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Glass beads necklace from the Rabari people in Gujarat (India), with a central amulet in the center. Materials: low grade silver, glass beads, buttons, cowrie glass imitations. Dimensions: Length: 67 cm Size of the central amulet case: 3,5 x 3,5 cm IND1646
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Silver ring, most probably from the Sindh region in Pakistan. Anne van Cutsem mentions (see literature) that these rings come from Pashtun tribes. Glass and high-grade silver. Age: First half of the 20th century Provenance: UK private collection. The size of the ring is 18 mm - inner diameter (7 3/4 US size) . The top of the ring measures 35 x 35 mm. Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 120 CA127
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Old Kazakh silver ring from Central Asia, with very nice worn patina. The oval bezel setting is backed with red paper. High grade silver. From the 19th or early 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. Size of the ring: 18,25 mm (inner diameter) - US size 8. Literature: “Later Islamic Jewellery”, L.A. Mayer Institute for Islamic Art, Jerusalem, 1987, p. 143 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 127 CA144
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Silver earrings from the Hill Tribes, especially the Hmong ethnic minority, living in the Golden triangle in SE Asia. Very small and delicate dangles hang from them. Made of high grade +800 silver (tested). From mid-XXth Century or earlier. Miao and Hmong silver, made of outstandingly fine silver, are also notable for their clean forms. Whereas rings are very rare, we know of an incredible number of types of earrings, and variations on a single theme. According to van Cutsem, these types of earrings already become rare by the late 70's. The earrings measure - with dangles 8 cm (3,15 in). The gauge is approx. 4 mm. Both of them weigh 12 gr. Reference: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia, America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001 “The art of silver jewellery”, Skira, 2006 “Peoples of the golden triangle”, Lewin, Paul and Elaine, River Books, Bangkok SEA285
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Old silver ring from Central Asia, with inset with a carnelian gemstone. High grade silver. From early 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. Size of the ring: 18 mm (inner diameter) - US size 7 3/4. CA152
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Big silver Turkmen ring, worn by people of the Teke tribe, Central Asia. The Yuzuk ring is very simple. A large carnelian is set in a wide silver band, a thin twisted wire running around the base of the stone. The band may be decorated with a relief, sometimes a very complicated one, but the general effect is always that of monumentality and severity. High-grade silver, gilded silver and a big old carnelian bead on top. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Top of the ring: 2,5 cm Ring size: 18 mm (inner diameter) or 7 3/4 (US size) Provenance: German private collection. Literature: “Bagues ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie et d’Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p.112 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p.261 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 142 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p.127 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 251 CA147
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Yemeni ring made of high-grade silver. This kind of rings are called tower rings, and are also worn by Rashaida women. Age: 1st half of the 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: Total height of the ring: 4,5 cm Ring size: 20 mm inner diameter - US size 10 Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 120 “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984, p. 279 YEM205
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Nose ring from Himachal Pradesh in the typical bulak design, a large crescent, constructed with
very fine granulation and a coral bead. These were worn in the Septum of the nose, hanging down to or over the mouth.
From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 7,3 x 4,5 cm. Provenance: German private collection. Literature:
“Nose rings of India”, Ganguly, Waltraud, BR publishing Corporation, 2015, p. 63 HIM97 -
Pair of Afghan earrings, made of silver wire, wrapped in a spiral and granulated bottom end. Inset with what it seems to be carnelian stones on top. Accordinag to Janata (see literature) these earrings are wrongly attributed to the Kazakhs, but this type, is undoubtedly native to northern Afghanistan and fits stylistically and technically into one of the dominant Tajik styles. Early 20th century. High grade silver and carnelian. Dimensions: 6,5 x 1,5 cm Weight: 19 gr Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001, p. 85 “Schmuck in Afganisthan”, Janata, Alfred, Akademische Druck, 1981, p. 95 CA155
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Yemeni ring made of high-grade silver. This kind of rings are called tower rings, and are also worn by Rashaida women. Age: 1st half of the 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: Total height of the ring: 4,2 cm Ring size: 18,75 mm inner diameter - US size 8 3/4 Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 120 “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984, p. 279 YEM206
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South Indian Silver bracelet from Tamil Nadu, South India. Regardless the precise and rich refined decoration, this kind of bracelet belong to rural communities. From the 1st half of the 20th century. Provenance: ex-Dutch private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 10,5 x 11 x 4 cm Inner diameter: 7,5 cm Weight: 111,2 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 169 “Indian Folk jewellery”, Ganguly, Waltraud, B.R. Publishing Corporation, 2015, p.107 “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 IND1643
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Yemeni ring made of high-grade silver. This kind of rings are called tower rings, and are also worn by Rashaida women. Age: 1st half of the 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: Total height of the ring: 3,8 cm Ring size: 16,25 mm inner diameter - US size 5 1/2 Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 120 “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984, p. 279 YEM204
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A three-strand of small bronze pendants and beads. Each of the pendants (1 cm high) has been cast by the lost wax technique. Most probably Kondh tribal culture, Orisha, India. From the 1st half of the 20th century or earlier. In the original stringing. Provenance: ex UK private collection. Length (longest strand): 78 cm Weight: 107,7 gr IND1636
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Matching pair of Turkmen bracelets. Made of silver and gilded silver. According to Anne Van Cutsem, this kind of bracelets without gemstones comes from North of Afghanistan. From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Size: 7 x 5,5 x 5,5 cm Inner diameter: 6,5 cm Width: 5,5 cm Back gap: 3,8 cm Weight: 172,7 gr References: “Bracelets ethniques”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 150 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 246 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 104 CA138
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"Hombori" stone bracelet, West Africa. Hombori is the name of a chain of mountains, and the region around. Dogon, Songhai, Fulani, Mossi, Frafra and some other groups wear this sort of bracelets. The region is rich in different stones, one of them is this kind of marble. From the 19th century or early 20th. Provenance: ex-UK private collection. Dimensions: Total diameter: 10 cm Inner diameter: 8 cm Width: 3 cm Weight: 235,4 gr Literature: “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984, pag. 120-121 “African Hats and jewellery”, Clarke, Duncan, PRC Publishing, 1998, p.43 “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 45 WA124
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Silver bracelets like this without enamel can also be seen in the region, but the ones with enamel are, according to Anne van Cutsem, specific to the Shan state. Although these two bracelets look very similar, they are not a pair and they are sold separately. From the 19th century. Dimensions approx.: 7,5 x 7 cm Inner diameter: 5,5-6 cm Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p.263 “Yunnan silver ornament”, Sun Helin, Yunnan people's Publishing House, p. 122 “The art of silver jewellery”, Skira, 2006, p. 160 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p.137 SEA347
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"Hombori" stone bracelet, West Africa. Hombori is the name of a chain of mountains, and the region around. Dogon, Songhai, Fulani, Mossi, Frafra and some other groups wear this sort of bracelets. The region is rich in different stones, one of them is this kind of marble. From the 19th century or early 20th. Provenance: ex-UK private collection. Dimensions: Total diameter: 11 cm Inner diameter: 7,5 cm Width: 2,4 cm Weight: 235,4 gr Literature: “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984, pag. 120-121 “African Hats and jewellery”, Clarke, Duncan, PRC Publishing, 1998, p.43 “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 45 WA121
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Elbow bracelet called “iwuki” or “aweyka”. It is a large ring carved in stone (or sometimes wood) worn by men above the elbow. It could be worn alone or with other similar bracelets. The stone is sourced in the Aïr desert. It fell into disuse at the end of the 20th century except for the Fulani Bororo (woodabé), who borrowed them from the Tuareg and wear it frequently, still today. Each shape has a different name. Inner diameter: 8,5 cm Literature: “Bijoux tuaregs”, Burner, Jean, Éditions du Fournel, 2011, p. 254 WA125
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High-grade silver necklace, from Sri Lanka, the clasp has beautiful decoration and it still holds some gilding. From the 19th century or early 20th century. In good condition, with some slight dents on some of the beads. Dimensions: Length: 71 cm Size of the clasp: 9 x 3,8 cm Diameter of beads: 1,9 cm SRI28
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Bronze lime container that is suspended from a waist band. Worn by Naga people. Lime is needed for the betel preparation. From the 19th century, very nice patina. Due to the accumulation of lime on the edges the container doesn’t close totally. Dimensions: 6,5 x 5,5 x 5 cm Literature: “Ceintures ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2004, p. 160 A similar example can be seen in the collection of the British Museum (London): https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/A_As1982-19-134-a-b IND1615
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Old silver Mauritanian hinged bracelet that can be fastened and unfastened easily. In very good condition. Made of high-grade silver (tested). From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: Size: diameter 9,5 cm Inner diameter: 5,5 cm Width: 2 cm Weight: 116,6 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie d’Océanie et d’Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002 “Africa Adorned”, Fisher, Angela, Collins Harvill, London, 1984 “Bijoux du Marroc. Du Haut Atlas à la Vallée du Draa”, Rabaté, Marie-rose et Jacques, Edisuc/Le Fennec, 1996 MAR286
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Big silver Turkmen ring, worn by people of the Teke tribe, Central Asia. The Yuzuk ring is very simple. A large carnelian is set in a wide silver band, a thin twisted wire running around the base of the stone. The band may be decorated with a relief, sometimes a very complicated one, but the general effect is always that of monumentality and severity. High-grade silver, and a big old carnelian bead on top. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Top of the ring: 3 cm Ring size: 18,5 mm (inner diameter) or 8 1/4 (US size) Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p.112 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p.261 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 142 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p.127 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 251 CA77
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Pair of moulded and chased fibulas from Essaouira, Morocco, worn by the Ait Haha people. These fibulas were collected in the mid of the last century by a Spanish doctor living in the area. The shape is a remainder of a ram’s head, which is a very important animal since pre-historic times. From early 20th century. It is hallmarked as Essaouira 1332 (1913) and a rooster head on the back. Dimensions: 13 x 8,5 cm Weight: 97,1 gr Literature: “Bijoux Berbéres Au Marroc dans la tradition judeo-arab”, Rouach, David, ACR Edition, 1989, p. 110 “Les fibules, deux mille ans en Afrique du N”, Rabaté. Marie-Rose, ACR Edition, 2013, p. 183 “Berber Memoires”, Draguet, Michel, Mercator fonds, Yale, 2021, p. 117 ss “Bijoux du Marroc. Du Haut Atlas à la Vallée du Draa”, Rabaté, Marie-rose et Jacques, Edisuc/Le Fennec, 1996, p. 163 MAR271
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Silver belt from India. The decorated chain is common in Madhya Pradesh, although the silver tassels are more frequently seen in South India.
The two-panel clasp has a central screw forming a hinge.
From the first half of the 20th century.
Dimensions:
Total length: 79 cm
Clasp: 6,5 x 2,5 cm
Frontal tassels (with clasp): 20 cm
Weight: 276,4 gr
Literature:
“Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997
“Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005
“De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011
“Ceintures ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2004
IND1626
