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High-grade silver necklace, from Sri Lanka, the clasp has beautiful decoration and it still holds some gilding. From the 19th century or early 20th century. In good condition, with some slight dents on some of the beads. Dimensions: Length: 71 cm Size of the clasp: 9 x 3,8 cm Diameter of beads: 1,9 cm SRI28
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Silver bracelets like this without enamel can also be seen in the region, but the ones with enamel are, according to Anne van Cutsem, specific to the Shan state. Although these two bracelets look very similar, they are not a pair and they are sold separately. From the 19th century. Dimensions approx.: 7,5 x 7 cm Inner diameter: 5,5-6 cm Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p.263 “Yunnan silver ornament”, Sun Helin, Yunnan people's Publishing House, p. 122 “The art of silver jewellery”, Skira, 2006, p. 160 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p.137 SEA346
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Silver bracelets like this without enamel can also be seen in the region, but the ones with enamel are, according to Anne van Cutsem, specific to the Shan state. Although these two bracelets look very similar, they are not a pair and they are sold separately. From the 19th century. Dimensions approx.: 7,5 x 7 cm Inner diameter: 5,5-6 cm Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p.263 “Yunnan silver ornament”, Sun Helin, Yunnan people's Publishing House, p. 122 “The art of silver jewellery”, Skira, 2006, p. 160 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p.137 SEA347
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Uzbek silver bracelet, most probably from Bukhara. The use of gemstones have prophylactic meaning, being turquoise favorable against evil eye and coral a symbol of life. Materials: silver, gilded silver, turquoise and coral. From the 19th century. In very good condition, no parts missing. Dimensions: Inner diameter: 5,7 cm. The bracelet can be opened with a pin. Width: 3 cm Weight: 59,5 cm Literature: “Il corallo. Nell'ornamento dell'Asia islamica dalla Turchia all'Uzbekistan”, del Mare, Cristina-Vidale, Massimo, Electa napoli, 2001, 109 “A song in metal. Folk Art of Uzbekistan”, Abdullayev, T, Gafur Gulyam Art and Literature Publishers, Tashkent, 1986, p. 187 “Traditional jewellery from Soviet Central Asia and Kazakhstan”, Sovetsky khudozhnik Publishers, 1984, p.73 “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 155 CA184
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Big gau, made of high-grade silver, copper (back), and set with coral beads and turquoise. Excellent workmanship and good condition overall, consistent with age and wear. The central turquoise is a later replacement. This gau was worn in Tsang Province, south central Tibet as well as in Western Tibet. From the 1st half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 10 x 9,5 x 1,5 cm Weight: 130,8 gr Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003 “Jewellery of Tibet and the Himalayas”, Clarke, John, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 2004 HIM116
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This is a rare silver box. Although it looks Persian at first sight, when examined closely it seems to be from a different region. It is still Quoran box amulet , with a lid that opens, but the decoration looks maybe Middle Eastern. It also has three bails, which suggests that it is worn, not on the forearm (as Persian/Afghans ones) but probably hanging as a pendant. It could also be from Iran or Afghanistan, a different type than the ones that are more often found, or maybe from a transitional region between the Middle East and Central Asia. Material: high grade silver. An Ottoman coin is placed at the top as decoration. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier . It is in good condition, although the hinge is fragil and needs a silver wire to be functional. Provenance: French private collection. The box was sourced in Saudi Arabia in the 60s or 70s. Dimensions (with bails): 9 x 9 x 1,8 cm Weight: 97,3 gr ME254
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This is a rare silver box. Although it looks Persian at first sight, when examined closely it seems to be from a different region. It is still Quoran box amulet , with a lid that opens, but the decoration looks maybe Middle Eastern. It also has three bails, which suggests that it is worn, not on the forearm (as Persian/Afghans ones) but probably hanging as a pendant. It could also be from Iran or Afghanistan, a different type than the ones that are more often found, or maybe from a transitional region between the Middle East and Central Asia. Material: high grade silver. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier It is in good condition, although the hinge is fragil and needs a silver wire to be functional. Provenance: French private collection. The box was sourced in Saudi Arabia in the 60s or 70s. Dimensions (with bails): 9,5 x 9 x 1,8 cm Weight: 93,8 gr ME256
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Amber earplugs, worn by Burmese women from the Kachin ethnic group in the 19th century. This reddish amber, or burmite, was formerly found in deposits in the North of Burma (Myanmar). From the 19th century. Length: From 9 cm Diameter: 2 cm Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000 BIR20
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Silver and niello earrings from the Dagestan, in the Caucasus region. From the Avar people. Age: 19th century. Dimensions: Size: 6,5 x 6,8 cm Gauge: 3 mm Weight: 39,4 gr CA43
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Amber earplugs, worn by Burmese women from the Kachin ethnic group in the 19th century. This reddish amber, or burmite, was formerly found in deposits in the North of Burma (Myanmar). From the 19th century. Length: From 9 cm Diameter: 2 cm Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000 BIR21
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This is a rare silver box. Although it looks Persian at first sight, when examined closely it seems to be from a different region. It is still Quoran box amulet , with a lid that opens, but the decoration looks maybe Middle Eastern. It also has three bails, which suggests that it is worn, not on the forearm (as Persian/Afghans ones) but probably hanging as a pendant. It could also be from Iran or Afghanistan, a different type than the ones that are more often found, or maybe from a transitional region between the Middle East and Central Asia. Material: high grade silver and turquoise. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier. It is in good condition, although the hinge is fragil and needs a silver wire to be functional. Provenance: French private collection. The box was sourced in Saudi Arabia in the 60s or 70s. Dimensions (with bails): 9 x 9 x 1,8 cm Weight: 93 gr ME255
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Old silver pendant necklace, used as a lingam casket box. These pendants were designed as containers to hold a sacred lingam stone representing the god Shiva. Lingayats are a Hindu group who believe that Shiva is the only deity, rather than the 3 gods revered by other Hindus. They also believed that the sacred presence of Shiva was not simply confined to the temple, but that it could be held in these pendants for a personal connection to the god. You can see similar samples in “Traditional Jewelry of India” by Oppi Untracht, page133. This is an original and worn piece, in excellent condition, from the 19th Century. Provenance: Ex- Michael Backman Gallery The size of the pendant is 61 mm wide by 41 mm high. The chain is 73 cm long approx. (28,74 in). It weighs 80 gr. For more information about this fascinating pieces, please see my post on Indian lingam box caskets. IND1151
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Silver bracelet from the Kabyle mountains in Algeria. The bracelet is mde of high grade silver, coral cabochons and enamel. From mid-20th century or earlier. Provenance: French private collection. Dimensions: Diameter: 6 cm Width: 6,3 cm Weight: 189,3 gr Literature: “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 398 “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 25 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 22 “L'argent de la lune”, Makilan, 2015, p. 89 “Abzim Parures et bijoux des femmes d'Algérie“, Tamzali, Wassyla, Enterprisse -algérienne de Presse, 1984, p. 169 ARG131
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Silver woman’s Qu’ran holder “muskalik” in a triangular shape, decorated with filigree and a turquoise gemstone, opening lid on top, and coins at the bottom and worn over the shoulder on a long chain. from Syria or Southern Anatolia. Late 19th century,or later 20th. The coins are a later addition to the pendant, which probably had a diferent kind of dangles. Coins are dated 1223 and 1255 of the Islamic calendar, which corresponds to 1801 and 1833. This kind of amulet was an export item made in various smithing centers of the core of the ottoman world (Istanbul, Damascus, Sarajevo…) following a popular trend and fashion from the second half of the 19th century. Material: High grade silver (coins), low grade silver and turquoise. Dimensions: Size of the amulet with coins: 12 x 10 cm Lenght of the chain (approx): 66 cm Literature: “The arts and crafts of Syria”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1992, p. 98 ME225
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High grade silver bracelet from West or Central Timor, Indonesia. Men and women wore this type of bracelet decorated with spirals. The renowned goldsmiths of Ndao and Roti provided this region with silver jewelry for which the smelting of the rijksdaalders of the Netherlands provided the raw material. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 7,5 x 6 cm Inner size: 6 cm Width: 2,5 cm Back opening: 1,7 cm Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 296-7 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011, p. 186 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p.300 INDO118
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Solid silver bracelet from Timor (Indonesia). Worn bu Atoni Pah Meto warriors, who occupy most of what is now the Indonesian western half of the island. The silver ornaments were comissioned to silversmiths of Ndao and Roti, and the rijksdaalders coins from the Netherlands were melted to produce the silver. From early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 8 x 6 cm Inner diameter: 5,4 cm Back opening: 2,6 cm Width: 1 cm Weight: 109,7 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 297 “Vanishing beauty“, The Art Institute of Chicago, 2016, p. 222 “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, p. 255 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 211 INDO114
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Solid silver bracelet from Timor (Indonesia). Worn bu Atoni Pah Meto warriors, who occupy most of what is now the Indonesian western half of the island. The silver ornaments were comissioned to silversmiths of Ndao and Roti, and the rijksdaalders coins from the Netherlands were melted to produce the silver. From early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 8,5 x 6 cm Inner diameter: 6 cm Back opening: 2,8 cm Width: 1 cm Weight: 119,5 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 297 “Vanishing beauty“, The Art Institute of Chicago, 2016, p. 222 “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, p. 255 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 211 INDO116
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Matching pair of Turkmen bracelets. Made of silver and gilded silver. According to Anne Van Cutsem, this kind of bracelets without gemstones comes from North of Afghanistan. From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Size: 7 x 5,5 x 5,5 cm Inner diameter: 6,5 cm Width: 5,5 cm Back gap: 3,8 cm Weight: 172,7 gr References: “Bracelets ethniques”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 150 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 246 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 104 CA138
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Old silver pendant necklace, used as a lingam casket box. These pendants were designed as containers to hold a sacred lingam stone representing the god Shiva. High-grade silver. Lingayats are a Hindu group who believe that Shiva is the only deity, rather than the 3 gods revered by other Hindus. They also believed that the sacred presence of Shiva was not simply confined to the temple, but that it could be held in these pendants for a personal connection to the god. You can see similar samples in “Traditional jewelry of India” by Oppi Untracht, page133. This is an original and worn piece, in excellent condition, from the 19th Century. Provenance: Ex- Michael Backman Gallery The size of the pendant is nearly 61 mm wide by 52 mm high. The chain is 70 cm long approx. (27,56 in). Weight: 86 gr. For more information about this fascinating pieces, please see my post on Indian lingam box caskets. IND1153
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Necklace with old carnelian beads, alternating with bronze bell beads and some orange glass beads. Worn by the Ao Naga people. From the first half of the 20th century, although some brass trumpets and carnelian beads look older. Provenance: Italian private collection. Dimensions: Length: 72 cm Size of the biggest carnelian beads: 3 cm Size of trumpet-shaped beads: 5,5 cm Weight: 226,1 gr Literature: “The Nagas”,Jacobs, Julian, Edition Hansjörg Mayer, 2012, p. 324 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 338 “The splendour of ethnic jewelry”, Borel, France, Thames & Hudson, 1994, p.156 "Arte Naga", Museo Nacional de Etnología, 1988, p.36 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 64 IND1674
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Ceremonial hair comb called hai kara jangga, from East Sumba, Indonesia. On important occasions and especially during rituals following the death of a highly placed member of the nobility, women dance with these combs stuck into the hair bun as a crown. Marriageable young women wear the comb over their forehead. The combs are still worn today, but the custom is fast dying out. This one has bilaterally symmetrical cocks silhouetted and perched on top of antlered deer, depicted in open work with small and delicate designs. Antlered deer symbolise royalty. The fighting cocks represent the upper world of the spirits, ancestors and nobility, as well as the aggression of aristocratic warriors. An abstract central image between them most likely represents a skull tree called an andung, where trophy heads were displayed. Material: Tortoiseshell From the first half of the 20th century. In good condition, although one of the teeth (far left) is missing. Provenance: French private collection. Dimensions: 15,5 x 14 x 5,5 cm For a similar example, please see the Metropolitan Museum of Art website, accession number: 1987.447.15. Literature: “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 216 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 194 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, werelsmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p. 428-9 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 216 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 212 “Power and gold: jewelry from Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines”, Rodgers, Susan, Presteg Verlag, Geneve, 1988, p. 289 “Sieraden, en lichaamsversiering uit Indonesië”, Wassing, Rita, Museum Nusantara, 1984, p 33 “Living with indonesian art”, Brinkgreve, Francine y Stuart-Fox, Rijksmuseum Volkenkunde, 2013, 281 INDO106
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Old Silver belt from Maharashtra, India. Very good silver content, at least 800 or 900/1000.. It depicts a Kirtimukha face. From the first half of the 20th century. Provenance: French private collection. The buckle can be opened with a screw. Two thick snake chains make the rest of the belt. The length of the belt is 77,5 cm Weight: 229 gr References: “Ceintures ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2004 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 IND1692
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Necklace made of high-grade silver and smoke quartz stone. The piece features finely made filigree and granulation which is very characteristic of pieces from this region. From the second half of the XXth century, probably the 60s’ or 70s’. For more information about Sri Lankan jewelry check our blog post. Dimensions: Length: 48 cm (18,89 inches) Width: 27 mm (1,06 inches) Weight: 62,6 gr Literature: “Colliers ethniques d’Afrique d’Asie, d’Océanie et d’Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003 “The splendour of ethnic jewelry”, Borel, France, Thames & Hudson, 1994 SRI23
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Old Indian silver bracelet from Rajasthan. This type of bracelet is also used as anklets in India. The silver content is very good, at least 900/1000. It is made with a thick layer of silver, which makes this bracelet heavier (267 gr) than other similar examples (usually around 70-100 gr). The work on the clasp area is delicate and finely made. From the XIXth Century. It is in very good condition, and it has a very nice worn patina. Women in Rajasthan wear a variety of anklets on both legs, that can be solid or flexible. A newly married girl wears a number of different bands extending to the rim of the skirt. There is a set pattern that follows in the order in which these bands are worn. Right on the ankle rest the flexible anklet, and all the others above it. Check the post about Indian anklets here in my blog for more information. The inner diameter is 72 mm. Inner round perimeter 23 cm It can be easily fastened with a pin. It weighs 267 gr. IND1169
