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Helmet Frontlet, Kalimantan, Indonesia

A broad war helmet frontlet shaped from hammered brass known as a tap lavong kayo from Kayanic Dayak, eastern Kalimantan, Borneo, Indonesia.

Material: bronze.

From the first half of the 20th century.

The frontlet is folded gently backwards at the midsection to accommodate the curvature of the helmet and features projecting tendrils that flank a highly stylized visage. Scholars posit that these figures represent protective guardian spirits or perhaps spirits of ancestral figures who protect the warriors during each instance of combat.

Provenance: European private collection

Dimensions:

Only the helmet frontlet: 19,5 x 13 cm

Literature:

“Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 152 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 279, 324 “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 211 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 222

INDO107

Silver coral turquoise saddle ring, Tibet

Big silver men's ring from Tibet. It is called Saddle ring because of the shape similar to a horse saddle. Made of high grade silver, coral and turquoise. From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Provenance: UK private collection. Dimensions: Top of the ring: 2,7 cm Ring size: Adjustable, 9 - 19 mm (inner diameter) Weight: 25 gr Literature: “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 124 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 291 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p.173 “Jewellery of Tibet and the Himalayas”, Clarke, John, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 2004, p. 25 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 155 HIM136

Lampung silver comb, Sumatra (Indonesia)

South Sumatran comb used as part of the wedding cerimonial jewellery, together with other pieces (Indonesia). These filigree combs are found in Lampung and are usually referred to as Lampung combs, it appears that they were manufactured n West Sumatra by the Minangkabau who excelled in this work. The filigree and granulated decoration confirm de Islamic influence on the Sumatran coasts. Materials: gilded silver, silver. From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 13,5 x 6 cm Weight: 69,4 gr Literature: “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 280 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 125 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, wereldmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p. 273 INDO155

Sumbawa silver ornament, Indonesia

Pubic ornament for boys, which was worn around the waist. From Sumbawa, Indonesia. High grade silver, decorated with filigree and granulation. From the 19th century. Dimensions: Ornament(with round beads): 7,5 x 5,5 cm Height with base: 20,5 cm Weight: 16,2 gr Literature: “Sieraden, en lichaamsversiering uit Indonesië”, Wassing, Rita, Museum Nusantara, 1984, p.116 INDO133

Krui or Mentawai Chaman head ornament, (Indonesia)

Head ornament worn by chamans from Krui people (South Sumatra) or from Siberut Island, Mentawai archipielago (Indonesia). Materials: wood, cotton, glass beads, cauris, shell, paper seeds. The suspended objects are considered to have magic powers. First half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 20 x 20 x 18 cm Literature: “Le Monde en Tete”, Seuil, 2019, p. 190 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 186 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 101 “Voyage dans ma tête”, fage éditions, 2010, p. 152 INDO131

Turkoman silver ring, Central Asia

Old Tekke ring, made of high grade silver and fire gilded silver. The whole ring has an old and worn patina. From the Turkoman people, Central Asia. From the first half of the 20th century. Provenance: UK private collection. Size (inner mm): 19,25 mm - US size is 9 1/4 Weight: 8,7 gr Literature: “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 127 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 251 “Bagues ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie et d’Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 112 CA241

Minangkabau gilded silver necklace, Sumatra (Indonesia)

Rare Minangkabau necklace,from West Sumatra, Indonesia. The necklace is made of high grade silver (gilded). While the oval filigree pendants with a central flower might suggest the stylized lotus, they are also typical of the star forms used in the Islamic design protocols of the Ottoman Empire, the Middle East and elsewhere. Late 19th century pictures show women of Solok wearing similar necklaces and it is likely that they were either made in nearby Padang on the coast or asembled there from filigree elements sent down by numerous silversmiths working in the Agam hills. The Central pendant is the biggest, and the rest have decreasing sizes. From the 19th or early 20th century. Dimensions: Length: 50 cm Size of central pendant with dangles: 6,5 x 3,5 cm Weight: 73,6 gr Literature: “Gold Jewellery of the Indonesian Archipelago”. Anne Richter, Bruce W. Carpenter, ed.Didier Millet, 2011, p.286 INDO136

Silver tower ring, Yemen

Yemeni ring made of high-grade silver. This kind of rings are called tower rings, and are also worn by Rashaida women. Age: 1st half of the 20th century. Provenance: UK private collection. Dimensions: Total height of the ring: 4,5 cm Ring size: 18 mm inner diameter - US size 7 3/4 Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 120 “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984, p. 279 ME267

Turkoman gilded silver earrings “tenetschir”, Central Asia

Turkoman woman’s ear pendant called “tenetschir”, generally attached to a headdress, not to the ears. From the Tekke people from the oasis of Merv and Salor people from the oasis of Serachs. Materials: high-grade silver, fire-gilded silver and carnelians in table cut. From the 19th or first quarter of the 20th century. Provenance: UK private collection Dimensions: 20 x 6 cm Weight: 86 gr Literature: “Old silver jewellery of the Turkoman”, Schletzer, Dietrich Reimer Verlag, 1984, p. 184.5 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 134 “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001. p. 81 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 96 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011, p. 134 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 354 CA208

Gau amulet pendant, Tibet

A Tibetan gau amulet pendant, with excellent patina and good workmanship. This gau was worn in the Eastern provinces of Tibet, Kampa region. Made of high grade silver, brass and coral. A leather string was tied at the back to avoid losing the lid. From the 1st half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 6,3 x 4,5 x 3,8 cm Weight: 44,5 gr Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003 “Jewellery of Tibet and the Himalayas”, Clarke, John, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 2004 HIM130

Timor silver bracelet, Indonesia

Solid silver bracelet from Timor (Indonesia). Worn bu Atoni Pah Meto warriors, who occupy most of what is now the Indonesian western half of the island. The silver ornaments were comissioned to silversmiths of Ndao and Roti, and the rijksdaalders coins from the Netherlands were melted to produce the silver. From early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 8,5 x 6 cm Inner diameter: 6 cm Back opening: 2,8 cm Width: 1 cm Weight: 119,5 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 297 “Vanishing beauty“, The Art Institute of Chicago, 2016, p. 222 “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, p. 255 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 211 INDO116

Timor silver bracelet, Indonesia

Solid silver bracelet from Timor (Indonesia). Worn bu Atoni Pah Meto warriors, who occupy most of what is now the Indonesian western half of the island. The silver ornaments were comissioned to silversmiths of Ndao and Roti, and the rijksdaalders coins from the Netherlands were melted to produce the silver. From early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 8 x 6 cm Inner diameter: 5,4 cm Back opening: 2,6 cm Width: 1 cm Weight: 109,7 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 297 “Vanishing beauty“, The Art Institute of Chicago, 2016, p. 222 “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, p. 255 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 211 INDO114

Gujarat silver anklets, India

Big high grade silver anklets from Gujarat, India, with deep repoussé work. These type of anklets is worn by Maldhari women in this region. The big balls are attached to the anklets. These tinkling bells announce the presence of the wearer and at the same time repel insects and ward off the evil eye. Age: 19th century or early 20th. Dimensions: Total size: 13 x 11,5 cm Innner diameter: 7 cm Width: 2,2 cm Combined weight: 775 gr Literature: “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 273 “Indian Folk jewellery”, Ganguly, Waltraud, B.R. Publishing Corporation, 2015, p. 32 “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009, p.pl. 64 “Vanishing beauty“, The Art Institute of Chicago, 2016, p. IND1138

Heavy silver bracelet, Timor (Indonesia)

High grade silver bracelet from West or Central Timor, Indonesia. Men and women wore this type of bracelet decorated with spirals. The renowned goldsmiths of Ndao and Roti provided this region with silver jewelry for which the smelting of the rijksdaalders of the Netherlands provided the raw material. This particular bracelet has been made with a thick silver plate. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 7,6 x 5,7 cm Inner size: 6 cm Width: 2,5 cm Back opening: 2,2 cm Weight: 149,2 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 296-7 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011, p. 186 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p.300 INDO120

Coral necklace “namysto”, Ukraine

A four-strand traditional coral necklace, called"namysto", from Ukraine. In Ukranian folklore corals were used to symbolize youth and health. Bright red beads meant that the woman was strong and healthy, but dull and greyish ones warned of disease. From the 19th century or older. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Length of the longest strand: 68 cm Size of the bigger central bead (diameter): 1,4 cm Weight: 136,7 gr Literature: “Splendor and shine in the river of time“, Steiner, Irene, Liechtensteinisches Landes Museum, 2020, p. 74 EUR20

Coral necklace “namysto”, Ukraine

A three-strand traditional coral necklace, called"namysto", from Ukraine. In Ukranian folklore corals were used to symbolize youth and health. Bright red beads meant that the woman was strong and healthy, but dull and greyish ones warned of disease. From the 19th century or older. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Length of the longest strand: 68 cm Size of the bigger central bead (diameter): 1,5 cm Weight: 134,6 gr Literature: “Splendor and shine in the river of time“, Steiner, Irene, Liechtensteinisches Landes Museum, 2020, p. 74 EUR19

Kabyle coral and silver necklace, Algeria

Silver necklace from the Greater Kabilia in Algeria. These sort of necklaces, called “Azrar”, were given to women as wedding dowry. They were then use on especial celebrations and festivals. Materials: high grade silver, coral and enamel. From the first half of the 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. The necklace has 21 charm pendants in different shapes, also old French silver coins. Some of the pendants were enamel in blue, green and yellow. These colors and the enamel technique used on them are typical of Berber jewelry from the mountainous kabylie, especially from Beni Yenni. A red coral bead was inset on mostly all pendants, to protect the wearer from evil eye and illness. The necklace is shown in its original condition, and hasn’t been clean or repaired. Dimensions: Length: 46 cm Size of bigger pendants: Between 3,2 cm Weight: 153,3 gr It is fastened with a hook. Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 36 “Abzim Parures et bijoux des femmes d'Algérie“, Tamzali, Wassyla, Enterprisse -algérienne de Presse, 1984, p. 164 “Bijoux berbères d'Algérie”, Camps-Fabrer, Edisud, 1990, p. 94 “L'argent de la lune”, Makilan, 2015, p. 97-99 “El llenguatge de la joia”, Fundació Caixa Girona, 2008, p. 116 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 20 ARG130

Timor silver bracelet, Indonesia

High grade silver bracelet from West or Central Timor, Indonesia. Men and women wore this type of bracelet decorated with spirals. The renowned goldsmiths of Ndao and Roti provided this region with silver jewelry for which the smelting of the rijksdaalders of the Netherlands provided the raw material. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 7,5 x 6 cm Inner size: 6 cm Width: 2,5 cm Back opening: 1,7 cm Weight: 104,3 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 296-7 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011, p. 186 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p.300 INDO118

Beaded necklace, Nagaland, India

Necklace with translucent glass beads and bronze bells from the Naga people inhabiting the region of Nagaland, in NE India and NW of Myanmar. From the 19th century or early 20th century. As the Nagas possessed no glass-making technology, these beads were traded. Provenance: Italian private collection Dimensions: Length: 74 cm Size of bigger beads: 4,3 cm It weighs 270,4 g References: “The Nagas”, Jacobs, Julian, Edition Hansjörg Mayer, 2012,p 322 IND1678

Uzbek Tumar pendant, Central Asia

Big gilded silver amulet "Tumar", from Uzbekistan (Central Asia). Materials: silver, gilded silver, turquoisea and glass. From the 19th century or early 20th. Dimensions: 13 x 9,5 x 1,7 cm Weight: 156,8 gr Literature: “Il corallo. Nell'ornamento dell'Asia islamica dalla Turchia all'Uzbekistan”, del Mare, Cristina-Vidale, Massimo, Electa napoli, 2001, p. 101 “Museum of the ethnography of the peoples of the USSR”, Aurora Art Publishers, Leningrad, 1988, p. 118 “A song in metal. Folk Art of Uzbekistan”, Abdullayev, T, Gafur Gulyam Art and Literature Publishers, Tashkent, 1986, p. 237 “Traditional jewellery from Soviet Central Asia and Kazakhstan”, Sovetsky khudozhnik Publishers, 1984, 163 CA201

Shiva lingam casket box, South India

Old silver pendant necklace, used as a lingam casket box. These pendants were designed as containers to hold a sacred lingam stone representing the god Shiva. The upper part is topped by horns, symbolizing Nandi, Shiva's bull mount. From early 20th century. High grade silver. Lingayats are a Hindu group who believe that Shiva is the only deity, rather than the 3 gods revered by other Hindus. They also believed that the sacred presence of Shiva was not simply confined to the temple, but that it could be held in these pendants for a personal connection to the god. Provenance: French private collection Length of the chain: 88 cm Size of the lingam casket: 7 x 10,5 x 3,5 cm It weighs 219,6 gr. For more information about this fascinating pieces, please see my post about silver lingam caskets here Literature: “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, 199 “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 236 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 317 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 140 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 135 IND1689

Sumbawa silver necklace, Indonesia

Ceremonial necklace of woven silver wire, expanded al regular interval to form beads. From Sumbawa island, Indonesia. Only a needle was used to create the very fine detail on this kidd of ornaments. With such rudimentary tools, great craftmanship was required. From the 19th century. In good condition, considering age and wear. The central "bead" has been slightly damaged (see pictures). Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Length: 74 cm Size of the beads: 1,7 cm Weight: 45,3 gr Literature: “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 191 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, wereldmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p. 488-9 INDO105

Aceh silver ring, Sumatra (Indonesia)

A charming silver ring. According to the previous owner the ring is from from Aceh Sumatra (Indonesia).It's decorated with filigree. From the 19th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Ring size: US 8 - 18,25 mm inner diameter INDO100

Miao silver earrings, SW China

Miao silver earrings from the Guizhou, China. The front is in the shape of a hand. High grade silver. Early 20th century. Provenance: French private collection. Dimensions: 5 cm (diameter) Gauge: 5 mm Weight: 48 gr Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001, p. 170 “The art of silver jewellery. From the minorities of China, the Golden Triangle, Mongolia and Tibet”, Skira, 2006, p. 79 “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, 317 SEA506