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Hair pin from Sumba, Indonesia Material: Tortoiseshell From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: 14 x 6,5 cm Literature: INDO42
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Ceremonial necklace of woven silver wire, expanded al regular interval to form beads. From Sumbawa island, Indonesia. Only a needle was used to create the very fine detail on this kidd of ornaments. With such rudimentary tools, great craftmanship was required. From the 19th century. In good condition, considering age and wear. The central "bead" has been slightly damaged (see pictures). Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Length: 74 cm Size of the beads: 1,7 cm Weight: 45,3 gr Literature: “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 191 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, wereldmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p. 488-9 INDO105
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Pubic ornament for boys, which was worn around the waist. From Sumbawa, Indonesia. High grade silver, decorated with filigree and granulation. From the 19th century. Dimensions: Ornament(with round beads): 7,5 x 5,5 cm Height with base: 20,5 cm Weight: 16,2 gr Literature: “Sieraden, en lichaamsversiering uit Indonesië”, Wassing, Rita, Museum Nusantara, 1984, p.116 INDO133
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Solid silver bracelet from Timor (Indonesia). Worn bu Atoni Pah Meto warriors, who occupy most of what is now the Indonesian western half of the island. The silver ornaments were comissioned to silversmiths of Ndao and Roti, and the rijksdaalders coins from the Netherlands were melted to produce the silver. From early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 8 x 6 cm Inner diameter: 5,4 cm Back opening: 2,6 cm Width: 1 cm Weight: 109,7 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 297 “Vanishing beauty“, The Art Institute of Chicago, 2016, p. 222 “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, p. 255 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 211 INDO114
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Solid silver bracelet from Timor (Indonesia). Worn bu Atoni Pah Meto warriors, who occupy most of what is now the Indonesian western half of the island. The silver ornaments were comissioned to silversmiths of Ndao and Roti, and the rijksdaalders coins from the Netherlands were melted to produce the silver. From early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 8,5 x 6 cm Inner diameter: 6 cm Back opening: 2,8 cm Width: 1 cm Weight: 119,5 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 297 “Vanishing beauty“, The Art Institute of Chicago, 2016, p. 222 “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, p. 255 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 211 INDO116
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High grade silver bracelet from West or Central Timor, Indonesia. Men and women wore this type of bracelet decorated with spirals. The renowned goldsmiths of Ndao and Roti provided this region with silver jewelry for which the smelting of the rijksdaalders of the Netherlands provided the raw material. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 7,5 x 6 cm Inner size: 6 cm Width: 2,5 cm Back opening: 1,7 cm Weight: 104,3 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 296-7 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011, p. 186 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p.300 INDO118
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Rare woman's Toraja necklace, South and Central Sulawesi, Indonesia. Materials: Silver, wood and painted glass. Most of the glass beads used by the Toraja were imported or derived from trading. The silver beads were probably made by itinerant Bugis smiths; the wood core were typical of Toraja and not found elsewere. From the 19th century or early 20th. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Length: 54 cm (no clasp) Each bead 2,5 x 1 cm Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 344 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 188 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 217 “Gold Jewellery of the Indonesian Archipelago”. Anne Richter, Bruce W. Carpenter, ed.Didier Millet, 2011, p. 256-7 “Beads in Indonesia”, Adhyatman, Sumarah - Arifin, Redjeki, Penerbit Djambatan, 1993, p. 118 INDO104
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Elbow bracelet called “iwuki” or “aweyka”. It is a large ring carved in stone (or sometimes wood) worn by men above the elbow. It could be worn alone or with other similar bracelets. The stone is sourced in the Aïr desert. It fell into disuse at the end of the 20th century except for the Fulani Bororo (woodabé), who borrowed them from the Tuareg and wear it frequently, still today. Each shape has a different name. Inner diameter: 8,5 cm Literature: “Bijoux tuaregs”, Burner, Jean, Éditions du Fournel, 2011, p. 254 WA125
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Turkoman woman’s ear pendant called “tenetschir”, generally attached to a headdress, not to the ears. From the Tekke people from the oasis of Merv and Salor people from the oasis of Serachs. Materials: high-grade silver, fire-gilded silver and carnelians in table cut. From the 19th or first quarter of the 20th century. Provenance: UK private collection Dimensions: 20 x 6 cm Weight: 86 gr Literature: “Old silver jewellery of the Turkoman”, Schletzer, Dietrich Reimer Verlag, 1984, p. 184.5 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 134 “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001. p. 81 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 96 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011, p. 134 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 354 CA208
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Big silver Turkmen ring, worn by people of the Teke tribe, Central Asia. The Yuzuk ring is very simple. A large carnelian is set in a wide silver band, a thin twisted wire running around the base of the stone. The band may be decorated with a relief, sometimes a very complicated one, but the general effect is always that of monumentality and severity. High-grade silver, gilded silver and a big old carnelian bead on top. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Top of the ring: 2,5 cm Ring size: 18 mm (inner diameter) or 7 3/4 (US size) Provenance: German private collection. Literature: “Bagues ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie et d’Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p.112 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p.261 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 142 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p.127 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 251 CA147
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Matching pair of Turkmen bracelets. Made of silver and gilded silver. According to Anne Van Cutsem, this kind of bracelets without gemstones comes from North of Afghanistan. From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Size: 7 x 5,5 x 5,5 cm Inner diameter: 6,5 cm Width: 5,5 cm Back gap: 3,8 cm Weight: 172,7 gr References: “Bracelets ethniques”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 150 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 246 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 104 CA138
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Old Tekke ring, made of high grade silver and fire gilded silver. The whole ring has an old and worn patina. From the Turkoman people, Central Asia. From the first half of the 20th century. Provenance: UK private collection. Size (inner mm): 19,25 mm - US size is 9 1/4 Weight: 8,7 gr Literature: “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 127 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 251 “Bagues ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie et d’Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 112 CA241
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Turquoise silver Tibetan ring with nice patina, in a square shape. Pearls, turquoise coral and amber are very important for Himalayan adornment culture, as they are believed to have prophylactic properties. That's why they use them on necklaces, bracelets rings and head adornments. From the first half of the 20th century. The size of the ring is US 8 1/4 (18,5 mm inner diameter). The top of the ring is 1,8 x 1,8 cm. HIM145
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Silver flexible "paizebh" anklet from Uttar Pradesh, India. High-grade silver shaped in a beautiful chain. From mid-XXth Century or earlier. It can be opened easily with a pin. This kind of flexible Indian anklets look lighter and more frivolous than the rigid pieces that can be found in other regions in India, but they are usually heavier than they appear to be. Women in traditional Central India usually wear several flexible and rigid anklets on each leg at the same time. Check the post about Indian anklets here in my blog for more information. Dimensions: Length: 22,5 cm Width: 3,5 cm Weight: 134,1 gr. Literature: “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011 “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 IND1570
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Big gilded silver amulet "Tumar", from Uzbekistan (Central Asia). Materials: silver, gilded silver, turquoisea and glass. From the 19th century or early 20th. Dimensions: 13 x 9,5 x 1,7 cm Weight: 156,8 gr Literature: “Il corallo. Nell'ornamento dell'Asia islamica dalla Turchia all'Uzbekistan”, del Mare, Cristina-Vidale, Massimo, Electa napoli, 2001, p. 101 “Museum of the ethnography of the peoples of the USSR”, Aurora Art Publishers, Leningrad, 1988, p. 118 “A song in metal. Folk Art of Uzbekistan”, Abdullayev, T, Gafur Gulyam Art and Literature Publishers, Tashkent, 1986, p. 237 “Traditional jewellery from Soviet Central Asia and Kazakhstan”, Sovetsky khudozhnik Publishers, 1984, 163 CA201
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Vintage Indian gold necklace. These olive-shaped beads are made with 22kt gold sheets wrapping a wax core. From the second half of the 20th century. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Size of the beads: 1,5 cm Total length: 62 cm Weight: 27,6 gr IND1715
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Old silver anklet from the Golden Triangle area in SE Asia. This type of anklets and bracelets can be massive or hollow, like this one. The two ends are stylized lotus buds. Very similar gold bracelets were worn in Bangkok in the XIXth Century. From the beginning of the XXth Century. Mainly worn by the Wa/Lawa people. The inside perimeter is approx. 21 cm (8,27 in) and the inner diameter is 7,3 cm (2,87 in) It weighs 50 gr. Bibliography: Anne van Cutsen book “A world of bracelets” Anne Richter book “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”. SEA290
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High grade silver bracelet in spiral shape narrowing towards the end, used mainly by Wa/Lawa people, one of the Hill Tribes inhabiting the Golden Triangle (SE Asia). Age: First half of the 20th century Provenance: Italian private collection Dimensions: Inner diameter: 6 cm Width: 2 cm Weight: 75,5 gr Literature: “Peoples of the golden triangle”, Lewin, Paul and Elaine, River Books, Bangkok, 1998, p.42 “The art of silver jewellery. From the minorities of China, the Golden Triangle, Mongolia and Tibet”, Skira, 2006, p. 159 “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 267 “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, p. 327 SEA495
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Black Yao back adornment, from different subgroups like the Iu Mien, inhabiting Laos and Thailand. It is made with long cotton streamers which hang on the back of the tunic collars. The top is made with enamel medals (both sides), silver bells and glass beads. Traditionally this dark burgundy red is used. The most recent ones used a much brighter red. From the 1st half of 20th century. Dimensions: Length: 65 cm Width on top (with beads): 9 cm Reference: “The Yao” Pourret, Jess G.,River Books, Bangkok, 2002 SEA226
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Old silver earrings from the Yao people, one of the hill tribes living in the golden triangle hills on the border of Laos, Thailand and Myanmar and also the SW China hills. Mien and some Lahu also wear this bent arrow earrings. They have to be worn on extended earlobes holes. They have been decorated with blue enamel. High-grade silver. From 1st half of XXth century. The earrings are 3 cm high and 2,5 cm wide. Both of them weigh 15 gr. The thickness of the widest part is 5 mm. SEA247
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Vintage Zuni silver and turquoise bracelet, from the Zuni people inhabiting New México (USA). Age:20th century Made of high grade silver and turquoise. Dimensions: Total size: 7 x 5,8 x 2 cm Inner size: 6,3 cm Weight: 56,9 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 321 “Indian silver jewelry of the Southwest 1868-1930”, Frank. Larry, Schiffer, 1990 “Turquoise”, Mark P. Block, Schiffer, 2017 “North American Indian jewelry and adornment”, Sherr Dubin, Lois, Harry N. Abrams, 1999 AME13
