-
Gilded silver Karo Batak ring called Tapak gajah, from Sumatra, Indonesia. This type of ring was made on instructions from a guru or religious specialist, and was worn as a method of treatment. Additional magic substances were often inserted on the inside of the bezel. The Batak interprered illness as proof that their living soul had temporarily lost direct contact with its person. Through such a ring and the medicine of a guru the soul could be persuaded to stay close to the patient, who would quickly recover from his or her illness. The outside of the ring is decorated with lavish filigree, twisted wires and granulations. From the 19th or early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection Dimensions: Top of the ring: 1,5 x 1,2 cm Ring size: US 9 - 19 mm inner diameter Literature: “Bagues ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie et d’Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 177 “Gold Silver and Brass, jewellery of the Batak”, Sibeth, Achim, 5 Continents Editions, 2012. p. 118 “Power and gold: jewelry from Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines”, Rodgers, Susan, Presteg Verlag, Geneve, 1988, p. 279 INDO98 -
Silver necklace from the Greater Kabilia in Algeria. These sort of necklaces, called “Azrar”, were given to women as wedding dowry. They were then use on especial celebrations and festivals. Materials: high grade silver, coral and enamel. From the first half of the 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. The necklace has 21 charm pendants in different shapes, also old French silver coins. Some of the pendants were enamel in blue, green and yellow. These colors and the enamel technique used on them are typical of Berber jewelry from the mountainous kabylie, especially from Beni Yenni. A red coral bead was inset on mostly all pendants, to protect the wearer from evil eye and illness. The necklace is shown in its original condition, and hasn’t been clean or repaired. Dimensions: Length: 46 cm Size of bigger pendants: Between 3,2 cm Weight: 153,3 gr It is fastened with a hook. Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 36 “Abzim Parures et bijoux des femmes d'Algérie“, Tamzali, Wassyla, Enterprisse -algérienne de Presse, 1984, p. 164 “Bijoux berbères d'Algérie”, Camps-Fabrer, Edisud, 1990, p. 94 “L'argent de la lune”, Makilan, 2015, p. 97-99 “El llenguatge de la joia”, Fundació Caixa Girona, 2008, p. 116 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 20 ARG130 -
Vintage Zuni silver and turquoise bracelet, from the Zuni people inhabiting New México (USA). Age:20th century Made of high grade silver and turquoise. Dimensions: Total size: 7 x 5,8 x 2 cm Inner size: 6,3 cm Weight: 56,9 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 321 “Indian silver jewelry of the Southwest 1868-1930”, Frank. Larry, Schiffer, 1990 “Turquoise”, Mark P. Block, Schiffer, 2017 “North American Indian jewelry and adornment”, Sherr Dubin, Lois, Harry N. Abrams, 1999 AME13 -
Heavy silver bracelet called musammat from Al-Dhahiyy in the Nothern Tihama Coastal Plain, Yemen. They are also worn in Southern Saudi Arabia. The central medallion was made with a M. Theresia Thaler (see pictures) with apliqué decoration. this kind of bracelet is worn on the upper part of the lower arm. From the first half of the XXth Century or earlier. High grade silver (+800), tested. Dimensions: Inner diameter: 6,5 cm Total diameter: 9,5 cm Width (medallion): 4,2 cm It weighs 380,7 gr. Reference: "Silver treasures of the land of Sheba" Marjorie Ransom, p. 139 “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 140 “Shine and Mistery, the splendor and power of Oriental jewelry”, Hoesli, Peter, Knayf-Museum Iphofen, 2023, p. 41 ME242 -
A six-strand necklace that is usually worn in Southern Uzbekistan in an area where ethnic Uzbek, Tajik, and Pamir live. Made of silver, coral, shell and glass beads. Date: first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Length: 92 cm Central pendant with dangles: 11,5 x 5,7 cm Weight: 262,1 gr Literature: “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981 “Il corallo. Nell’ornamento dell’Asia islamica dalla Turchia all’Uzbekistan”, del Mare, Cristina- Vidale, Massimo, Electa napoli, 2001 “Kyrgyzstan. Ethnic jewellery of Central Asia”, Kadyrov, V., Rarity Firm LTD, 2007 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011 CA172 -
Rare silver and coral necklace from Uzbekistan, most probably from the Khorezm area. First half of the 20th century. Material: coral beads, silver, glass beads and Ottoman and Russian coins. The Ottoman or Uzbek coins are old and worn, one of them is dated in 1279 (1858 CE, the other ones are worn off and it is not possible to see the date. The Russian coins are dated between 1922 and 1929. Dimensions: Length: 62 cm Size of the bigger Russian coins: 2,7 cm (diameter) Weight: 162 gr Literature: “Kyrgyzstan. Ethnic jewellery of Central Asia”, Kadyrov, V., Rarity Firm LTD, 2007, p. 21 “Il corallo. Nell'ornamento dell'Asia islamica dalla Turchia all'Uzbekistan”, del Mare, Cristina-Vidale, Massimo, Electa napoli, 2001, p. 92 CA170 -
Ottoman silver head or pectoral ornament, most probably from the Balkans region. The two ends have a hook on the back and a bail. Both pieces and the central hook were cast in a mold and gilded (two of the hooks are missing). The coins are dated 1223 of the Islamic calendar (1801 in our calendar). It is a complete piece, if very good condition, no coins missing. Material: high grade silver and glass beads. Dimensions: Length of the shorter chain: 60 cm Length of longer chain: 82 cm Weight: 403,4 gr ME227 -
Necklace worn by Dayak Kelabit women in Borneo, Indonesia. Beads are valued by all the Borneo's tribes. Dayak families of the upper class own a certain number of old beads which formed an important part of a family’s prestige and wealth, and were one of the principal forms of currency. Materials: Carnelian, metal, glass beads and feline or bear teeth. Glass beads were for years imported and traded from India, China and Europe. The yellow doughnut beads and the rosette decorated beads have considerable ritual value. Age: The necklace is made with beads of different ages, some of them could be a couple of hundred years old or more, other glass beads are from the 19th and 20th century. The majority of the heirloom glass beads in Kalimantan are most probably from the 17th-19th c, when trade with Europe was at his height. Dimensions: Total length: 80 cm Central tassel of beads: 7 cm Literature: "Heirloom beads among the Dayak of Borneo", Campbell, Barbie, BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers 34 (2022) "Beads of Borneo", Munan, Heidi, Editions Didier Millet, 2005, p. 58-59 "Beads in Indonesia" Adhyatman, Sumarah - Arifin, Redjeki, Penerbit Djambatan, 1993, p. 94 “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 343 INDO70 -
Silver woman’s Qu’ran holder “muskalik” in a triangular shape, decorated with filigree and a turquoise gemstone, opening lid on top, and coins at the bottom and worn over the shoulder on a long chain. from Syria or Southern Anatolia. Late 19th century,or later 20th. The coins are a later addition to the pendant, which probably had a diferent kind of dangles. Coins are dated 1223 and 1255 of the Islamic calendar, which corresponds to 1801 and 1833. This kind of amulet was an export item made in various smithing centers of the core of the ottoman world (Istanbul, Damascus, Sarajevo…) following a popular trend and fashion from the second half of the 19th century. Material: High grade silver (coins), low grade silver and turquoise. Dimensions: Size of the amulet with coins: 12 x 10 cm Lenght of the chain (approx): 66 cm Literature: “The arts and crafts of Syria”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1992, p. 98 ME225 -
Silver woman’s Qu’ran holder in a rectangular shape, decorated with filigree, glass beads and 2 coral beads on the sides. It has an opening lid on top, and coins at the bottom, which are the original dangles of this piece. From Syria, probably from Deir ez Zor. Late 19th century or beginning of the 20th.Coins are dated 1293 of the Islamic calendar, which corresponds to 1871 of our calendar. Some of the small blue glass beads are missing. Material: High grade silver (coins), low grade silver, coral, glass beads. Dimensions: Size of the amulet with coins: 9,5 x 10 cm Lenght of the chain (approx): 80 cm Literature: “The arts and crafts of Syria”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1992, p. 98 ME229 -
A two-strand of bronze beads. Each of the them has been cast by the lost wax technique. Most probably Kondh tribal culture, Orisha, India. From the 1st half of the 20th century or earlier. In the original stringing. Provenance: Italian private collection. Length (longest strand): 74 cm Weight: 191,9 gr IND1666 -
Old silver pendant necklace, used as a lingam casket box. These pendants were designed as containers to hold a sacred lingam stone representing the god Shiva. With gold appliqué on the top of the casket. Lingayats are a Hindu group who believe that Shiva is the only deity, rather than the 3 gods revered by other Hindus. They also believed that the sacred presence of Shiva was not simply confined to the temple, but that it could be held in these pendants for a personal connection to the god. Bibliography: “Traditional Jewelry of India” by Oppi Untracht, page133. This is an original and worn piece, in excellent condition, from the 19th Century. Provenance: Ex- Michael Backman Gallery Length of the chain: 83 cm Size of pendant: 5,2 x 6,2 cm It weighs 98 gr. For more information about this fascinating pieces, please see my post on Indian lingam box caskets. IND1152 -
Fulani (Peul) necklace, made with very old carnelian round beads, old Czech glass beads and skunk old Venetian glass beads. This type of necklaces is valued by many of the Fulani groups, and women wear several strands at the same time. Carnelian is believed to ease menstrual pains and help cure sicknesses of the blood. The carnelian arriving for centuries to the West African cultures came from the mines in Gujarat, India, first through the Arab trade boats and then by caravan crossing Africa from East to West. Dimensions: Length: 80 cm The round carnelian beads measure 1 cm. Weight: 152,9 gr. Literature: “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984, p. 169 WA166 -
Old silver pendant necklace, used as a lingam casket box. These pendants were designed as containers to hold a sacred lingam stone representing the god Shiva. With gold appliqué on the top of the casket. Lingayats are a Hindu group who believe that Shiva is the only deity, rather than the 3 gods revered by other Hindus. They also believed that the sacred presence of Shiva was not simply confined to the temple, but that it could be held in these pendants for a personal connection to the god. Bibliography: “Traditional Jewelry of India” by Oppi Untracht, page133. This is an original and worn piece, in excellent condition, from the 19th Century. Provenance: Ex- Michael Backman Gallery Length of the chain: 83 cm Size of pendant: 4,5 x 6,8 cm It weighs 108 gr. For more information about this fascinating pieces, please see my post on Indian lingam box caskets. IND1148 -
Extraordinary “Mansouri” necklace from Yemen. This kind of work is called like this because it was made in the time of the Imam Al-Mansur Ali I (who ruled Yemen between 1775–1809) From the 18th century. In perfect condition. The two conical ends don’t belong to the same necklace. High grade silver. Provenance: Spanish private collection. Dimensions: Length: 66 cm Size of the central hirz (with dangles): 9 x 7,5 cm Literature: “Collectible beads”, Liu, Robert K., Ornament, 1995, p. 131 YEM105 -
Gold pendant from Rajasthan representing Bhumiya Raj, who is a deified hero, a landed military proprietor or chieftain who died in defense of his property, including villages and their inhabitants. This type of amulet subject is worn chiefly in Western Rajasthan by Hindu Rajputs, Jats and others. From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 2,9 x 2,2 cm Reference: “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers “Indian Folk jewellery”, Ganguly, Waltraud, B.R. Publishing Corporation, 2015 IND1448 -
A gold marriage pendant from South India, worn by women in Tamil Nadu and Kerala. This kind of pendants are not massive gold, they usually have a lac core. Purity of gold is 22 kt. From early 20th century or earlier. Provenance: Spanish private collection. Dimensions: Height:3,8 x 1,5 x 1,4 cm Weight: 5,47 gr. Bibliography: “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 “When gold Blossons”, Aitken, Molly Emma, Asia Society & Philip Wilson Publishers, 2004 “Dance of the peacock”, Krishnam, Usha R. Bala, India book House, 2010 “El llenguatge de la joia”, Fundació Caixa Girona, 2008 For more information about these pendants, check our post about Gold Indian talis IND1662 -
Silver and coral earrings which were worn in the Western Rif area in North Morocco, according to Rouach (see literature). High-grade silver (hallmarked with the “Tête de belier”) and coral. The frontal plate of the loops is inset with colourful glass pieces, all in good condition. From the beginning of the 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: Size (each): 10,5 x 6 cm Weight: 75,6 gr Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001, p.20 “Bijoux Berbéres Au Marroc dans la tradition judeo-arab”, Rouach, David, ACR Edition, 1989, p. 62 ““Splendeurs du Marroc” Editions plume, 1998, p.219 MAR292 -
Pair of earrings with chased and niello decoration of arabesques and a piece of cloisonné enamel on the front, inset with glass, whose finesse contrasts with the pre-Saharan nature of the ornament. These are typical of the Tiznit region. Due to the size and weight of the earrings they are worn as temporals and are attached to the headdress with a chain and a decorated hook. Of exceptional craftmanship, such pieces are particularly ostentatious. The earrings are in pristine condition, no pieces missing or unmatched. From early 20th century, maybe earlier. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: Length of the chain: 50 cm Each earring 15 x 10,5 cm Weight: 151,4 cm Literature: “Berber Memoires”, Draguet, Michel, Mercator fonds, Yale, 2021, p. 269-271 “Splendeurs du Marroc” Editions plume, 1998, p. 253 “Bijoux du Marroc. Du Haut Atlas à la Vallée du Draa”, Rabaté, Marie-rose et Jacques, Edisuc/Le Fennec, 1996, p. 53 MAR295 -
From the 19th century or early 20th. High grade silver and very detailed decoration. Provenance: Spanish private collection. Size of the ring: 19,25 mm or US size 9 1/4 Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 98-99 “Later Islamic Jewellery”, L.A. Mayer Institute for Islamic Art, Jerusalem, 1987, p.92 YEM149 -
Berber/Amazigh necklace, called tifilit from the Tiznit province. The composition is the original one, but the end of the necklace has been adapted to be used with a shell clasp. All beads and components are old. Coral, amber, amazonite, agate, shells, glass and silver. Dimensions: Length: 57 cm Diameter of the biggest amber bead: 3 cm Weight: 209,3 gr Literature: “Berber Memoires”, Draguet, Michel, Mercator fonds, Yale, 2021 “Bijoux du Marroc. Du Haut Atlas à la Vallée du Draa”, Rabaté, Marie-rose et Jacques, Edisuc/Le Fennec, 1996 “Berber women of Morocco” Fondation Yves Saint Laurent, 2014 “Amazics. Joies berebers”, IEMed, 2005 MAR58 -
Silver bracelet from the Kabyle mountains in Algeria. The bracelet is made of high grade silver, coral cabochons and enamel. From mid-20th century or earlier. Provenance: French private collection. Dimensions: Diameter: 6 cm Width: 6,3 cm Weight: 189,3 gr Literature: “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 398 “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 25 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 22 “L'argent de la lune”, Makilan, 2015, p. 89 “Abzim Parures et bijoux des femmes d'Algérie“, Tamzali, Wassyla, Enterprisse -algérienne de Presse, 1984, p. 169 ARG131 -
Silver ring, with two coral beads insets, for doble protection. Rare find, in good condition. From the 19th century or early 20th. High grade silver and coral. Provenance: Spanish private collection. Size of the ring: 20 mm or US size 10 Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 98-99 “Silver treasures from the land of Sheba”, Ransom. Marjorie, The American university in Cairo Press, 2014, p.63 YEM106 -
High grade silver bracelet from the Qing Dynasty. Bracelets like this were always a betrothal gift, given to the bride’s family by a middleman, together with other gifts. Age: 19th century. Dimensions: Inner diameter: 6 cm Width: 1,5 cm Literature: “Four centuries of Silver. Personal adornment in the Qing Dynasty and after”, Duda, Margaret, Times editions, Singapure, 2002, p.102 SEA296
