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Beaded pectoral called hapamat , worn by Kungrat Uzbek women, Central Asia. Women of these Uzbek group make themselves beaded ornaments, that are meant to be protective against evil eye. Unlike other ethnic groups of Central Asia that use silver or gold to make their ornaments, the Kungrats prefer beads to adorn themselves. Materials: Glass beads, metal ornaments, mother of pearl buttons, cowries and cotton thread. From the 60s' of 20th century. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Pectoral:29 x 21 cm Length of the doble beaded strand to fasten it: 38 cm Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 205 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p. 259 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 110 CA202
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Beaded pectoral called hapamat , worn by Kungrat Uzbek women, Central Asia. Women of these Uzbek group make themselves beaded ornaments, that are meant to be protective against evil eye. Unlike other ethnic groups of Central Asia that use silver or gold to make their ornaments, the Kungrats prefer beads to adorn themselves. Materials: Glass beads, metal ornaments, mother of pearl buttons, cowries and cotton thread. From the 60s' of 20th century. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: 34 x 28 cm Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 205 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p. 259 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 110 CA203
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Old Tekke ring, made of high grade silver and fire gilded silver. The whole ring has an old and worn patina. From the Turkoman people, Central Asia. From the first half of the 20th century. Provenance: UK private collection. Size (inner mm): 19,25 mm - US size is 9 1/4 Weight: 8,7 gr Literature: “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 127 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 251 “Bagues ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie et d’Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 112 CA241
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Turkoman woman’s ear pendant called “tenetschir”, generally attached to a headdress, not to the ears. From the Tekke people from the oasis of Merv and Salor people from the oasis of Serachs. Materials: high-grade silver, fire-gilded silver and carnelians in table cut. From the 19th or first quarter of the 20th century. Provenance: UK private collection Dimensions: 20 x 6 cm Weight: 86 gr Literature: “Old silver jewellery of the Turkoman”, Schletzer, Dietrich Reimer Verlag, 1984, p. 184.5 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 134 “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001. p. 81 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 96 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011, p. 134 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 354 CA208
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Uzbek silver bracelet, most probably from Bukhara. The use of gemstones have prophylactic meaning, being turquoise favorable against evil eye and coral a symbol of life. Materials: silver, gilded silver, turquoise and coral. From the 19th century. In very good condition, no parts missing. Dimensions: Inner diameter: 5,7 cm. The bracelet can be opened with a pin. Width: 3 cm Weight: 59,5 cm Literature: “Il corallo. Nell'ornamento dell'Asia islamica dalla Turchia all'Uzbekistan”, del Mare, Cristina-Vidale, Massimo, Electa napoli, 2001, 109 “A song in metal. Folk Art of Uzbekistan”, Abdullayev, T, Gafur Gulyam Art and Literature Publishers, Tashkent, 1986, p. 187 “Traditional jewellery from Soviet Central Asia and Kazakhstan”, Sovetsky khudozhnik Publishers, 1984, p.73 “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 155 CA184
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Rare silver and coral necklace from Uzbekistan, most probably from the Khorezm area. First half of the 20th century. Material: coral beads, silver, glass beads and Ottoman and Russian coins. The Ottoman or Uzbek coins are old and worn, one of them is dated in 1279 (1858 CE, the other ones are worn off and it is not possible to see the date. The Russian coins are dated between 1922 and 1929. Dimensions: Length: 62 cm Size of the bigger Russian coins: 2,7 cm (diameter) Weight: 162 gr Literature: “Kyrgyzstan. Ethnic jewellery of Central Asia”, Kadyrov, V., Rarity Firm LTD, 2007, p. 21 “Il corallo. Nell'ornamento dell'Asia islamica dalla Turchia all'Uzbekistan”, del Mare, Cristina-Vidale, Massimo, Electa napoli, 2001, p. 92 CA170
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A six-strand necklace that is usually worn in Southern Uzbekistan in an area where ethnic Uzbek, Tajik, and Pamir live. Made of silver, coral, shell and glass beads. Date: first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Length: 88 cm Weight: 211 gr Literature: “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981 “Il corallo. Nell’ornamento dell’Asia islamica dalla Turchia all’Uzbekistan”, del Mare, Cristina- Vidale, Massimo, Electa napoli, 2001 “Kyrgyzstan. Ethnic jewellery of Central Asia”, Kadyrov, V., Rarity Firm LTD, 2007 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011 CA159
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Silver and niello earrings from the Dagestan, in the Caucasus region. From the Avar people. Age: 19th century. Dimensions: Size: 6,5 x 6,8 cm Gauge: 3 mm Weight: 39,4 gr CA43
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Old silver ring, made of high grade silver and a glass inset on top and on both sides, most probably from Afghanistan. From the first half of the 20th Century. This ring is 18,50 mm - US 8 1/4 Provenance: UK private collection. CA113
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Silver ring, most probably from the Sindh region in Pakistan. Anne van Cutsem mentions (see literature) that these rings come from Pashtun tribes. Glass and high-grade silver. Age: First half of the 20th century Provenance: UK private collection. The size of the ring is 18 mm - inner diameter (7 3/4 US size) . The top of the ring measures 35 x 35 mm. Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 120 CA127
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Old Kazakh silver ring from Central Asia, with very nice worn patina. The oval bezel setting is backed with red paper. High grade silver. From the 19th or early 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. Size of the ring: 18,25 mm (inner diameter) - US size 8. Literature: “Later Islamic Jewellery”, L.A. Mayer Institute for Islamic Art, Jerusalem, 1987, p. 143 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 127 CA144
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Old silver ring from Central Asia, with inset with a carnelian gemstone. High grade silver. From early 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. Size of the ring: 18 mm (inner diameter) - US size 7 3/4. CA152
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Big silver Turkmen ring, worn by people of the Teke tribe, Central Asia. The Yuzuk ring is very simple. A large carnelian is set in a wide silver band, a thin twisted wire running around the base of the stone. The band may be decorated with a relief, sometimes a very complicated one, but the general effect is always that of monumentality and severity. High-grade silver, gilded silver and a big old carnelian bead on top. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Top of the ring: 2,5 cm Ring size: 18 mm (inner diameter) or 7 3/4 (US size) Provenance: German private collection. Literature: “Bagues ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie et d’Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p.112 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p.261 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 142 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p.127 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 251 CA147
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Pair of Afghan earrings, made of silver wire, wrapped in a spiral and granulated bottom end. Inset with what it seems to be carnelian stones on top. Accordinag to Janata (see literature) these earrings are wrongly attributed to the Kazakhs, but this type, is undoubtedly native to northern Afghanistan and fits stylistically and technically into one of the dominant Tajik styles. Early 20th century. High grade silver and carnelian. Dimensions: 6,5 x 1,5 cm Weight: 19 gr Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001, p. 85 “Schmuck in Afganisthan”, Janata, Alfred, Akademische Druck, 1981, p. 95 CA155
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Matching pair of Turkmen bracelets. Made of silver and gilded silver. According to Anne Van Cutsem, this kind of bracelets without gemstones comes from North of Afghanistan. From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Size: 7 x 5,5 x 5,5 cm Inner diameter: 6,5 cm Width: 5,5 cm Back gap: 3,8 cm Weight: 172,7 gr References: “Bracelets ethniques”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 150 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 246 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 104 CA138
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Big silver Turkmen ring, worn by people of the Teke tribe, Central Asia. The Yuzuk ring is very simple. A large carnelian is set in a wide silver band, a thin twisted wire running around the base of the stone. The band may be decorated with a relief, sometimes a very complicated one, but the general effect is always that of monumentality and severity. High-grade silver, and a big old carnelian bead on top. From the first quarter of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Top of the ring: 3 cm Ring size: 18,5 mm (inner diameter) or 8 1/4 (US size) Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p.112 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p.261 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 142 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p.127 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 251 CA77
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A magnificent men’s ceremonial belt from the Caucasus. Made of 38 interlocking parts cast in the highest grade sliver. Each individual part is furnished with a hallmark on its smooth back. All the small parts are attached to a leather band preserving thereby the flexibility of the heavy silver girdle. All segments have a tender raised leaf-side, on the upper rim of which arranged in dense rows are double volutes. The lower edge is decorated with black Niello. High grade silver, hallmarked, niello and some remains of gilding. Dimensions: Length:79 cm Width: 4,5 cm Weight: 787,3 gr Literature: “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, p.112 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009 “Remnants of the past-Collection of Lousick Agouletsi”, Tigran mets, 2010 CA40
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Old Afghan silver ring, with an ancient glass inset. From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: Total length: 4 cm Size: 18,75 mm inner diameter (US size: 8 3/4) CA30
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Solid bracelet, made of high-grade silver (tested). From Sindh region in Pakistan. From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Size: 9,5 x 7,5 cm Inner diameter: 6 cm Weight: 132,6 gr Literature: “Schmuck in Afganisthan”, Janata, Alfred, Akademische Druck, 1981 CA21
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This is a heavy matching pair of Turkmen bracelets from the Tekke tribe. Good silver content and carnelian gemstones, The silver was etched and fire-gilded. From late 19th Century or beginning 20th. Very good conditions, silver shows an extraordinary patina due to use. The Turkmens are a Turkic people located primarily in the Central Asian states of Turkmenistan, Afghanistan, northern Pakistan, northeastern Iran, Syria, Iraq and North Caucasus. The bracelets measure 9 cm long. Inner diameter (bigger): 65 mm Inner diameter (smaller): 62 mm Weight: 455 gr References: “Bracelets ethniques”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984 “Old silver jewellery of the Turkoman”, Schletzer, Dietrich, Reimer Verlag, 1984 ME57