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A six-strand necklace that is usually worn in Southern Uzbekistan in an area where ethnic Uzbek, Tajik, and Pamir live. Made of silver, coral, shell and glass beads. Date: first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Length: 88 cm Weight: 211 gr Literature: “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981 “Il corallo. Nell’ornamento dell’Asia islamica dalla Turchia all’Uzbekistan”, del Mare, Cristina- Vidale, Massimo, Electa napoli, 2001 “Kyrgyzstan. Ethnic jewellery of Central Asia”, Kadyrov, V., Rarity Firm LTD, 2007 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011 CA159
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Old silver pendant necklace, used as a lingam casket box. These pendants were designed as containers to hold a sacred lingam stone representing the god Shiva. With gold appliqué on the top of the casket. Lingayats are a Hindu group who believe that Shiva is the only deity, rather than the 3 gods revered by other Hindus. They also believed that the sacred presence of Shiva was not simply confined to the temple, but that it could be held in these pendants for a personal connection to the god. Bibliography: “Traditional Jewelry of India” by Oppi Untracht, page133. This is an original and worn piece, in excellent condition, from the 19th Century. Provenance: Ex- Michael Backman Gallery Length of the chain: 83 cm Size of pendant: 4,5 x 6,8 cm It weighs 108 gr. For more information about this fascinating pieces, please see my post on Indian lingam box caskets. IND1148
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Extraordinary “Mansouri” necklace from Yemen. This kind of work is called like this because it was made in the time of the Imam Al-Mansur Ali I (who ruled Yemen between 1775–1809) From the 18th century. In perfect condition. The two conical ends don’t belong to the same necklace. High grade silver. Provenance: Spanish private collection. Dimensions: Length: 66 cm Size of the central hirz (with dangles): 9 x 7,5 cm Literature: “Collectible beads”, Liu, Robert K., Ornament, 1995, p. 131 YEM105
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Gold pendant from Rajasthan representing Bhumiya Raj, who is a deified hero, a landed military proprietor or chieftain who died in defense of his property, including villages and their inhabitants. This type of amulet subject is worn chiefly in Western Rajasthan by Hindu Rajputs, Jats and others. From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 2,9 x 2,2 cm Reference: “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers “Indian Folk jewellery”, Ganguly, Waltraud, B.R. Publishing Corporation, 2015 IND1448
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A gold marriage pendant from South India, worn by women in Tamil Nadu and Kerala. This kind of pendants are not massive gold, they usually have a lac core. Purity of gold is 22 kt. From early 20th century or earlier. Provenance: Spanish private collection. Dimensions: Height:3,8 x 1,5 x 1,4 cm Weight: 5,47 gr. Bibliography: “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 “When gold Blossons”, Aitken, Molly Emma, Asia Society & Philip Wilson Publishers, 2004 “Dance of the peacock”, Krishnam, Usha R. Bala, India book House, 2010 “El llenguatge de la joia”, Fundació Caixa Girona, 2008 For more information about these pendants, check our post about Gold Indian talis IND1662
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Silver and coral earrings which were worn in the Western Rif area in North Morocco, according to Rouach (see literature). High-grade silver (hallmarked with the “Tête de belier”) and coral. The frontal plate of the loops is inset with colourful glass pieces, all in good condition. From the beginning of the 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: Size (each): 10,5 x 6 cm Weight: 75,6 gr Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001, p.20 “Bijoux Berbéres Au Marroc dans la tradition judeo-arab”, Rouach, David, ACR Edition, 1989, p. 62 ““Splendeurs du Marroc” Editions plume, 1998, p.219 MAR292
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Pair of earrings with chased and niello decoration of arabesques and a piece of cloisonné enamel on the front, inset with glass, whose finesse contrasts with the pre-Saharan nature of the ornament. These are typical of the Tiznit region. Due to the size and weight of the earrings they are worn as temporals and are attached to the headdress with a chain and a decorated hook. Of exceptional craftmanship, such pieces are particularly ostentatious. The earrings are in pristine condition, no pieces missing or unmatched. From early 20th century, maybe earlier. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: Length of the chain: 50 cm Each earring 15 x 10,5 cm Weight: 151,4 cm Literature: “Berber Memoires”, Draguet, Michel, Mercator fonds, Yale, 2021, p. 269-271 “Splendeurs du Marroc” Editions plume, 1998, p. 253 “Bijoux du Marroc. Du Haut Atlas à la Vallée du Draa”, Rabaté, Marie-rose et Jacques, Edisuc/Le Fennec, 1996, p. 53 MAR295
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Silver girdle with amulet box that opens with a pin. From Andhra Pradesh, India. The amulet box can be opened with a pin on one side. First half of the 20th century. Provenance: ex-Dutch private collection. Dimensions: Size of the amulet box: 5,5 x 10,5 cm Length of the chain:70 cm Weight: 134,1 gr Literature: “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p.147 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 318 IND1642
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From the 19th century or early 20th. High grade silver and very detailed decoration. Provenance: Spanish private collection. Size of the ring: 19,25 mm or US size 9 1/4 Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 98-99 “Later Islamic Jewellery”, L.A. Mayer Institute for Islamic Art, Jerusalem, 1987, p.92 YEM149
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Berber/Amazigh necklace, called tifilit from the Tiznit province. The composition is the original one, but the end of the necklace has been adapted to be used with a shell clasp. All beads and components are old. Coral, amber, amazonite, agate, shells, glass and silver. Dimensions: Length: 57 cm Diameter of the biggest amber bead: 3 cm Weight: 209,3 gr Literature: “Berber Memoires”, Draguet, Michel, Mercator fonds, Yale, 2021 “Bijoux du Marroc. Du Haut Atlas à la Vallée du Draa”, Rabaté, Marie-rose et Jacques, Edisuc/Le Fennec, 1996 “Berber women of Morocco” Fondation Yves Saint Laurent, 2014 “Amazics. Joies berebers”, IEMed, 2005 MAR58
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Silver bracelet from the Kabyle mountains in Algeria. The bracelet is mde of high grade silver, coral cabochons and enamel. From mid-20th century or earlier. Provenance: French private collection. Dimensions: Diameter: 6 cm Width: 6,3 cm Weight: 189,3 gr Literature: “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 398 “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 25 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 22 “L'argent de la lune”, Makilan, 2015, p. 89 “Abzim Parures et bijoux des femmes d'Algérie“, Tamzali, Wassyla, Enterprisse -algérienne de Presse, 1984, p. 169 ARG131
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Silver ring, with two coral beads insets, for doble protection. Rare find, in good condition. From the 19th century or early 20th. High grade silver and coral. Provenance: Spanish private collection. Size of the ring: 20 mm or US size 10 Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 98-99 “Silver treasures from the land of Sheba”, Ransom. Marjorie, The American university in Cairo Press, 2014, p.63 YEM106
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These Sumbanese bracelets, worn by men and women alike, are easily identified by its graceful form and triangle decoration with dots. Age: 19th century or older. The object has been examined by an ivory appraiser and has a certificate stating that the ivory predates 1947. In very good condition, with no chips or damages. Dimensions: Total size: 10 cm Inner diameter: 6 cm Weight: 273,7 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie d’Océanie et d’Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 294 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 206 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, werelsmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p.352 “L’or des Iles. Bijoux et ornements d’indonesie, malaisie et philippines”, Rodgers, Susan, Musée Barbier Mueller, Geneve, 1991, p. 296
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High grade silver bracelet from the Qing Dynasty. Bracelets like this were always a betrothal gift, given to the bride’s family by a middleman, together with other gifts. Age: 19th century. Dimensions: Inner diameter: 6 cm Width: 1,5 cm Literature: “Four centuries of Silver. Personal adornment in the Qing Dynasty and after”, Duda, Margaret, Times editions, Singapure, 2002, p.102 SEA296
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Old bone earplugs from the Hill tribes living in South East Asia, most probably from Laos or Vietnam. This type of ear ornaments was worn by both men and women. They have to be wear on extended earlobes holes. By the end of the Seventies it was already rare to see men and women wearing these earplugs, and nowadays they are very difficult to find. Dimensions: Length: 36 mm Bigger diameter: 21 mm Smaller diameter (at the centre): 16 mm Weight: 31,4 gr Reference: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia, America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001 SEA221
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High grade silver bracelet from the Qing Dynasty. Bracelets like this were always a betrothal gift, given to the bride’s family by a middleman, together with other gifts and a proposal card. Age: 19th century. Dimensions: Inner diameter: 6 cm Width: 1,5 cm Literature: “Four centuries of Silver. Personal adornment in the Qing Dynasty and after”, Duda, Margaret, Times editions, Singapure, 2002, p.102 SEA301
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Necklace made with filigree and granulated silver beads and phenolic resin. The silver beads are from the beginning of the 20th century or earlier, the phenolic resin beads are from the first half of the 20th c. The composition is newer. Some of the beads are worn and a small portion of the granulation is missing in a couple of them (see pictures). Provenance: German private collection From the 1st half of the 20th century (re-strung later) Materials: high grade silver (the filigree beads) low grade silver (both conical ends and chain) and phenolic resin beads) Dimensions: Total length: 58 cm Size of the phenolic beads:2,6 x 2,2 cm Diameter of silver beads: 1,8 cm Weight:144,7 gr Literature: “Silver treasures from the land of Sheba”, Ransom. Marjorie, The American university in Cairo Press, 2014
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Silver and niello earrings from the Dagestan, in the Caucasus region. From the Avar people. Age: 19th century. Dimensions: Size: 6,5 x 6,8 cm Gauge: 3 mm Weight: 39,4 gr CA43
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Big silver ornament worn on the back of the head attached to the headdress as an amulet, to protect against evil eye. Used by the Tuaregs Tel-Aïr, from Niger. It is also used as pectoral in the Hoggar region, and as temporal in certain occasions. The five triangular small pendants have also a protective meaning. One of them is missing in the central lower pendant. From the 1st half of the 20th century. Materials: Silver, leather, copper, brass, and iron on the back. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: Total height with leather cord: 54 cm Size of the biggest amulet: 13,5 x 16 cm Literature: “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009 “Bijoux tuaregs”, Burner, Jean, Éditions du Fournel, 2011, p.163-5 “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 52 “Tuaregs. Nòmades del desert“, Fundació la Caixa, 2002, p.131 WA147
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Amber earplugs, worn by Burmese women from the Kachin ethnic group in the 19th century. This reddish amber, or burmite, was formerly found in deposits in the North of Burma (Myanmar). From the 19th century. Length: From 9 cm Diameter: 2 cm Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000 BIR20
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Gold men's earrings from Rajasthan, India, called gokhru. The gokhru can be decorated with a chiseled pattern or can be covered with thorns (resembling their Himachali counterpart types, which are worn exclusively by women). This decoration imitates the ball-like blossoms of the Babul tree (Acacia Arabica) which is believed to be a favorite spirit haunt. The design with three balls can be traced back to Assyrian and Babylonian examples. From mid 20th century. Dimensions: 2,8 x 2,5 cm The earrings have a final loop that has to go through the earlobe hole, so slightly stretched earlobe holes are needed. A silver pin is included to be able to secure the earrings. Weight: 11,7 gr Literature: “Earrings. Ornamental identity and beauty in India”, Ganguly, Waltraud, B.R. Publishing Corporation, 2007 “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001 “Indian Jewellery”, Barnard, Nick, V&A publishing, timeless books, Delhi, 2008 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The Pepin Press, 2002 “The golden smile of India”, Van Gelder, Bernardette, ACC Art Books, 2018, p. 31 IND1579
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Silver bracelets like this without enamel can also be seen in the region, but the ones with enamel are, according to Anne van Cutsem, specific to the Shan state. Although these two bracelets look very similar, they are not a pair and they are sold separately. From the 19th century. Dimensions approx.: 7,5 x 7 cm Inner diameter: 5,5-6 cm Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p.263 “Yunnan silver ornament”, Sun Helin, Yunnan people's Publishing House, p. 122 “The art of silver jewellery”, Skira, 2006, p. 160 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p.137 SEA346
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Traditional old silver earplugs from the Karen tribe They are worn on extended earlobes holes. High-grade silver +800 (tested). From the 19th century. Dimensions: Gauge: 17 mm Diameter of the edge on the back side of the earring: 20 mm Diameter: 3,4 mm Both of them weigh 23 gr. Literature: “Peoples of the golden triangle”, Lewin, Paul and Elaine, River Books, Bangkok, 1998, p. 60 “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001, p. 236 SEA8
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Silver belt with a hand made chain formely used by Son Koli fishermen of the Bombay area, who wore it below the navel over the dhoti (lower garment) to hold the dhoti up. High grade silver. From the 19th century or early 20th. Provenance: German private collection. Length: 87,5 cm Weight: 157,4 gr Literature: “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 IND1647
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Old silver ring, made of high grade silver and a glass inset on top and on both sides, most probably from Afghanistan. From the first half of the 20th Century. This ring is 18,50 mm - US 8 1/4 Provenance: UK private collection. CA113
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Glass beads necklace from the Rabari people in Gujarat (India), with a central amulet in the center. Materials: low grade silver, glass beads, buttons, cowrie glass imitations. Dimensions: Length: 67 cm Size of the central amulet case: 3,5 x 3,5 cm IND1646
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Silver ring, most probably from the Sindh region in Pakistan. Anne van Cutsem mentions (see literature) that these rings come from Pashtun tribes. Glass and high-grade silver. Age: First half of the 20th century Provenance: UK private collection. The size of the ring is 18 mm - inner diameter (7 3/4 US size) . The top of the ring measures 35 x 35 mm. Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 120 CA127
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Old Kazakh silver ring from Central Asia, with very nice worn patina. The oval bezel setting is backed with red paper. High grade silver. From the 19th or early 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. Size of the ring: 18,25 mm (inner diameter) - US size 8. Literature: “Later Islamic Jewellery”, L.A. Mayer Institute for Islamic Art, Jerusalem, 1987, p. 143 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 127 CA144
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Silver earrings from the Hill Tribes, especially the Hmong ethnic minority, living in the Golden triangle in SE Asia. Very small and delicate dangles hang from them. Made of high grade +800 silver (tested). From mid-XXth Century or earlier. Miao and Hmong silver, made of outstandingly fine silver, are also notable for their clean forms. Whereas rings are very rare, we know of an incredible number of types of earrings, and variations on a single theme. According to van Cutsem, these types of earrings already become rare by the late 70's. The earrings measure - with dangles 8 cm (3,15 in). The gauge is approx. 4 mm. Both of them weigh 12 gr. Reference: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia, America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001 “The art of silver jewellery”, Skira, 2006 “Peoples of the golden triangle”, Lewin, Paul and Elaine, River Books, Bangkok SEA285
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Old silver ring from Central Asia, with inset with a carnelian gemstone. High grade silver. From early 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. Size of the ring: 18 mm (inner diameter) - US size 7 3/4. CA152
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Big silver Turkmen ring, worn by people of the Teke tribe, Central Asia. The Yuzuk ring is very simple. A large carnelian is set in a wide silver band, a thin twisted wire running around the base of the stone. The band may be decorated with a relief, sometimes a very complicated one, but the general effect is always that of monumentality and severity. High-grade silver, gilded silver and a big old carnelian bead on top. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Top of the ring: 2,5 cm Ring size: 18 mm (inner diameter) or 7 3/4 (US size) Provenance: German private collection. Literature: “Bagues ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie et d’Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p.112 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p.261 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 142 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p.127 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 251 CA147
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Yemeni ring made of high-grade silver. This kind of rings are called tower rings, and are also worn by Rashaida women. Age: 1st half of the 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: Total height of the ring: 4,5 cm Ring size: 20 mm inner diameter - US size 10 Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 120 “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984, p. 279 YEM205
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Nose ring from Himachal Pradesh in the typical bulak design, a large crescent, constructed with
very fine granulation and a coral bead. These were worn in the Septum of the nose, hanging down to or over the mouth.
From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 7,3 x 4,5 cm. Provenance: German private collection. Literature:
“Nose rings of India”, Ganguly, Waltraud, BR publishing Corporation, 2015, p. 63 HIM97 -
Pair of Afghan earrings, made of silver wire, wrapped in a spiral and granulated bottom end. Inset with what it seems to be carnelian stones on top. Accordinag to Janata (see literature) these earrings are wrongly attributed to the Kazakhs, but this type, is undoubtedly native to northern Afghanistan and fits stylistically and technically into one of the dominant Tajik styles. Early 20th century. High grade silver and carnelian. Dimensions: 6,5 x 1,5 cm Weight: 19 gr Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001, p. 85 “Schmuck in Afganisthan”, Janata, Alfred, Akademische Druck, 1981, p. 95 CA155
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Yemeni ring made of high-grade silver. This kind of rings are called tower rings, and are also worn by Rashaida women. Age: 1st half of the 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: Total height of the ring: 4,2 cm Ring size: 18,75 mm inner diameter - US size 8 3/4 Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 120 “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984, p. 279 YEM206
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South Indian Silver bracelet from Tamil Nadu, South India. Regardless the precise and rich refined decoration, this kind of bracelet belong to rural communities. From the 1st half of the 20th century. Provenance: ex-Dutch private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 10,5 x 11 x 4 cm Inner diameter: 7,5 cm Weight: 111,2 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 169 “Indian Folk jewellery”, Ganguly, Waltraud, B.R. Publishing Corporation, 2015, p.107 “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 IND1643
