indian anklets here in my blog for more information. The inner diameter is 72 mm. Inner round perimeter 23 cm It can be easily fastened with a pin. It weighs 267 gr. IND1169
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Silver flexible "paizebh" anklet from Uttar Pradesh, India. High-grade silver shaped in a beautiful chain. From mid-XXth Century or earlier. It can be opened easily with a pin. This kind of flexible Indian anklets look lighter and more frivolous than the rigid pieces that can be found in other regions in India, but they are usually heavier than they appear to be. Women in traditional Central India usually wear several flexible and rigid anklets on each leg at the same time. Check the post about Indian anklets here in my blog for more information. Dimensions: Length: 22,5 cm Width: 3,5 cm Weight: 134,1 gr. Literature: “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011 “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 IND1570
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Pair of silver flexible “paizebh” anklets from India. High-grade silver shaped in a beautiful chain. From the first half of the XXth Century. They can be opened easily with a pin. This kind of flexible Indian anklets look lighter and more frivolous than the rigid pieces that can be found in other regions in India, but they are usually heavier than they appear to be. Women in traditional Central India usually wear several flexible and rigid anklets on each leg at the same time. Check the post about Indian anklets in my blog for more information. Dimensions: Length: 28 cm Width: 3 cm Combined weight: 227,6 gr. Literature: “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 “Rajasthan's silver jewellery”, Pandey, Tripti, Rupa &co,, New Delhi, 2003 IND1571
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Old ethnic silver earrings from the Hill Tribes, especially the Hmong ethnic minority, living in the Golden triangle in SE Asia. Made of high grade +800 silver (tested). From mid-XXth Century. Miao silver, made of outstandingly fine silver, are also notable for their clean forms. Whereas rings are very rare, we know of an incredible number of types of earrings, and variations on a single theme. According to van Cutsem, these types of earrings already become rare by the late 70's. The earrings measure 3,5 cm. The gauge is approx. 3 mm. Both of them weigh 9 gr. Reference: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia, America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001 “The art of silver jewellery”, Skira, 2006 “Peoples of the golden triangle”, Lewin, Paul and Elaine, River Books, Bangkok SEA196
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Silver earrings from Himachal Pradesh (India), called "Kantaie" . They were hung in groups of 7, 9 or 11 per ear or side of the head in a piece of cloth, fixed above the ear in the hair, giving the impression of earrings. There's a picture of how they were used in Untracht, ill. 240. High-grade silver. They are from the end of the XIX century or beginning of the XXth Dimensions: Diameter: 9 cm Combined weight: 99 gr. Literature: “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 “Earrings. Ornamental identity and beauty in India”, Ganguly, Waltraud, B.R. Publishing Corporation, 2007 IND482
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Pair of silver flexible “paizebh” anklets from India. High-grade silver. From mid-XXth Century. They can be opened easily with a pin. This kind of flexible Indian anklets look lighter and more frivolous than the rigid pieces that can be found in other regions in India, but they are usually heavier than they appear to be. Women in traditional Central India usually wear several flexible and rigid anklets on each leg at the same time. Check the post about Indian anklets in my blog for more information. Dimensions: Length: 30,5 cm Width (with dangles): 1,7 cm Combined weight: 98,5 gr. Literature: “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 “Rajasthan's silver jewellery”, Pandey, Tripti, Rupa &co,, New Delhi, 2003 IND1577
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Pair of silver flexible “paizebh” anklets from India. High-grade silver. From mid-XXth Century. They can be opened easily with a pin. This kind of flexible Indian anklets look lighter and more frivolous than the rigid pieces that can be found in other regions in India, but they are usually heavier than they appear to be. Women in traditional Central India usually wear several flexible and rigid anklets on each leg at the same time. Check the post about Indian anklets in my blog for more information. Dimensions: Length: 27,5 cm Width (with dangles): 1,2 cm Combined weight: 94,5 gr. Literature: “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 “Rajasthan's silver jewellery”, Pandey, Tripti, Rupa &co,, New Delhi, 2003 IND1578
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Pair of silver flexible “paizebh” anklets from India. High-grade silver. From mid-XXth Century. They can be opened easily with a pin. This kind of flexible Indian anklets look lighter and more frivolous than the rigid pieces that can be found in other regions in India, but they are usually heavier than they appear to be. Women in traditional Central India usually wear several flexible and rigid anklets on each leg at the same time. Check the post about Indian anklets in my blog for more information The anklets are 26,5 cm long. They both weigh 75 gr. Literature: “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 “Rajasthan's silver jewellery”, Pandey, Tripti, Rupa &co,, New Delhi, 2003 IND1572
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Gold men's earrings from Rajasthan, India, called gokhru. The gokhru can be decorated with a chiseled pattern or can be covered with thorns (resembling their Himachali counterpart types, which are worn exclusively by women). This decoration imitates the ball-like blossoms of the Babul tree (Acacia Arabica) which is believed to be a favorite spirit haunt. The design with three balls can be traced back to Assyrian and Babylonian examples. From mid 20th century. Dimensions: 2,8 x 2,5 cm The earrings have a final loop that has to go through the earlobe hole, so slightly stretched earlobe holes are needed. A silver pin is included to be able to secure the earrings. Weight: 11,7 gr Literature: “Earrings. Ornamental identity and beauty in India”, Ganguly, Waltraud, B.R. Publishing Corporation, 2007 “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001 “Indian Jewellery”, Barnard, Nick, V&A publishing, timeless books, Delhi, 2008 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The Pepin Press, 2002 “The golden smile of India”, Van Gelder, Bernardette, ACC Art Books, 2018, p. 31 IND1579
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Old Silver belt from Karnataka, India. A central belt buckle is attached to four thick braided chains with rossettes. Belts are worn by women over the sari. Two mythological animals are depicted here: the holy cow Kamdhenu and the elephant Airavati. Both bring happiness. High-grade silver. From 1st half of 20th Century. The buckle can be opened with a screw. Dimensions: The length of the belt is 83,5 cm Medallions diameter: 2,5 cm Size of the buckle: 13 x 5,5 cm Weight: 315 gr Literature: “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005 “Indian Folk jewellery” Ganguly, Waltraud, B.R. Publishing Corporation, 2015 IND1141
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Silver tribal guard bangle with silver spheres perimeters. These sort of tribal bracelets are worn by Dangee and Patel tribal people of Rajasthan, sometimes on the wrist or just above the elbow. One quarter-hinged part can be opened by a central pin. Very good silver content, with a great patina. From 1st to half 20th Century. Dimensions: Total diameter: 11 cm Inner diameter: 6,5 cm The inner perimeter of the bracelet is 20,5 cm round It weighs 86,8 gr. IND1324 Literature: ” Traditional jewelry of India” by Oppi Untractht.
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Silver tribal guard bangle with big balls perimeter. These sort of tribal bracelets are worn by Dangee and Patel tribal people of Rajasthan, sometimes on the wrist or just above the elbow. One quarter-hinged part can be opened by a central pin. Very good silver content, with a great patina. From 1st to half 20th Century. Dimensions: Inner diameter: 7,3 cm Total diameter: 1,2 cm It weighs 126 gr. Literature: ” Traditional jewelry of India” by Oppi Untractht. IND1326
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Metal hair pins, called “Sipna”, usually made of aluminium. According to Anne van Cutsem (see literature) these hairpins are from Arunachal Pradesh, India. The catalog of the Tribal Museum of Bhubaneswar (Odisha) states that Sipna are worn by the Dongria Kondh women of Chatikona in the Rayagada district. This scissor-shaped, aluminium hairpin is crafted by the Gasi artisans through lost wax process. Dongria Kondh women use it by decorating their bun during marriages and festive occasions. Late 19th or early 20th century. Dimensions: Big sipna: 15 x 12 cm Small sipna: 12 x 6,5 cm Literature: “Parures de tête ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie d’Océanie et d’Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005 IND1604-5
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Solid bracelet, made of high-grade silver (tested). From Sindh region in Pakistan. From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Size: 9,5 x 7,5 cm Inner diameter: 6 cm Weight: 132,6 gr Literature: “Schmuck in Afganisthan”, Janata, Alfred, Akademische Druck, 1981 CA21
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Silver ring from India, with a foil-backed clear-glass “stone”. Glass and high-grade silver. Age: mid-20th century Dimensions: Top of the ring: 4,9 cm Ring size: 19,75 mm inner diameter or US size 9 3/4 Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000 IND1607
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Old Afghan silver ring, with an ancient glass inset. From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: Total length: 4 cm Size: 18,75 mm inner diameter (US size: 8 3/4) CA30
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Old Yemeni ring made of high-grade silver and probably a red synthetic material, decorated with filigree and granulation. The whole ring has an old and worn patina. Rings with coral and carnelian were and are very popular in the area, as the color red has a protective meaning all around this region. If coral or carnelian is not available, red glass Work for the same purpose. From the first half of the 20th Century. The "stone" might be a later replacement. The size of the ring is 18 mm (inner diameter) – US size 7 3/4. Weight: 11 gr. References: “Bagues ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie et d’Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000 “Silver treasures from the land of Sheba”, Ransom. Marjorie, The american university in Cairo Press, 2014 YEM137
