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A four-strand traditional coral necklace, called"namysto", from Ukraine. In Ukranian folklore corals were used to symbolize youth and health. Bright red beads meant that the woman was strong and healthy, but dull and greyish ones warned of disease. From the 19th century or older. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Length of the longest strand: 68 cm Size of the bigger central bead (diameter): 1,4 cm Weight: 136,7 gr Literature: “Splendor and shine in the river of time“, Steiner, Irene, Liechtensteinisches Landes Museum, 2020, p. 74 EUR20
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Necklace with translucent glass beads and bronze bells from the Naga people inhabiting the region of Nagaland, in NE India and NW of Myanmar. From the 19th century or early 20th century. As the Nagas possessed no glass-making technology, these beads were traded. Provenance: Italian private collection Dimensions: Length: 74 cm Size of bigger beads: 4,3 cm It weighs 270,4 g References: “The Nagas”, Jacobs, Julian, Edition Hansjörg Mayer, 2012,p 322 IND1678
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Old turquoise, amber and coral beads necklace from the Himalayan region. Turquoise, amber and coral have a prophylactic meaning in Tibet. There are two lonf The beads are from 19th century or older. Turquoise is the most favored gemstone in the Himalayas. It was sourced in Tibet, China and Iran (traveling through Ladakh before the 19th century, and through Bombay and Calcutta later on). Coral came from Italy since the 13th century through the silk road. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: Length: 39,5 cm Biggest amber bead: 2,2 cm (diameter) Weight: 50,5 gr Still in its original stringing. Literature: “Jewellery of Tibet and the Himalayas”, Clarke, John, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 2004 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 “Colliers ethniques d’Afrique d’Asie, d’Océanie et d’Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003 HIM124
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Ceremonial necklace of woven silver wire, expanded al regular interval to form beads. From Sumbawa island, Indonesia. Only a needle was used to create the very fine detail on this kidd of ornaments. With such rudimentary tools, great craftmanship was required. From the 19th century. In good condition, considering age and wear. The central "bead" has been slightly damaged (see pictures). Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Length: 74 cm Size of the beads: 1,7 cm Weight: 45,3 gr Literature: “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 191 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, wereldmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p. 488-9 INDO105
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Angami (Naga) necklace with 7 rows of shell, glass and carnelian beads, with bone spacers. It still keeps the original composition, apart from the top strand of carnelian, that are a later addition. From 19th Century or early 20th century. Materials: carnelian, glass beads, shell beads and endings, bone spacers, natural fibers. Provenance: Italian private collection. Length of shorter strand: 90 cm Length of longer strand: 120 cm shell endings: 11,5 x 7,5 cm Width (bone spacers): 9 cm Weight: 666,5 gram Bibliography: Jacobs, Julian “The Nagas – Hill Peoples of Northeast India” Leurquin, Anne “Colliers ethniques” Daalder, Truus “Ethnic Jewellery and Adornments”IND1683
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High grade silver flat plain neck ring, mainly worn by Akha women (Hill tribes, Golden Triangle, SE Asia). These neck ornaments were made by hammering a silver plate until the desired shape was achieved. From early 20th century. Provenance: Italian private collection Dimensions: Size: 19 x 18 cm Inner diameter: 13,5 cm Back opening: 4,5 cm Weight: 194,2 gr Literature: “Peoples of the golden triangle”, Lewin, Paul and Elaine, River Books, Bangkok, 1998, p. 48 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 141 “The art of silver jewellery. From the minorities of China, the Golden Triangle, Mongolia and Tibet”, Skira, 2006, p.142-144-5 “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 318 SEA492
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Huge Yemen woman necklace, composed of three big triangular amulets profusely decorated with filigree and appliqué , bells and gilded medallions with illegible pseudo-latin inscriptions. They seem to be an imitation of Venetian zecchino, an used for decoration. A rare addition to this necklace. This kind of necklaces were sometimes made long enough (like this one) to be worn over one shoulder , extending to the waist. This kind of necklaces were worn in Bara'a (Tehama), but similar examples can be found in Saudi Arabia. High grade silver and gilded silver. From the 1st half of the 20th century Provenance: Belgian private collection Dimensions: Total length: 88 cm Size of the triangular amulets (with bells): 11,5 x 8,5 cm Weight: 452 gr Literature: “Silver treasures from the land of Sheba”, Ransom. Marjorie, The American university in Cairo Press, 2014, p. 94 “Traditional Crafts of Saudi Arabia”, Topham, John, Stacey international, London, 1982, p. 76-7 “Shine and Mistery, the splendor and power of Oriental jewelry”, Hoesli, Peter, Knayf-Museum Iphofen, 2023, p. 22, 149 ME246
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Silver Omani amulet pendant, with etched decoration and small bells at the bottom. Decoration of the back suggests the Oman origin. This piece is rare and looks very similar to some Afghan and Hazara pendants. Materials: silver and turquoise. From the first half of the 20th century. It was sourced in Riadh by the previous owner in the 60s' or 70s'. Provenance: French private collection. Dimensions: 7 x 8 x 0,5 cm Weight: 38,2 gr A similar example from Yemen is in the collection "splendor and Shine" from Germany. ME249
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Old Turkoman Teke Cheikel. Cheikel are leather bags with partly gilded silver plate studded with carnelian on the front. It is attached to a leather strap with silver discs and gilded silver decorations, and and are worn across the chest or shoulder. This is why the strap is not symmetrical and one side of the strap is more ornate than the other. In the recent past the cheikel was worn by older women. They are used to keep Muslim prayers, talismans, keys, coins and small valuables in. From the 19th century. In good condition, three of the silver discs of the strap are missing. Materials: gilded silver, carnelian, leather. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: Size of the cheikel: 10 x 12 cm Leather strap approx. 100 cm long Literature: “Old silver jewellery of the Turkoman”, Schletzer, Dietrich Reimer Verlag, 1984, p. 112 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p.115-119 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p.194-195 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 132 “Traditional jewellery from Soviet Central Asia and Kazakhstan”, Sovetsky khudozhnik Publishers, 1984, p. 121 CA197
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A long necklace that is usually worn in Southern Uzbekistan in an area where ethnic Uzbek, Tajik, and Pamir live. Made of silver, coral, shell and glass beads. Date: first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Length: 104 cm Central pendant: 7 x 7 cm Weight: 304,3 gr Literature: “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981 “Il corallo. Nell’ornamento dell’Asia islamica dalla Turchia all’Uzbekistan”, del Mare, Cristina- Vidale, Massimo, Electa napoli, 2001 “Kyrgyzstan. Ethnic jewellery of Central Asia”, Kadyrov, V., Rarity Firm LTD, 2007 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 70 CA194
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Rare woman's Toraja necklace, South and Central Sulawesi, Indonesia. Materials: Silver, wood and painted glass. Most of the glass beads used by the Toraja were imported or derived from trading. The silver beads were probably made by itinerant Bugis smiths; the wood core were typical of Toraja and not found elsewere. From the 19th century or early 20th. Provenance: Belgian private collection. Dimensions: Length: 54 cm (no clasp) Each bead 2,5 x 1 cm Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 344 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 188 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 217 “Gold Jewellery of the Indonesian Archipelago”. Anne Richter, Bruce W. Carpenter, ed.Didier Millet, 2011, p. 256-7 INDO104
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Necklace with old carnelian beads, alternating with bronze bell beads and some orange glass beads. Worn by the Ao Naga people. From the first half of the 20th century, although some brass trumpets and carnelian beads look older. Provenance: Italian private collection. Dimensions: Length: 72 cm Size of the biggest carnelian beads: 3 cm Size of trumpet-shaped beads: 5,5 cm Weight: 226,1 gr Literature: “The Nagas”,Jacobs, Julian, Edition Hansjörg Mayer, 2012, p. 324 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 338 “The splendour of ethnic jewelry”, Borel, France, Thames & Hudson, 1994, p.156 "Arte Naga", Museo Nacional de Etnología, 1988, p.36 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 64 IND1674
