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Hair pin from Sumba, Indonesia Material: Tortoiseshell From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: 14 x 6,5 cm Literature: INDO42
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A broad war helmet frontlet shaped from hammered brass known as a tap lavong kayo from Kayanic Dayak, eastern Kalimantan, Borneo, Indonesia.
Material: bronze.
From the first half of the 20th century.
The frontlet is folded gently backwards at the midsection to accommodate the curvature of the helmet and features projecting tendrils that flank a highly stylized visage. Scholars posit that these figures represent protective guardian spirits or perhaps spirits of ancestral figures who protect the warriors during each instance of combat.
Provenance: European private collection
Dimensions:
Only the helmet frontlet: 19,5 x 13 cm
Literature:
“Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 152 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 279, 324 “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 211 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 222INDO107
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South Sumatran comb used as part of the wedding cerimonial jewellery, together with other pieces (Indonesia). These filigree combs are found in Lampung and are usually referred to as Lampung combs, it appears that they were manufactured n West Sumatra by the Minangkabau who excelled in this work. The filigree and granulated decoration confirm de Islamic influence on the Sumatran coasts. Materials: gilded silver, silver. From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 13,5 x 6 cm Weight: 69,4 gr Literature: “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 280 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 125 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, wereldmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p. 273 INDO155
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Pubic ornament for boys, which was worn around the waist. From Sumbawa, Indonesia. High grade silver, decorated with filigree and granulation. From the 19th century. Dimensions: Ornament(with round beads): 7,5 x 5,5 cm Height with base: 20,5 cm Weight: 16,2 gr Literature: “Sieraden, en lichaamsversiering uit Indonesië”, Wassing, Rita, Museum Nusantara, 1984, p.116 INDO133
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Head ornament worn by chamans from Krui people (South Sumatra) or from Siberut Island, Mentawai archipielago (Indonesia). Materials: wood, cotton, glass beads, cauris, shell, paper seeds. The suspended objects are considered to have magic powers. First half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 20 x 20 x 18 cm Literature: “Le Monde en Tete”, Seuil, 2019, p. 190 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 186 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 101 “Voyage dans ma tête”, fage éditions, 2010, p. 152 INDO131
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Rare Minangkabau necklace,from West Sumatra, Indonesia. The necklace is made of high grade silver (gilded). While the oval filigree pendants with a central flower might suggest the stylized lotus, they are also typical of the star forms used in the Islamic design protocols of the Ottoman Empire, the Middle East and elsewhere. Late 19th century pictures show women of Solok wearing similar necklaces and it is likely that they were either made in nearby Padang on the coast or asembled there from filigree elements sent down by numerous silversmiths working in the Agam hills. The Central pendant is the biggest, and the rest have decreasing sizes. From the 19th or early 20th century. Dimensions: Length: 50 cm Size of central pendant with dangles: 6,5 x 3,5 cm Weight: 73,6 gr Literature: “Gold Jewellery of the Indonesian Archipelago”. Anne Richter, Bruce W. Carpenter, ed.Didier Millet, 2011, p.286 INDO136
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Gilded silver necklace called simata, worn by the Karo Batak in Sumatra, Indonesia. Worn by unmarried women. Sime glass beads are also strung in this necklace. Age: 19th or early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Total length: 84 cm Size of the bidonical beads: 2,5 cm Weight: 43,3 gr Literature: “Gold Silver and Brass, jewellery of the Batak”, Sibeth, Achim, 5 Continents Editions, 2012, p. 142 “Sieraden, en lichaamsversiering uit Indonesië”, Wassing, Rita, Museum Nusantara, 1984, p.96 INDO110
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Solid silver bracelet from Timor (Indonesia). Worn bu Atoni Pah Meto warriors, who occupy most of what is now the Indonesian western half of the island. The silver ornaments were comissioned to silversmiths of Ndao and Roti, and the rijksdaalders coins from the Netherlands were melted to produce the silver. From early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 8 x 6 cm Inner diameter: 5,4 cm Back opening: 2,6 cm Width: 1 cm Weight: 109,7 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 297 “Vanishing beauty“, The Art Institute of Chicago, 2016, p. 222 “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, p. 255 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 211 INDO114
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Silver earrings from Nage or Ngada people, Flores, Indonesia. Age: 1st half of the 20th century or earlier. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: 3 x 2 x 0,5 cm Weight: 20,1 gr Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001, p.283 “Sieraden, en lichaamsversiering uit Indonesië”, Wassing, Rita, Museum Nusantara, 1984, p.71 INDO130
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High grade silver bracelet from West or Central Timor, Indonesia. Men and women wore this type of bracelet decorated with spirals. The renowned goldsmiths of Ndao and Roti provided this region with silver jewelry for which the smelting of the rijksdaalders of the Netherlands provided the raw material. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 7,5 x 6 cm Inner size: 6 cm Width: 2,5 cm Back opening: 1,7 cm Weight: 104,3 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 296-7 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011, p. 186 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p.300 INDO118
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Solid silver bracelet from Timor (Indonesia). Worn bu Atoni Pah Meto warriors, who occupy most of what is now the Indonesian western half of the island. The silver ornaments were comissioned to silversmiths of Ndao and Roti, and the rijksdaalders coins from the Netherlands were melted to produce the silver. From early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 8,5 x 6 cm Inner diameter: 6 cm Back opening: 2,8 cm Width: 1 cm Weight: 119,5 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 297 “Vanishing beauty“, The Art Institute of Chicago, 2016, p. 222 “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, p. 255 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 211 INDO116
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High grade silver bracelet from West or Central Timor, Indonesia. Men and women wore this type of bracelet decorated with spirals. The renowned goldsmiths of Ndao and Roti provided this region with silver jewelry for which the smelting of the rijksdaalders of the Netherlands provided the raw material. This particular bracelet has been made with a thick silver plate. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 7,6 x 5,7 cm Inner size: 6 cm Width: 2,5 cm Back opening: 2,2 cm Weight: 149,2 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 296-7 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011, p. 186 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p.300 INDO120
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Solid silver bracelet from Timor (Indonesia). Worn bu Atoni Pah Meto warriors, who occupy most of what is now the Indonesian western half of the island. The silver ornaments were comissioned to silversmiths of Ndao and Roti, and the rijksdaalders coins from the Netherlands were melted to produce the silver. From early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Total size: 7,2 x 5,5 cm Inner diameter: 6 cm Back opening: 2,8 cm Width: 0,7 cm Weight: 51 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 297 “Vanishing beauty“, The Art Institute of Chicago, 2016, p. 222 “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, p. 255 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 211 INDO113
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Ceremonial necklace of woven silver wire, expanded al regular interval to form beads. From Sumbawa island, Indonesia. Only a needle was used to create the very fine detail on this kidd of ornaments. With such rudimentary tools, great craftmanship was required. From the 19th century. In good condition, considering age and wear. The central "bead" has been slightly damaged (see pictures). Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Length: 74 cm Size of the beads: 1,7 cm Weight: 45,3 gr Literature: “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 191 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, wereldmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p. 488-9 INDO105
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A charming silver ring. According to the previous owner the ring is from from Aceh Sumatra (Indonesia).It's decorated with filigree. From the 19th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Ring size: US 8 - 18,25 mm inner diameter INDO100
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Ceremonial hair comb called hai kara jangga, from East Sumba, Indonesia. On important occasions and especially during rituals following the death of a highly placed member of the nobility, women dance with these combs stuck into the hair bun as a crown. Marriageable young women wear the comb over their forehead. The combs are still worn today, but the custom is fast dying out. This one has bilaterally symmetrical cocks silhouetted and perched on top of antlered deer, depicted in open work with small and delicate designs. Antlered deer symbolise royalty. The fighting cocks represent the upper world of the spirits, ancestors and nobility, as well as the aggression of aristocratic warriors. An abstract central image between them most likely represents a skull tree called an andung, where trophy heads were displayed. Material: Tortoiseshell From the first half of the 20th century. In good condition, although one of the teeth (far left) is missing. Provenance: French private collection. Dimensions: 15,5 x 14 x 5,5 cm For a similar example, please see the Metropolitan Museum of Art website, accession number: 1987.447.15. Literature: “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 216 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 194 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, werelsmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p. 428-9 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 216 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 212 “Power and gold: jewelry from Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines”, Rodgers, Susan, Presteg Verlag, Geneve, 1988, p. 289 “Sieraden, en lichaamsversiering uit Indonesië”, Wassing, Rita, Museum Nusantara, 1984, p 33 “Living with indonesian art”, Brinkgreve, Francine y Stuart-Fox, Rijksmuseum Volkenkunde, 2013, 281 INDO106
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Rare woman's Toraja necklace, South and Central Sulawesi, Indonesia. Materials: Silver, wood and painted glass. Most of the glass beads used by the Toraja were imported or derived from trading. The silver beads were probably made by itinerant Bugis smiths; the wood core were typical of Toraja and not found elsewere. From the 19th century or early 20th. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Length: 54 cm (no clasp) Each bead 2,5 x 1 cm Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 344 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 188 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 217 “Gold Jewellery of the Indonesian Archipelago”. Anne Richter, Bruce W. Carpenter, ed.Didier Millet, 2011, p. 256-7 INDO104
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Gilded silver Karo Batak ring called Tapak gajah, from Sumatra, Indonesia. This type of ring was made on instructions from a guru or religious specialist, and was worn as a method of treatment. Additional magic substances were often inserted on the inside of the bezel. The Batak interprered illness as proof that their living soul had temporarily lost direct contact with its person. Through such a ring and the medicine of a guru the soul could be persuaded to stay close to the patient, who would quickly recover from his or her illness. The outside of the ring is decorated with lavish filigree, twisted wires and granulations. From the 19th or early 20th century. Provenance: Belgian private collection Dimensions: Top of the ring: 1,5 x 1,2 cm Ring size: US 9 - 19 mm inner diameter Literature: “Bagues ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie et d’Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 177 “Gold Silver and Brass, jewellery of the Batak”, Sibeth, Achim, 5 Continents Editions, 2012. p. 118 “Power and gold: jewelry from Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines”, Rodgers, Susan, Presteg Verlag, Geneve, 1988, p. 279 INDO98
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These Sumbanese bracelets, worn by men and women alike, are easily identified by its graceful form and triangle decoration with dots. Age: 19th century or older. The object has been examined by an ivory appraiser and has a certificate stating that the ivory predates 1947. In very good condition, with no chips or damages. Dimensions: Total size: 10 cm Inner diameter: 6 cm Weight: 273,7 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie d’Océanie et d’Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 294 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 206 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, werelsmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p.352 “L’or des Iles. Bijoux et ornements d’indonesie, malaisie et philippines”, Rodgers, Susan, Musée Barbier Mueller, Geneve, 1991, p. 296
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Gilded silver pair of matching bracelets. Embossed bracelets like this are worn by a bride in Palembang (South Sumatra), one on each wrist, according to Islamic tradition. She wears the bracelets in festive occasions as well. This pair still keeps some hard material inside to avoid bumps and dents. From the 1st half of 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Inner diameter: 6,7 cm (2,64 inches) Total diameter: 9,5 cm (3,74 inches) Width: 3,5 cm (1,38 inches) Weight: 251,1 gr Literature: “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, werelsmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011 INDO21
