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Old silver anklet from the Golden Triangle area in SE Asia. This type of anklets and bracelets can be massive or hollow, like this one. The two ends are stylized lotus buds. Very similar gold bracelets were worn in Bangkok in the XIXth Century. From the beginning of the XXth Century. Mainly worn by the Wa/Lawa people. The inside perimeter is approx. 21 cm (8,27 in) and the inner diameter is 7,3 cm (2,87 in) It weighs 50 gr. Bibliography: Anne van Cutsen book “A world of bracelets” Anne Richter book “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”. SEA290
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Necklace with blue, orange, and translucent glass beads, from the Naga people inhabiting the region of Nagaland, in NE India and NW of Myanmar. From 1st half XXth c. As the Nagas possessed no glass-making technology, these beads were traded. Dimensions: Length: 80 cm (31,49 in) It weighs 140 g References: “The Nagas”, Jacobs, Julian, Edition Hansjörg Mayer, 2012 IND1132
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This is a 46-strand necklace of red glass Naga trade beads, all strung together and fastened with an old Indian coin. From 1st half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 55 cm Weight: 245 gr Literature: “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 57 “The Naga”, Jacobs, Julian, Edition Hansjörg Mayer, 2012, p. 314 “Arte Naga”, Museo Nacional de Etnologia, Madrid, 1988, p. 37 IND1624
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Old silver Mauritanian hinged bracelet that can be fastened and unfastened easily. In very good condition. Made of high-grade silver (tested). From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: Size: diameter 9,5 cm Inner diameter: 5,5 cm Width: 2 cm Weight: 116,6 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie d’Océanie et d’Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002 “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984 “Bijoux du Marroc. Du Haut Atlas à la Vallée du Draa”, Rabaté, Marie-rose et Jacques, Edisuc/Le Fennec, 1996 MAR286
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Silver belt with a hand made chain formely used by Son Koli fishermen of the Bombay area, who wore it below the navel over the dhoti (lower garment) to hold the dhoti up. High grade silver. From the 19th century or early 20th. Provenance: German private collection. Length: 87,5 cm Weight: 157,4 gr Literature: “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 IND1647
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Silver and coral earrings which were worn in the Western Rif area in North Morocco, according to Rouach (see literature). High-grade silver (hallmarked with the “Tête de belier”) and coral. The frontal plate of the loops is inset with colourful glass pieces, all in good condition. From the beginning of the 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: Size (each): 10,5 x 6 cm Weight: 75,6 gr Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001, p.20 “Bijoux Berbéres Au Marroc dans la tradition judeo-arab”, Rouach, David, ACR Edition, 1989, p. 62 ““Splendeurs du Marroc” Editions plume, 1998, p.219 MAR292
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Necklace made with filigree and granulated silver beads and phenolic resin. The silver beads are from the beginning of the 20th century or earlier, the phenolic resin beads are from the first half of the 20th c. The composition is newer. Some of the beads are worn and a small portion of the granulation is missing in a couple of them (see pictures). Provenance: German private collection From the 1st half of the 20th century (re-strung later) Materials: high grade silver (the filigree beads) low grade silver (both conical ends and chain) and phenolic resin beads) Dimensions: Total length: 58 cm Size of the phenolic beads:2,6 x 2,2 cm Diameter of silver beads: 1,8 cm Weight:144,7 gr Literature: “Silver treasures from the land of Sheba”, Ransom. Marjorie, The American university in Cairo Press, 2014
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High grade silver bracelet from the Qing Dynasty. Bracelets like this were always a betrothal gift, given to the bride’s family by a middleman, together with other gifts and a proposal card. Age: 19th century. Dimensions: Inner diameter: 6 cm Width: 1,5 cm Literature: “Four centuries of Silver. Personal adornment in the Qing Dynasty and after”, Duda, Margaret, Times editions, Singapure, 2002, p.102 SEA301
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High grade silver bracelet from the Qing Dynasty. Bracelets like this were always a betrothal gift, given to the bride’s family by a middleman, together with other gifts. Age: 19th century. Dimensions: Inner diameter: 6 cm Width: 1,5 cm Literature: “Four centuries of Silver. Personal adornment in the Qing Dynasty and after”, Duda, Margaret, Times editions, Singapure, 2002, p.102 SEA296
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Silver ring, with two coral beads insets, for doble protection. Rare find, in good condition. From the 19th century or early 20th. High grade silver and coral. Provenance: Spanish private collection. Size of the ring: 20 mm or US size 10 Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 98-99 “Silver treasures from the land of Sheba”, Ransom. Marjorie, The American university in Cairo Press, 2014, p.63 YEM106
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Fulani (Peul) necklace, made with very old carnelian round beads, old Czech glass beads and skunk old Venetian glass beads. This type of necklaces is valued by many of the Fulani groups, and women wear several strands at the same time. Carnelian is believed to ease menstrual pains and help cure sicknesses of the blood. The carnelian arriving for centuries to the West African cultures came from the mines in Gujarat, India, first through the Arab trade boats and then by caravan crossing Africa from East to West. Dimensions: Length: 80 cm The round carnelian beads measure 1 cm. Weight: 152,9 gr. Literature: “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984, p. 169 WA166
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High grade silver flat plain neck ring, mainly worn by Akha women (Hill tribes, Golden Triangle, SE Asia). These neck ornaments were made by hammering a silver plate until the desired shape was achieved. From early 20th century. Provenance: Italian private collection Dimensions: Size: 19 x 18 cm Inner diameter: 13,5 cm Back opening: 4,5 cm Weight: 194,2 gr Literature: “Peoples of the golden triangle”, Lewin, Paul and Elaine, River Books, Bangkok, 1998, p. 48 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 141 “The art of silver jewellery. From the minorities of China, the Golden Triangle, Mongolia and Tibet”, Skira, 2006, p.142-144-5 “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 318 SEA492
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This is a rare silver box. Although it looks Persian at first sight, when examined closely it seems to be from a different region. It is still Quoran box amulet , with a lid that opens, but the decoration looks maybe Middle Eastern. It also has three bails, which suggests that it is worn, not on the forearm (as Persian/Afghans ones) but probably hanging as a pendant. It could also be from Iran or Afghanistan, a different type than the ones that are more often found, or maybe from a transitional region between the Middle East and Central Asia. Material: high grade silver. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier. It is in good condition. Provenance: French private collection. The box was sourced in Saudi Arabia in the 60s or 70s. Dimensions (with bails): 6,5 x 6 x 1,8 cm Weight: 53 gr ME252
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This is a rare silver box. Although it looks Persian at first sight, when examined closely it seems to be from a different region. It is still Quoran box amulet , with a lid that opens, but the decoration looks maybe Middle Eastern. It also has three bails, which suggests that it is worn, not on the forearm (as Persian/Afghans ones) but probably hanging as a pendant. It could also be from Iran or Afghanistan, a different type than the ones that are more often found, or maybe from a transitional region between the Middle East and Central Asia. Material: high grade silver. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier. It is in good condition. The hinge on one side is working, but the lock on the other side can not be fastened to the base. Provenance: French private collection. The box was sourced in Saudi Arabia in the 60s or 70s. Dimensions (with bails): 6,5 x 6 x 1,8 cm Weight: 43 gr ME253
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This is a rare silver box. Although it looks Persian at first sight, when examined closely it seems to be from a different region. It is still Quoran box amulet , with a lid that opens, but the decoration looks maybe Middle Eastern. It also has three bails, which suggests that it is worn, not on the forearm (as Persian/Afghans ones) but probably hanging as a pendant. It could also be from Iran or Afghanistan, a different type than the ones that are more often found, or maybe from a transitional region between the Middle East and Central Asia. Material: high grade silver. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier. It is in good condition. Although it has a lid, it doesn't seem to be openable, also no hinges. Provenance: French private collection. The box was sourced in Saudi Arabia in the 60s or 70s. Dimensions (with bails): 6,5 x 6 x 1,8 cm Weight: 52,8 gr ME250
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Gilded silver necklace called simata, worn by the Karo Batak in Sumatra, Indonesia. Worn by unmarried women. Sime glass beads are also strung in this necklace. Age: 19th or early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Total length: 84 cm Size of the bidonical beads: 2,5 cm Weight: 43,3 gr Literature: “Gold Silver and Brass, jewellery of the Batak”, Sibeth, Achim, 5 Continents Editions, 2012, p. 142 “Sieraden, en lichaamsversiering uit Indonesië”, Wassing, Rita, Museum Nusantara, 1984, p.96 INDO110
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This is a twelve-strand necklace of very small glass beads, in a red and yellow combination. From the beginning of the 20th century. Bonda women wear a big amount of this necklaces in different lengths, completely covering the front upper part of the body, and rolling them also around their heads. A similar type of necklaces is also worn by other tribes around the Golden Triangle, in the border between Myanmar, Laos and Thailand, like the Karen people. The necklace is approx 80 cm long There’s no clasp to fasten it. IND1352
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Silver earrings from Himachal Pradesh (India), called "Kantaie" . They were hung in groups of 7, 9 or 11 per ear or side of the head in a piece of cloth, fixed above the ear in the hair, giving the impression of earrings. There's a picture of how they were used in Untracht, ill. 240. High-grade silver. They are from the end of the XIX century or beginning of the XXth Dimensions: Diameter: 9 cm Combined weight: 99 gr. Literature: “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 “Earrings. Ornamental identity and beauty in India”, Ganguly, Waltraud, B.R. Publishing Corporation, 2007 IND482
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Gilded silver Karo Batak ring called Tapak gajah, from Sumatra, Indonesia. This type of ring was made on instructions from a guru or religious specialist, and was worn as a method of treatment. Additional magic substances were often inserted on the inside of the bezel. The Batak interprered illness as proof that their living soul had temporarily lost direct contact with its person. Through such a ring and the medicine of a guru the soul could be persuaded to stay close to the patient, who would quickly recover from his or her illness. The outside of the ring is decorated with lavish filigree, twisted wires and granulations. From the 19th or early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection Dimensions: Top of the ring: 1,5 x 1,2 cm Ring size: US 9 - 19 mm inner diameter Literature: “Bagues ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie et d’Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 177 “Gold Silver and Brass, jewellery of the Batak”, Sibeth, Achim, 5 Continents Editions, 2012. p. 118 “Power and gold: jewelry from Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines”, Rodgers, Susan, Presteg Verlag, Geneve, 1988, p. 279 INDO98
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Old silver Rashaïda bracelet, finely decorated. This type of bracelets can be found in Ethiopia, Yemen, and Sudan, and were used in the upper part of the arm. From the first half 20th Century or earlier. High-grade silver (tested). Dimensions: Total diameter: 14 cm Inner diameter: 7 cm Width: 2,7 cm Weight: 215,8 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002 “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984 “Silver treasures from the land of Sheba”, Ransom. Marjorie, The American university in Cairo Press, 2014 ME181
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South Indian Silver bracelet from Tamil Nadu, South India. Regardless the precise and rich refined decoration, this kind of bracelet belong to rural communities. From the 1st half of the 20th century. Provenance: ex-Dutch private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 10,5 x 11 x 4 cm Inner diameter: 7,5 cm Weight: 111,2 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 169 “Indian Folk jewellery”, Ganguly, Waltraud, B.R. Publishing Corporation, 2015, p.107 “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 IND1643
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This is a rare silver box. Although it looks Persian at first sight, when examined closely it seems to be from a different region. It is still Quoran box amulet , with a lid that opens, but the decoration looks maybe Middle Eastern. It also has three bails, which suggests that it is worn, not on the forearm (as Persian/Afghans ones) but probably hanging as a pendant. It could also be from Iran or Afghanistan, a different type than the ones that are more often found, or maybe from a transitional region between the Middle East and Central Asia. Material: high grade silver. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier. It is in good condition, although both hinges are broken and the lid has to be attached to the base to be functional. Provenance: French private collection. The box was sourced in Saudi Arabia in the 60s or 70s. Dimensions (with bails): 8,5 x 8 x 1,8 cm Weight: 72,8 gr ME258
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A Tibetan gau amulet pendant, with excellent patina and good workmanship. This gau was worn in the Eastern provinces of Tibet, Kampa region. Made of high grade silver, brass and coral. A leather string was tied at the back to avoid losing the lid. From the 1st half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 6,3 x 4,5 x 3,8 cm Weight: 44,5 gr Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003 “Jewellery of Tibet and the Himalayas”, Clarke, John, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 2004 HIM130
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Silver belt from India. The decorated chain is common in Madhya Pradesh, although the silver tassels are more frequently seen in South India.
The two-panel clasp has a central screw forming a hinge.
From the first half of the 20th century.
Dimensions:
Total length: 79 cm
Clasp: 6,5 x 2,5 cm
Frontal tassels (with clasp): 20 cm
Weight: 276,4 gr
Literature:
“Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997
“Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005
“De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011
“Ceintures ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2004
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Silver flexible "paizebh" anklet from Uttar Pradesh, India. High-grade silver shaped in a beautiful chain. From mid-XXth Century or earlier. It can be opened easily with a pin. This kind of flexible Indian anklets look lighter and more frivolous than the rigid pieces that can be found in other regions in India, but they are usually heavier than they appear to be. Women in traditional Central India usually wear several flexible and rigid anklets on each leg at the same time. Check the post about Indian anklets here in my blog for more information. Dimensions: Length: 22,5 cm Width: 3,5 cm Weight: 134,1 gr. Literature: “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011 “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 IND1570
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High-grade silver necklace, from Sri Lanka, the clasp has beautiful decoration and it still holds some gilding. From the 19th century or early 20th century. In good condition, with some slight dents on some of the beads. Dimensions: Length: 71 cm Size of the clasp: 9 x 3,8 cm Diameter of beads: 1,9 cm SRI28
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Silver bracelets like this without enamel can also be seen in the region, but the ones with enamel are, according to Anne van Cutsem, specific to the Shan state. Although these two bracelets look very similar, they are not a pair and they are sold separately. From the 19th century. Dimensions approx.: 7,5 x 7 cm Inner diameter: 5,5-6 cm Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p.263 “Yunnan silver ornament”, Sun Helin, Yunnan people's Publishing House, p. 122 “The art of silver jewellery”, Skira, 2006, p. 160 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p.137 SEA346
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Silver bracelets like this without enamel can also be seen in the region, but the ones with enamel are, according to Anne van Cutsem, specific to the Shan state. Although these two bracelets look very similar, they are not a pair and they are sold separately. From the 19th century. Dimensions approx.: 7,5 x 7 cm Inner diameter: 5,5-6 cm Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p.263 “Yunnan silver ornament”, Sun Helin, Yunnan people's Publishing House, p. 122 “The art of silver jewellery”, Skira, 2006, p. 160 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p.137 SEA347
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Uzbek silver bracelet, most probably from Bukhara. The use of gemstones have prophylactic meaning, being turquoise favorable against evil eye and coral a symbol of life. Materials: silver, gilded silver, turquoise and coral. From the 19th century. In very good condition, no parts missing. Dimensions: Inner diameter: 5,7 cm. The bracelet can be opened with a pin. Width: 3 cm Weight: 59,5 cm Literature: “Il corallo. Nell'ornamento dell'Asia islamica dalla Turchia all'Uzbekistan”, del Mare, Cristina-Vidale, Massimo, Electa napoli, 2001, 109 “A song in metal. Folk Art of Uzbekistan”, Abdullayev, T, Gafur Gulyam Art and Literature Publishers, Tashkent, 1986, p. 187 “Traditional jewellery from Soviet Central Asia and Kazakhstan”, Sovetsky khudozhnik Publishers, 1984, p.73 “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 155 CA184
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Big gau, made of high-grade silver, copper (back), and set with coral beads and turquoise. Excellent workmanship and good condition overall, consistent with age and wear. The central turquoise is a later replacement. This gau was worn in Tsang Province, south central Tibet as well as in Western Tibet. From the 1st half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 10 x 9,5 x 1,5 cm Weight: 130,8 gr Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003 “Jewellery of Tibet and the Himalayas”, Clarke, John, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 2004 HIM116
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This is a rare silver box. Although it looks Persian at first sight, when examined closely it seems to be from a different region. It is still Quoran box amulet , with a lid that opens, but the decoration looks maybe Middle Eastern. It also has three bails, which suggests that it is worn, not on the forearm (as Persian/Afghans ones) but probably hanging as a pendant. It could also be from Iran or Afghanistan, a different type than the ones that are more often found, or maybe from a transitional region between the Middle East and Central Asia. Material: high grade silver. An Ottoman coin is placed at the top as decoration. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier . It is in good condition, although the hinge is fragil and needs a silver wire to be functional. Provenance: French private collection. The box was sourced in Saudi Arabia in the 60s or 70s. Dimensions (with bails): 9 x 9 x 1,8 cm Weight: 97,3 gr ME254
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This is a rare silver box. Although it looks Persian at first sight, when examined closely it seems to be from a different region. It is still Quoran box amulet , with a lid that opens, but the decoration looks maybe Middle Eastern. It also has three bails, which suggests that it is worn, not on the forearm (as Persian/Afghans ones) but probably hanging as a pendant. It could also be from Iran or Afghanistan, a different type than the ones that are more often found, or maybe from a transitional region between the Middle East and Central Asia. Material: high grade silver. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier It is in good condition, although the hinge is fragil and needs a silver wire to be functional. Provenance: French private collection. The box was sourced in Saudi Arabia in the 60s or 70s. Dimensions (with bails): 9,5 x 9 x 1,8 cm Weight: 93,8 gr ME256
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Amber earplugs, worn by Burmese women from the Kachin ethnic group in the 19th century. This reddish amber, or burmite, was formerly found in deposits in the North of Burma (Myanmar). From the 19th century. Length: From 9 cm Diameter: 2 cm Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000 BIR20
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Silver and niello earrings from the Dagestan, in the Caucasus region. From the Avar people. Age: 19th century. Dimensions: Size: 6,5 x 6,8 cm Gauge: 3 mm Weight: 39,4 gr CA43
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Amber earplugs, worn by Burmese women from the Kachin ethnic group in the 19th century. This reddish amber, or burmite, was formerly found in deposits in the North of Burma (Myanmar). From the 19th century. Length: From 9 cm Diameter: 2 cm Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000 BIR21
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This is a rare silver box. Although it looks Persian at first sight, when examined closely it seems to be from a different region. It is still Quoran box amulet , with a lid that opens, but the decoration looks maybe Middle Eastern. It also has three bails, which suggests that it is worn, not on the forearm (as Persian/Afghans ones) but probably hanging as a pendant. It could also be from Iran or Afghanistan, a different type than the ones that are more often found, or maybe from a transitional region between the Middle East and Central Asia. Material: high grade silver and turquoise. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier. It is in good condition, although the hinge is fragil and needs a silver wire to be functional. Provenance: French private collection. The box was sourced in Saudi Arabia in the 60s or 70s. Dimensions (with bails): 9 x 9 x 1,8 cm Weight: 93 gr ME255
