-
A five-strand necklace that is usually worn in Southern Uzbekistan in an area where ethnic Uzbek, Tajik, and Pamir live. Made of silver, coral, shell and glass beads. Date: first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Length: 84 cm Central pendant: 4,5 x 2 cm Weight: 179 gr Literature: “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981 “Il corallo. Nell’ornamento dell’Asia islamica dalla Turchia all’Uzbekistan”, del Mare, Cristina- Vidale, Massimo, Electa napoli, 2001 “Kyrgyzstan. Ethnic jewellery of Central Asia”, Kadyrov, V., Rarity Firm LTD, 2007 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011 -
A silver amulet from Libya, in the shape of a cylinder and with vegetal and floral decoration etched and embossed on the surface. Some coral beads and small pendants intensify the amulet's power to ward off the evil eye. These containers usually hold written amulets or Ketiba in the form of verses from the Koran or undecipherable phrases appeasing formulas or spells. They may also hold perfumes. The container opens on one of the sides. High grade silver and coral. With a Tripoli silver hallmark on top. From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: Length of the chain: 64 cm Size of the pendant with dangles: 9 x 11 x 2,5 cm Weight: 118,2 gr Literature: "Libyan jewellery", Schenone Alberini, Elena, Araldo De Luca Editore, 1998, p. 70 "Jewelry and Adornment of Libya", Ghellali, Hala, BLKVLD, 2024, p. 102 TUN11 -
Rare Minangkabau necklace, from West Sumatra, Indonesia. The necklace is made of gilded high grade silver (tested) and terracotta beads. From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: Length: 60 cm Size of the each pendant: 6,5 x 6 cm Weight: 34,6 gr Literature: “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011 “Gold Jewellery of the Indonesian Archipelago”. Anne Richter, Bruce W. Carpenter, ed.Didier Millet, 2011, p. 285 INDO146 -
Vintage Indian gold necklace. These olive-shaped beads are made with 22kt gold sheets wrapping a wax core. From the second half of the 20th century. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Size of the beads: 1,5 cm Total length: 62 cm Weight: 27,6 gr IND1715 -
Necklace worn by Dayak Kenyah people in East Kalimantan, Indonesia. Beads are valued by all the Borneo's tribes. Dayak families of the upper class own a certain number of old beads which formed an important part of a family’s prestige and wealth, and were one of the principal forms of currency. Materials: Silver and glass beads. Glass beads were for years imported and traded from India, China and Europe. The yellow doughnut beads and the rosette decorated beads have considerable ritual value. Age: The necklace is made with beads of different ages, some of them could be a couple of hundred years old or more, other glass beads are from the 19th and 20th century. The majority of the heirloom glass beads in Kalimantan are most probably from the 17th-19th c, when trade with Europe was at his height. Dimensions: Total length: 80 cm Diameter of biggest bead: 1,5 cm Literature: "Heirloom beads among the Dayak of Borneo", Campbell, Barbie, BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers 34 (2022) "Beads of Borneo", Munan, Heidi, Editions Didier Millet, 2005, p. 11 "Beads in Indonesia" Adhyatman, Sumarah - Arifin, Redjeki, Penerbit Djambatan, 1993, p. 79 “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 343 INDO81 -
Tunisian silver amulet. The cylindrical hirz amulet is completed with dangles with khomsas (Fatima's hand) for extra protection. High grade silver. From the first half of the 20th century. Provenance: European private collection Dimensions: Length of the chain: 64 cm Size of the pendant with dangles: 9 x 7 cm TUN12 -
Large two-strand wedding Skhab necklace from Tunisia. The beads were made with a paste containing grey amber, sandal, musk, rose water, and other scented materials. The skhab necklaces were an important piece of women's jewellery in the Maghreb area, specially in Algeria and Tunisia. The scented beads were considered aphrodisiac, so the necklace could only be worn when the husband was around. Scented beads, high grade silver and cotton. From the first half of the 20th century. Although some decades has passed since the necklace was made it is still possible to smell the scent. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Length of the shorter strand: 88 cm Length of the longer strand: 104 cm Size of the scented beads: 4,7 x 4,7 x 1,2 cm Size of the silver conical beads: 7 cm long Literature: “Le bijoux de Tunisie”, Samira Gargouri-Sethom, Dunes Editions, 2005, p. 123 “Le bijou traditionnel en Tunisie” Samira Gargouri-Sethom, Edisud, 1986, p. 41 “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 43 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p. 36 TUN13 -
Beaded pectoral called hapamat , worn by Kungrat Uzbek women, Central Asia. Women of these Uzbek group make themselves beaded ornaments, that are meant to be protective against evil eye. Unlike other ethnic groups of Central Asia that use silver or gold to make their ornaments, the Kungrats prefer beads to adorn themselves. Materials: Glass beads, metal ornaments, mother of pearl buttons, cowries and cotton thread. From the 60s' of 20th century. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Pectoral:29 x 21 cm Length of the doble beaded strand to fasten it: 38 cm Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 205 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p. 259 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 110 CA202 -
Beaded pectoral called hapamat , worn by Kungrat Uzbek women, Central Asia. Women of these Uzbek group make themselves beaded ornaments, that are meant to be protective against evil eye. Unlike other ethnic groups of Central Asia that use silver or gold to make their ornaments, the Kungrats prefer beads to adorn themselves. Materials: Glass beads, metal ornaments, mother of pearl buttons, cowries and cotton thread. From the 60s' of 20th century. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: 34 x 28 cm Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 205 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p. 259 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 110 CA203 -
Rare Minangkabau necklace,from West Sumatra, Indonesia. The necklace is made of high grade silver (gilded). While the oval filigree pendants with a central flower might suggest the stylized lotus, they are also typical of the star forms used in the Islamic design protocols of the Ottoman Empire, the Middle East and elsewhere. Late 19th century pictures show women of Solok wearing similar necklaces and it is likely that they were either made in nearby Padang on the coast or asembled there from filigree elements sent down by numerous silversmiths working in the Agam hills. The Central pendant is the biggest, and the rest have decreasing sizes. From the 19th or early 20th century. Dimensions: Length: 50 cm Size of central pendant with dangles: 6,5 x 3,5 cm Weight: 73,6 gr Literature: “Gold Jewellery of the Indonesian Archipelago”. Anne Richter, Bruce W. Carpenter, ed.Didier Millet, 2011, p.286 INDO136 -
A Tibetan gau amulet pendant, with excellent patina and good workmanship. This gau was worn in the Eastern provinces of Tibet, Kampa region. Made of high grade silver, brass and coral. A leather string was tied at the back to avoid losing the lid. From the 1st half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 6,3 x 4,5 x 3,8 cm Weight: 44,5 gr Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003 “Jewellery of Tibet and the Himalayas”, Clarke, John, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 2004 HIM130 -
A three-strand traditional coral necklace, called"namysto", from Ukraine. In Ukranian folklore corals were used to symbolize youth and health. Bright red beads meant that the woman was strong and healthy, but dull and greyish ones warned of disease. From the 19th century or older. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Length of the longest strand: 68 cm Size of the bigger central bead (diameter): 1,5 cm Weight: 134,6 gr Literature: “Splendor and shine in the river of time“, Steiner, Irene, Liechtensteinisches Landes Museum, 2020, p. 74 EUR19 -
Old silver pendant necklace, used as a lingam casket box. These pendants were designed as containers to hold a sacred lingam stone representing the god Shiva. The upper part is topped by horns, symbolizing Nandi, Shiva's bull mount. From early 20th century. High grade silver. Lingayats are a Hindu group who believe that Shiva is the only deity, rather than the 3 gods revered by other Hindus. They also believed that the sacred presence of Shiva was not simply confined to the temple, but that it could be held in these pendants for a personal connection to the god. Provenance: French private collection Length of the chain: 88 cm Size of the lingam casket: 7 x 10,5 x 3,5 cm It weighs 219,6 gr. For more information about this fascinating pieces, please see my post about silver lingam caskets here Literature: “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005, 199 “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 236 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 317 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 140 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 135 IND1689 -
Silver necklace from the Greater Kabilia in Algeria. These sort of necklaces, called “Azrar”, were given to women as wedding dowry. They were then use on especial celebrations and festivals. Materials: high grade silver, coral and enamel. From the first half of the 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. The necklace has 21 charm pendants in different shapes, also old French silver coins. Some of the pendants were enamel in blue, green and yellow. These colors and the enamel technique used on them are typical of Berber jewelry from the mountainous kabylie, especially from Beni Yenni. A red coral bead was inset on mostly all pendants, to protect the wearer from evil eye and illness. The necklace is shown in its original condition, and hasn’t been clean or repaired. Dimensions: Length: 41 cm Size of bigger pendants: Between 2,5 and 2,7 cm Weight: 147,4 gr It is fastened with a hook. Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 36 “Abzim Parures et bijoux des femmes d'Algérie“, Tamzali, Wassyla, Enterprisse -algérienne de Presse, 1984, p. 164 “Bijoux berbères d'Algérie”, Camps-Fabrer, Edisud, 1990, p. 94 “L'argent de la lune”, Makilan, 2015, p. 97-99 “El llenguatge de la joia”, Fundació Caixa Girona, 2008, p. 116 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 20 ARG141 -
A four-strand traditional coral necklace, called"namysto", from Ukraine. In Ukranian folklore corals were used to symbolize youth and health. Bright red beads meant that the woman was strong and healthy, but dull and greyish ones warned of disease. From the 19th century or older. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Length of the longest strand: 68 cm Size of the bigger central bead (diameter): 1,4 cm Weight: 136,7 gr Literature: “Splendor and shine in the river of time“, Steiner, Irene, Liechtensteinisches Landes Museum, 2020, p. 74 EUR20 -
Necklace with translucent glass beads and bronze bells from the Naga people inhabiting the region of Nagaland, in NE India and NW of Myanmar. From the 19th century or early 20th century. As the Nagas possessed no glass-making technology, these beads were traded. Provenance: Italian private collection Dimensions: Length: 74 cm Size of bigger beads: 4,3 cm It weighs 270,4 g References: “The Nagas”, Jacobs, Julian, Edition Hansjörg Mayer, 2012,p 322 IND1678 -
Ceremonial necklace of woven silver wire, expanded al regular interval to form beads. From Sumbawa island, Indonesia. Only a needle was used to create the very fine detail on this kidd of ornaments. With such rudimentary tools, great craftmanship was required. From the 19th century. In good condition, considering age and wear. The central "bead" has been slightly damaged (see pictures). Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Length: 74 cm Size of the beads: 1,7 cm Weight: 45,3 gr Literature: “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 191 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, wereldmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p. 488-9 INDO105 -
Angami (Naga) necklace with 7 rows of shell, glass and carnelian beads, with bone spacers. It still keeps the original composition, apart from the top strand of carnelian, that are a later addition. From 19th Century or early 20th century. Materials: carnelian, glass beads, shell beads and endings, bone spacers, natural fibers. Provenance: Italian private collection. Length of shorter strand: 90 cm Length of longer strand: 120 cm shell endings: 11,5 x 7,5 cm Width (bone spacers): 9 cm Weight: 666,5 gram Bibliography: Jacobs, Julian “The Nagas – Hill Peoples of Northeast India” Leurquin, Anne “Colliers ethniques” Daalder, Truus “Ethnic Jewellery and Adornments”IND1683 -
High grade silver flat plain neck ring, mainly worn by Akha women (Hill tribes, Golden Triangle, SE Asia). These neck ornaments were made by hammering a silver plate until the desired shape was achieved. From early 20th century. Provenance: Italian private collection Dimensions: Size: 19 x 18 cm Inner diameter: 13,5 cm Back opening: 4,5 cm Weight: 194,2 gr Literature: “Peoples of the golden triangle”, Lewin, Paul and Elaine, River Books, Bangkok, 1998, p. 48 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 141 “The art of silver jewellery. From the minorities of China, the Golden Triangle, Mongolia and Tibet”, Skira, 2006, p.142-144-5 “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 318 SEA492 -
Huge Yemen woman necklace, composed of three big triangular amulets profusely decorated with filigree and appliqué , bells and gilded medallions with illegible pseudo-latin inscriptions. They seem to be an imitation of Venetian zecchino, an used for decoration. A rare addition to this necklace. This kind of necklaces were sometimes made long enough (like this one) to be worn over one shoulder , extending to the waist. This kind of necklaces were worn in Bara'a (Tehama), but similar examples can be found in Saudi Arabia. High grade silver and gilded silver. From the 1st half of the 20th century Provenance: Belgian private collection Dimensions: Total length: 88 cm Size of the triangular amulets (with bells): 11,5 x 8,5 cm Weight: 452 gr Literature: “Silver treasures from the land of Sheba”, Ransom. Marjorie, The American university in Cairo Press, 2014, p. 94 “Traditional Crafts of Saudi Arabia”, Topham, John, Stacey international, London, 1982, p. 76-7 “Shine and Mistery, the splendor and power of Oriental jewelry”, Hoesli, Peter, Knayf-Museum Iphofen, 2023, p. 22, 149 ME246 -
Silver Omani amulet pendant, with etched decoration and small bells at the bottom. Decoration of the back suggests the Oman origin. This piece is rare and looks very similar to some Afghan and Hazara pendants. Materials: silver and turquoise. From the first half of the 20th century. It was sourced in Riadh by the previous owner in the 60s' or 70s'. Provenance: French private collection. Dimensions: 7 x 8 x 0,5 cm Weight: 38,2 gr A similar example from Yemen is in the collection "splendor and Shine" from Germany. ME249 -
Rare woman's Toraja necklace, South and Central Sulawesi, Indonesia. Materials: Silver, wood and painted glass. Most of the glass beads used by the Toraja were imported or derived from trading. The silver beads were probably made by itinerant Bugis smiths; the wood core were typical of Toraja and not found elsewere. From the 19th century or early 20th. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Length: 54 cm (no clasp) Each bead 2,5 x 1 cm Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 344 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 188 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 217 “Gold Jewellery of the Indonesian Archipelago”. Anne Richter, Bruce W. Carpenter, ed.Didier Millet, 2011, p. 256-7 “Beads in Indonesia”, Adhyatman, Sumarah - Arifin, Redjeki, Penerbit Djambatan, 1993, p. 118 INDO104 -
Necklace with old carnelian beads, alternating with bronze bell beads and some orange glass beads. Worn by the Ao Naga people. From the first half of the 20th century, although some brass trumpets and carnelian beads look older. Provenance: Italian private collection. Dimensions: Length: 72 cm Size of the biggest carnelian beads: 3 cm Size of trumpet-shaped beads: 5,5 cm Weight: 226,1 gr Literature: “The Nagas”,Jacobs, Julian, Edition Hansjörg Mayer, 2012, p. 324 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 338 “The splendour of ethnic jewelry”, Borel, France, Thames & Hudson, 1994, p.156 "Arte Naga", Museo Nacional de Etnología, 1988, p.36 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 64 IND1674 -
Silver necklace from the Greater Kabilia in Algeria. These sort of necklaces, called “Azrar”, were given to women as wedding dowry. They were then use on especial celebrations and festivals. Materials: high grade silver, coral and enamel. From the first half of the 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. The necklace has 21 charm pendants in different shapes, also old French silver coins. Some of the pendants were enamel in blue, green and yellow. These colors and the enamel technique used on them are typical of Berber jewelry from the mountainous kabylie, especially from Beni Yenni. A red coral bead was inset on mostly all pendants, to protect the wearer from evil eye and illness. The necklace is shown in its original condition, and hasn’t been clean or repaired. Dimensions: Length: 46 cm Size of bigger pendants: Between 3,2 cm Weight: 153,3 gr It is fastened with a hook. Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 36 “Abzim Parures et bijoux des femmes d'Algérie“, Tamzali, Wassyla, Enterprisse -algérienne de Presse, 1984, p. 164 “Bijoux berbères d'Algérie”, Camps-Fabrer, Edisud, 1990, p. 94 “L'argent de la lune”, Makilan, 2015, p. 97-99 “El llenguatge de la joia”, Fundació Caixa Girona, 2008, p. 116 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 20 ARG130
