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Beaded pectoral called hapamat , worn by Kungrat Uzbek women, Central Asia. Women of these Uzbek group make themselves beaded ornaments, that are meant to be protective against evil eye. Unlike other ethnic groups of Central Asia that use silver or gold to make their ornaments, the Kungrats prefer beads to adorn themselves. Materials: Glass beads, metal ornaments, mother of pearl buttons, cowries and cotton thread. From the 60s' of 20th century. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Pectoral:29 x 21 cm Length of the doble beaded strand to fasten it: 38 cm Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 205 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p. 259 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 110 CA202
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Beaded pectoral called hapamat , worn by Kungrat Uzbek women, Central Asia. Women of these Uzbek group make themselves beaded ornaments, that are meant to be protective against evil eye. Unlike other ethnic groups of Central Asia that use silver or gold to make their ornaments, the Kungrats prefer beads to adorn themselves. Materials: Glass beads, metal ornaments, mother of pearl buttons, cowries and cotton thread. From the 60s' of 20th century. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: 34 x 28 cm Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 205 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p. 259 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 110 CA203
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Hair pin from Sumba, Indonesia Material: Tortoiseshell From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: 14 x 6,5 cm Literature: INDO42
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A broad war helmet frontlet shaped from hammered brass known as a tap lavong kayo from Kayanic Dayak, eastern Kalimantan, Borneo, Indonesia.
Material: bronze.
From the first half of the 20th century.
The frontlet is folded gently backwards at the midsection to accommodate the curvature of the helmet and features projecting tendrils that flank a highly stylized visage. Scholars posit that these figures represent protective guardian spirits or perhaps spirits of ancestral figures who protect the warriors during each instance of combat.
Provenance: European private collection
Dimensions:
Only the helmet frontlet: 19,5 x 13 cm
Literature:
“Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 152 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 279, 324 “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 211 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 222INDO107
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Big silver men's ring from Tibet. It is called Saddle ring because of the shape similar to a horse saddle. Made of high grade silver, coral and turquoise. From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Provenance: UK private collection. Dimensions: Top of the ring: 2,7 cm Ring size: Adjustable, 9 - 19 mm (inner diameter) Weight: 25 gr Literature: “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 124 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 291 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p.173 “Jewellery of Tibet and the Himalayas”, Clarke, John, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 2004, p. 25 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 155 HIM136
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South Sumatran comb used as part of the wedding cerimonial jewellery, together with other pieces (Indonesia). These filigree combs are found in Lampung and are usually referred to as Lampung combs, it appears that they were manufactured n West Sumatra by the Minangkabau who excelled in this work. The filigree and granulated decoration confirm de Islamic influence on the Sumatran coasts. Materials: gilded silver, silver. From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 13,5 x 6 cm Weight: 69,4 gr Literature: “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 280 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 125 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, wereldmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p. 273 INDO155
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Pubic ornament for boys, which was worn around the waist. From Sumbawa, Indonesia. High grade silver, decorated with filigree and granulation. From the 19th century. Dimensions: Ornament(with round beads): 7,5 x 5,5 cm Height with base: 20,5 cm Weight: 16,2 gr Literature: “Sieraden, en lichaamsversiering uit Indonesië”, Wassing, Rita, Museum Nusantara, 1984, p.116 INDO133
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Head ornament worn by chamans from Krui people (South Sumatra) or from Siberut Island, Mentawai archipielago (Indonesia). Materials: wood, cotton, glass beads, cauris, shell, paper seeds. The suspended objects are considered to have magic powers. First half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 20 x 20 x 18 cm Literature: “Le Monde en Tete”, Seuil, 2019, p. 190 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 186 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 101 “Voyage dans ma tête”, fage éditions, 2010, p. 152 INDO131
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Old Tekke ring, made of high grade silver and fire gilded silver. The whole ring has an old and worn patina. From the Turkoman people, Central Asia. From the first half of the 20th century. Provenance: UK private collection. Size (inner mm): 19,25 mm - US size is 9 1/4 Weight: 8,7 gr Literature: “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 127 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 251 “Bagues ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie et d’Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 112 CA241
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Rare Minangkabau necklace,from West Sumatra, Indonesia. The necklace is made of high grade silver (gilded). While the oval filigree pendants with a central flower might suggest the stylized lotus, they are also typical of the star forms used in the Islamic design protocols of the Ottoman Empire, the Middle East and elsewhere. Late 19th century pictures show women of Solok wearing similar necklaces and it is likely that they were either made in nearby Padang on the coast or asembled there from filigree elements sent down by numerous silversmiths working in the Agam hills. The Central pendant is the biggest, and the rest have decreasing sizes. From the 19th or early 20th century. Dimensions: Length: 50 cm Size of central pendant with dangles: 6,5 x 3,5 cm Weight: 73,6 gr Literature: “Gold Jewellery of the Indonesian Archipelago”. Anne Richter, Bruce W. Carpenter, ed.Didier Millet, 2011, p.286 INDO136
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Yemeni ring made of high-grade silver. This kind of rings are called tower rings, and are also worn by Rashaida women. Age: 1st half of the 20th century. Provenance: UK private collection. Dimensions: Total height of the ring: 4,5 cm Ring size: 18 mm inner diameter - US size 7 3/4 Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 120 “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984, p. 279 ME267
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Turkoman woman’s ear pendant called “tenetschir”, generally attached to a headdress, not to the ears. From the Tekke people from the oasis of Merv and Salor people from the oasis of Serachs. Materials: high-grade silver, fire-gilded silver and carnelians in table cut. From the 19th or first quarter of the 20th century. Provenance: UK private collection Dimensions: 20 x 6 cm Weight: 86 gr Literature: “Old silver jewellery of the Turkoman”, Schletzer, Dietrich Reimer Verlag, 1984, p. 184.5 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 134 “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001. p. 81 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 96 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011, p. 134 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 354 CA208
