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A three-strand of small bronze pendants and beads. Each of the pendants (1 cm high) has been cast by the lost wax technique. Most probably Kondh tribal culture, Orisha, India. From the 1st half of the 20th century or earlier. In the original stringing. Provenance: ex UK private collection. Length (longest strand): 78 cm Weight: 107,7 gr IND1636
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Matching pair of Turkmen bracelets. Made of silver and gilded silver. According to Anne Van Cutsem, this kind of bracelets without gemstones comes from North of Afghanistan. From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Size: 7 x 5,5 x 5,5 cm Inner diameter: 6,5 cm Width: 5,5 cm Back gap: 3,8 cm Weight: 172,7 gr References: “Bracelets ethniques”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 150 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 246 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 104 CA138
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"Hombori" stone bracelet, West Africa. Hombori is the name of a chain of mountains, and the region around. Dogon, Songhai, Fulani, Mossi, Frafra and some other groups wear this sort of bracelets. The region is rich in different stones, one of them is this kind of marble. From the 19th century or early 20th. Provenance: ex-UK private collection. Dimensions: Total diameter: 10 cm Inner diameter: 8 cm Width: 3 cm Weight: 235,4 gr Literature: “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984, pag. 120-121 “African Hats and jewellery”, Clarke, Duncan, PRC Publishing, 1998, p.43 “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 45 WA124
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Silver bracelets like this without enamel can also be seen in the region, but the ones with enamel are, according to Anne van Cutsem, specific to the Shan state. Although these two bracelets look very similar, they are not a pair and they are sold separately. From the 19th century. Dimensions approx.: 7,5 x 7 cm Inner diameter: 5,5-6 cm Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p.263 “Yunnan silver ornament”, Sun Helin, Yunnan people's Publishing House, p. 122 “The art of silver jewellery”, Skira, 2006, p. 160 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p.137 SEA347
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"Hombori" stone bracelet, West Africa. Hombori is the name of a chain of mountains, and the region around. Dogon, Songhai, Fulani, Mossi, Frafra and some other groups wear this sort of bracelets. The region is rich in different stones, one of them is this kind of marble. From the 19th century or early 20th. Provenance: ex-UK private collection. Dimensions: Total diameter: 11 cm Inner diameter: 7,5 cm Width: 2,4 cm Weight: 235,4 gr Literature: “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984, pag. 120-121 “African Hats and jewellery”, Clarke, Duncan, PRC Publishing, 1998, p.43 “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 45 WA121
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Elbow bracelet called “iwuki” or “aweyka”. It is a large ring carved in stone (or sometimes wood) worn by men above the elbow. It could be worn alone or with other similar bracelets. The stone is sourced in the Aïr desert. It fell into disuse at the end of the 20th century except for the Fulani Bororo (woodabé), who borrowed them from the Tuareg and wear it frequently, still today. Each shape has a different name. Inner diameter: 8,5 cm Literature: “Bijoux tuaregs”, Burner, Jean, Éditions du Fournel, 2011, p. 254 WA125
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High-grade silver necklace, from Sri Lanka, the clasp has beautiful decoration and it still holds some gilding. From the 19th century or early 20th century. In good condition, with some slight dents on some of the beads. Dimensions: Length: 71 cm Size of the clasp: 9 x 3,8 cm Diameter of beads: 1,9 cm SRI28
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Bronze lime container that is suspended from a waist band. Worn by Naga people. Lime is needed for the betel preparation. From the 19th century, very nice patina. Due to the accumulation of lime on the edges the container doesn’t close totally. Dimensions: 6,5 x 5,5 x 5 cm Literature: “Ceintures ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2004, p. 160 A similar example can be seen in the collection of the British Museum (London): https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/A_As1982-19-134-a-b IND1615
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Old silver Mauritanian hinged bracelet that can be fastened and unfastened easily. In very good condition. Made of high-grade silver (tested). From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: Size: diameter 9,5 cm Inner diameter: 5,5 cm Width: 2 cm Weight: 116,6 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie d’Océanie et d’Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002 “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984 “Bijoux du Marroc. Du Haut Atlas à la Vallée du Draa”, Rabaté, Marie-rose et Jacques, Edisuc/Le Fennec, 1996 MAR286
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Big silver Turkmen ring, worn by people of the Teke tribe, Central Asia. The Yuzuk ring is very simple. A large carnelian is set in a wide silver band, a thin twisted wire running around the base of the stone. The band may be decorated with a relief, sometimes a very complicated one, but the general effect is always that of monumentality and severity. High-grade silver, and a big old carnelian bead on top. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Top of the ring: 3 cm Ring size: 18,5 mm (inner diameter) or 8 1/4 (US size) Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p.112 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p.261 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 142 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p.127 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 251 CA77
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Pair of moulded and chased fibulas from Essaouira, Morocco, worn by the Ait Haha people. These fibulas were collected in the mid of the last century by a Spanish doctor living in the area. The shape is a remainder of a ram’s head, which is a very important animal since pre-historic times. From early 20th century. It is hallmarked as Essaouira 1332 (1913) and a rooster head on the back. Dimensions: 13 x 8,5 cm Weight: 97,1 gr Literature: “Bijoux Berbéres Au Marroc dans la tradition judeo-arab”, Rouach, David, ACR Edition, 1989, p. 110 “Les fibules, deux mille ans en Afrique du N”, Rabaté. Marie-Rose, ACR Edition, 2013, p. 183 “Berber Memoires”, Draguet, Michel, Mercator fonds, Yale, 2021, p. 117 ss “Bijoux du Marroc. Du Haut Atlas à la Vallée du Draa”, Rabaté, Marie-rose et Jacques, Edisuc/Le Fennec, 1996, p. 163 MAR271
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Silver belt from India. The decorated chain is common in Madhya Pradesh, although the silver tassels are more frequently seen in South India.
The two-panel clasp has a central screw forming a hinge.
From the first half of the 20th century.
Dimensions:
Total length: 79 cm
Clasp: 6,5 x 2,5 cm
Frontal tassels (with clasp): 20 cm
Weight: 276,4 gr
Literature:
“Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997
“Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005
“De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011
“Ceintures ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2004
IND1626 -
Rare Makara bracelets, from India.
From the 19th century.
Dimensions:
Total diameter: 8 cm
Inner diameter: 5,5 cm
Weight (combined): 119,5 gr
IND1623
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A magnificent men’s ceremonial belt from the Caucasus. Made of 38 interlocking parts cast in the highest grade sliver. Each individual part is furnished with a hallmark on its smooth back. All the small parts are attached to a leather band preserving thereby the flexibility of the heavy silver girdle. All segments have a tender raised leaf-side, on the upper rim of which arranged in dense rows are double volutes. The lower edge is decorated with black Niello. High grade silver, hallmarked, niello and some remains of gilding. Dimensions: Length:79 cm Width: 4,5 cm Weight: 787,3 gr Literature: “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, p.112 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009 “Remnants of the past-Collection of Lousick Agouletsi”, Tigran mets, 2010 CA40
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Amber earplugs, worn by Burmese women from the Kachin ethnic group in the 19th century. This reddish amber, or burmite, was formerly found in deposits in the North of Burma (Myanmar). From the 19th century. Length: From 9 cm Diameter: 2 cm Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000 BIR21
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Old silver Rashaïda bracelet, finely decorated. This type of bracelets can be found in Ethiopia, Yemen, and Sudan, and were used in the upper part of the arm. From the first half 20th Century or earlier. High-grade silver (tested). Dimensions: Total diameter: 14 cm Inner diameter: 7 cm Width: 2,7 cm Weight: 215,8 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002 “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984 “Silver treasures from the land of Sheba”, Ransom. Marjorie, The American university in Cairo Press, 2014 ME181
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This is a 46-strand necklace of red glass Naga trade beads, all strung together and fastened with an old Indian coin. From 1st half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 55 cm Weight: 245 gr Literature: “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 57 “The Naga”, Jacobs, Julian, Edition Hansjörg Mayer, 2012, p. 314 “Arte Naga”, Museo Nacional de Etnologia, Madrid, 1988, p. 37 IND1624
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Old silver earrings from one of the Hill tribes inhabiting the Golden triangle in SE Asia - border of Laos, Thailand and Myanmar, most probably from the Lahu people. They have to be worn on extended earlobes holes. The top ring tested for high-grade silver (+800), the dangles are made of low-grade silver. From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Height: 12,5 cm Width: 4 cm Weight: 36 gr Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001 “The art of silver jewellery”, Skira, 2006 “Peoples of the golden triangle”, Lewin, Paul and Elaine, River Books, Bangkok, 1998 SEA282
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Silver bazuband amulet from India, which is used tied on the forearm. It represents an unusual iconography from Hindu mythology. High-grade silver. From the 1st half of the 20th century. Dimensions:8 x 4,5 cm Weight: 20 gr IND1610
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Unusual matching pair of old silver bracelets, from Rajasthan, in India. High-grade silver. Etched decoration with dots and fish. From mid 20th century. In Rajasthan, women wear bracelets always in pairs, one on each arm. Dimensions: The inner diameter is approx. 65 mm The back opening is 40 mm wide Thickness: 17 mm Weight (both): 257 gr IND1330
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Old tribal ring, worn in the African Sahel, in Mali and Niger by the Soninke or Sarakole people, also worn by the Fulani or Peul people and the Tuareg from the south. The silver has a beautiful patina. From the first half of the 20th century. This is a heavy example, made with a massive silver piece with engravings and copper inlay (on top). The ring size is 7 1/4 (American size) - 17,5 mm diameter. The top measures (diameter) 2,5 cm It weighs 28,7 gr. Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000 WA105
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Silver ring from India, with a foil-backed clear-glass “stone”. Glass and high-grade silver. Age: mid-20th century Dimensions: Top of the ring: 4,9 cm Ring size: 19,75 mm inner diameter or US size 9 3/4 Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000 IND1607
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Old Afghan silver ring, with an ancient glass inset. From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: Total length: 4 cm Size: 18,75 mm inner diameter (US size: 8 3/4) CA30
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Old Yemeni ring made of high-grade silver and probably a red synthetic material, decorated with filigree and granulation. The whole ring has an old and worn patina. Rings with coral and carnelian were and are very popular in the area, as the color red has a protective meaning all around this region. If coral or carnelian is not available, red glass Work for the same purpose. From the first half of the 20th Century. The "stone" might be a later replacement. The size of the ring is 18 mm (inner diameter) – US size 7 3/4. Weight: 11 gr. References: “Bagues ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie et d’Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000 “Silver treasures from the land of Sheba”, Ransom. Marjorie, The american university in Cairo Press, 2014 YEM137
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Solid bracelet, made of high-grade silver (tested). From Sindh region in Pakistan. From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Size: 9,5 x 7,5 cm Inner diameter: 6 cm Weight: 132,6 gr Literature: “Schmuck in Afganisthan”, Janata, Alfred, Akademische Druck, 1981 CA21
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Metal hair pins, called “Sipna”, usually made of aluminium. According to Anne van Cutsem (see literature) these hairpins are from Arunachal Pradesh, India. The catalog of the Tribal Museum of Bhubaneswar (Odisha) states that Sipna are worn by the Dongria Kondh women of Chatikona in the Rayagada district. This scissor-shaped, aluminium hairpin is crafted by the Gasi artisans through lost wax process. Dongria Kondh women use it by decorating their bun during marriages and festive occasions. Late 19th or early 20th century. Dimensions: Big sipna: 15 x 12 cm Small sipna: 12 x 6,5 cm Literature: “Parures de tête ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie d’Océanie et d’Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005 IND1604-5
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Old Silver belt from Karnataka, India. A central belt buckle is attached to four thick braided chains with rossettes. Belts are worn by women over the sari. Two mythological animals are depicted here: the holy cow Kamdhenu and the elephant Airavati. Both bring happiness. High-grade silver. From 1st half of 20th Century. The buckle can be opened with a screw. Dimensions: The length of the belt is 83,5 cm Medallions diameter: 2,5 cm Size of the buckle: 13 x 5,5 cm Weight: 315 gr Literature: “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005 “Indian Folk jewellery” Ganguly, Waltraud, B.R. Publishing Corporation, 2015 IND1141
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Silver tribal guard bangle with silver spheres perimeters. These sort of tribal bracelets are worn by Dangee and Patel tribal people of Rajasthan, sometimes on the wrist or just above the elbow. One quarter-hinged part can be opened by a central pin. Very good silver content, with a great patina. From 1st to half 20th Century. Dimensions: Total diameter: 10 cm Inner diameter: 7,2 cm Inner perimeter: 19,7 cm round It weighs 91 gr. IND1040 Literature: ” Traditional jewelry of India” by Oppi Untractht.
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Silver tribal guard bangle with silver spheres perimeters. These sort of tribal bracelets are worn by Dangee and Patel tribal people of Rajasthan, sometimes on the wrist or just above the elbow. One quarter-hinged part can be opened by a central pin. Very good silver content, with a great patina. From 1st to half 20th Century. Dimensions: Total diameter: 11 cm Inner diameter: 6,5 cm The inner perimeter of the bracelet is 20,5 cm round It weighs 86,8 gr. IND1324 Literature: ” Traditional jewelry of India” by Oppi Untractht.
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Pair of silver flexible “paizebh” anklets from India. High-grade silver. From mid-XXth Century. They can be opened easily with a pin. This kind of flexible Indian anklets look lighter and more frivolous than the rigid pieces that can be found in other regions in India, but they are usually heavier than they appear to be. Women in traditional Central India usually wear several flexible and rigid anklets on each leg at the same time. Check the post about Indian anklets in my blog for more information The anklets are 26,5 cm long. They both weigh 75 gr. Literature: “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 “Rajasthan's silver jewellery”, Pandey, Tripti, Rupa &co,, New Delhi, 2003 IND1572
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Pair of silver flexible “paizebh” anklets from India. High-grade silver. From mid-XXth Century. They can be opened easily with a pin. This kind of flexible Indian anklets look lighter and more frivolous than the rigid pieces that can be found in other regions in India, but they are usually heavier than they appear to be. Women in traditional Central India usually wear several flexible and rigid anklets on each leg at the same time. Check the post about Indian anklets in my blog for more information. Dimensions: Length: 27,5 cm Width (with dangles): 1,2 cm Combined weight: 94,5 gr. Literature: “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 “Rajasthan's silver jewellery”, Pandey, Tripti, Rupa &co,, New Delhi, 2003 IND1578
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Pair of silver flexible “paizebh” anklets from India. High-grade silver. From mid-XXth Century. They can be opened easily with a pin. This kind of flexible Indian anklets look lighter and more frivolous than the rigid pieces that can be found in other regions in India, but they are usually heavier than they appear to be. Women in traditional Central India usually wear several flexible and rigid anklets on each leg at the same time. Check the post about Indian anklets in my blog for more information. Dimensions: Length: 30,5 cm Width (with dangles): 1,7 cm Combined weight: 98,5 gr. Literature: “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 “Rajasthan's silver jewellery”, Pandey, Tripti, Rupa &co,, New Delhi, 2003 IND1577
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Silver earrings from Himachal Pradesh (India), called "Kantaie" . They were hung in groups of 7, 9 or 11 per ear or side of the head in a piece of cloth, fixed above the ear in the hair, giving the impression of earrings. There's a picture of how they were used in Untracht, ill. 240. High-grade silver. They are from the end of the XIX century or beginning of the XXth Dimensions: Diameter: 9 cm Combined weight: 99 gr. Literature: “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 “Earrings. Ornamental identity and beauty in India”, Ganguly, Waltraud, B.R. Publishing Corporation, 2007 IND482
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Old ethnic silver earrings from the Hill Tribes, especially the Hmong ethnic minority, living in the Golden triangle in SE Asia. Made of high grade +800 silver (tested). From mid-XXth Century. Miao silver, made of outstandingly fine silver, are also notable for their clean forms. Whereas rings are very rare, we know of an incredible number of types of earrings, and variations on a single theme. According to van Cutsem, these types of earrings already become rare by the late 70's. The earrings measure 3,5 cm. The gauge is approx. 3 mm. Both of them weigh 9 gr. Reference: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia, America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001 “The art of silver jewellery”, Skira, 2006 “Peoples of the golden triangle”, Lewin, Paul and Elaine, River Books, Bangkok SEA196
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Pair of silver flexible “paizebh” anklets from India. High-grade silver shaped in a beautiful chain. From the first half of the XXth Century. They can be opened easily with a pin. This kind of flexible Indian anklets look lighter and more frivolous than the rigid pieces that can be found in other regions in India, but they are usually heavier than they appear to be. Women in traditional Central India usually wear several flexible and rigid anklets on each leg at the same time. Check the post about Indian anklets in my blog for more information. Dimensions: Length: 28 cm Width: 3 cm Combined weight: 227,6 gr. Literature: “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 “Rajasthan's silver jewellery”, Pandey, Tripti, Rupa &co,, New Delhi, 2003 IND1571
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Silver flexible "paizebh" anklet from Uttar Pradesh, India. High-grade silver shaped in a beautiful chain. From mid-XXth Century or earlier. It can be opened easily with a pin. This kind of flexible Indian anklets look lighter and more frivolous than the rigid pieces that can be found in other regions in India, but they are usually heavier than they appear to be. Women in traditional Central India usually wear several flexible and rigid anklets on each leg at the same time. Check the post about Indian anklets here in my blog for more information. Dimensions: Length: 22,5 cm Width: 3,5 cm Weight: 134,1 gr. Literature: “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011 “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 IND1570
