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High-grade silver two-hinged part bracelet (naugari) with projections of simulated gajre balls made from stamped sheet silver. From Rajasthan, India. It is usually worn with many other bracelets on the arms, covering up the whole length. From mid 20th Century or earlier It fastens with a pin. Sizes: Diameter: 14 cm Inner diameter: 7 cm Each projection: 35 mm Weight: 295 gr. Literature: ” Traditional Jewelry of India” by Oppi Untracht, page 255. “Bracelets ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie d’Océanie et d’Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002 “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 IND1173
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Heavy Indian massive silver bracelet from Himachal Pradesh and Rajasthan, made by the lost wax technique. High-grade silver (tested). From the 1st half of the 20th century or earlier. The heaviest bracelets of these kind were not meant to be worn, but were kept as family wealth. Dimensions: Total size: 8,5 x 9 cm Inner diameter: 4,3 cm Opening gap: 1,5 cm Weight: 285,8 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie d’Océanie et d’Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002 IND689
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Pair of silver flexible “paizebh” anklets from India. High-grade silver shaped in a beautiful chain. From the first half of the XXth Century. They can be opened easily with a pin. This kind of flexible Indian anklets look lighter and more frivolous than the rigid pieces that can be found in other regions in India, but they are usually heavier than they appear to be. Women in traditional Central India usually wear several flexible and rigid anklets on each leg at the same time. Check the post about Indian anklets in my blog for more information. Dimensions: Length: 28 cm Width: 3 cm Combined weight: 227,6 gr. Literature: “Indian Jewellery”, Holbein Hendley, Thomas, BR publication, Delhi, 2009 “Rajasthan's silver jewellery”, Pandey, Tripti, Rupa &co,, New Delhi, 2003 IND1571
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Old silver pendant necklace, used as a lingam casket box. These pendants were designed as containers to hold a sacred lingam stone representing the god Shiva. Lingayats are a Hindu group who believe that Shiva is the only deity, rather than the 3 gods revered by other Hindus. They also believed that the sacred presence of Shiva was not simply confined to the temple, but that it could be held in these pendants for a personal connection to the god. Bibliography: “Traditional Jewelry of India” by Oppi Untracht, page133. This is an original and worn piece, in excellent condition, from the 19th Century. Provenance: Ex- Michael Backman Gallery Length of the chain: 70 cm (27,56 in) Size of pendant: 72 mm wide and 52 mm high. It weighs 151 gr. For more information about this fascinating pieces, please see my post on Indian lingam box caskets. IND1149
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Silver girdle with amulet box that opens with a pin. From Andhra Pradesh, India. The amulet box can be opened with a pin on one side. First half of the 20th century. Provenance: ex-Dutch private collection. Dimensions: Size of the amulet box: 5,5 x 10,5 cm Length of the chain:70 cm Weight: 134,1 gr Literature: “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p.147 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 318 IND1642
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Uzbek necklace, most probably from Bokhara (Central Asia). Made of silver, gilded silver, glass cabochons, coral, mother of pearl, pearls and some turquoises. First quarter of the 20th century. Provenance: Italian private collection. Dimensions: Length without cords: approx 60 cm Central pendant 14 x 7 cm Weight: 127,9 gr Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 198 “Il corallo. Nell'ornamento dell'Asia islamica dalla Turchia all'Uzbekistan”, del Mare, Cristina-Vidale, Massimo, Electa napoli, 2001 “Kyrgyzstan. Ethnic jewellery of Central Asia”, Kadyrov, V., Rarity Firm LTD, 2007, p.18 CA161
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Necklace worn by Dayak Kelabit women in Borneo, Indonesia. Beads are valued by all the Borneo's tribes. Dayak families of the upper class own a certain number of old beads which formed an important part of a family’s prestige and wealth, and were one of the principal forms of currency. Materials: Carnelian, metal, glass beads and feline or bear teeth. Glass beads were for years imported and traded from India, China and Europe. The yellow doughnut beads and the rosette decorated beads have considerable ritual value. Age: The necklace is made with beads of different ages, some of them could be a couple of hundred years old or more, other glass beads are from the 19th and 20th century. The majority of the heirloom glass beads in Kalimantan are most probably from the 17th-19th c, when trade with Europe was at his height. Dimensions: Total length: 80 cm Central tassel of beads: 7 cm Literature: "Heirloom beads among the Dayak of Borneo", Campbell, Barbie, BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers 34 (2022) "Beads of Borneo", Munan, Heidi, Editions Didier Millet, 2005, p. 58-59 "Beads in Indonesia" Adhyatman, Sumarah - Arifin, Redjeki, Penerbit Djambatan, 1993, p. 94 INDO70
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Old Turkoman Teke Cheikel. Cheikel are leather bags with partly gilded silver plate studded with carnelian on the front. It is attached to a leather strap with silver discs and gilded silver decorations, and and are worn across the chest or shoulder. This is why the strap is not symmetrical and one side of the strap is more ornate than the other. In the recent past the cheikel was worn by older women. They are used to keep Muslim prayers, talismans, keys, coins and small valuables in. From the 19th century. In good condition, three of the silver discs of the strap are missing. Materials: gilded silver, carnelian, leather. Provenance: German private collection. Dimensions: Size of the cheikel: 10 x 12 cm Leather strap approx. 100 cm long Literature: “Old silver jewellery of the Turkoman”, Schletzer, Dietrich Reimer Verlag, 1984, p. 112 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p.115-119 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p.194-195 “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 132 “Traditional jewellery from Soviet Central Asia and Kazakhstan”, Sovetsky khudozhnik Publishers, 1984, p. 121 CA197
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This is a heavy matching pair of Turkmen bracelets from the Tekke tribe. Good silver content and carnelian gemstones, The silver was etched and fire-gilded. From late 19th Century or beginning 20th. Very good conditions, silver shows an extraordinary patina due to use. The Turkmens are a Turkic people located primarily in the Central Asian states of Turkmenistan, Afghanistan, northern Pakistan, northeastern Iran, Syria, Iraq and North Caucasus. The bracelets measure 9 cm long. Inner diameter (bigger): 65 mm Inner diameter (smaller): 62 mm Weight: 455 gr References: “Bracelets ethniques”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984 “Old silver jewellery of the Turkoman”, Schletzer, Dietrich, Reimer Verlag, 1984 ME57
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A gold marriage pendant from South India, worn by women in Tamil Nadu and Kerala. The purity of gold is 22 kt. From the 19th century. The size of the pendant is 3,4 x 2,6 cm (1,34 x 1,02 inches) It weighs 4,3 gr. Literature: “When gold Blossons”, Aitken, Molly Emma, Asia Society & Philip Wilson Publishers, 2004 “Traditional Jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009 For more information about these pendants, check our post about Gold Indian talis IND1453
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Gold marriage pendants from South India, worn by women in Tamil Nadu and Kerala. The purity of gold is at least 22 kt. From the 19th century. Provenance: Spanish private collection. The size of the pendants is 3,4 x 2,6 cm Literature: “When gold Blossons”, Aitken, Molly Emma, Asia Society & Philip Wilson Publishers, 2004 “Traditional Jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009 INDN89
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Necklace with translucent glass beads and bronze bells from the Naga people inhabiting the region of Nagaland, in NE India and NW of Myanmar. From the 19th century or early 20th century. As the Nagas possessed no glass-making technology, these beads were traded. Provenance: Italian private collection Dimensions: Length: 74 cm Size of bigger beads: 4,3 cm It weighs 270,4 g References: “The Nagas”, Jacobs, Julian, Edition Hansjörg Mayer, 2012,p 322 IND1678
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Old Silver belt from Karnataka, India. A central belt buckle is attached to four thick braided chains with rossettes. Belts are worn by women over the sari. Two mythological animals are depicted here: the holy cow Kamdhenu and the elephant Airavati. Both bring happiness. High-grade silver. From 1st half of 20th Century. The buckle can be opened with a screw. Dimensions: The length of the belt is 83,5 cm Medallions diameter: 2,5 cm Size of the buckle: 13 x 5,5 cm Weight: 315 gr Literature: “Silver from fetish to fashion”, Nadler, Daniel and Serga, pdn publishing, 2005 “Indian Folk jewellery” Ganguly, Waltraud, B.R. Publishing Corporation, 2015 IND1141
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Huge Yemen woman necklace, composed of three big triangular amulets profusely decorated with filigree and appliqué , bells and gilded medallions with illegible pseudo-latin inscriptions. They seem to be an imitation of Venetian zecchino, an used for decoration. A rare addition to this necklace. This kind of necklaces were sometimes made long enough (like this one) to be worn over one shoulder , extending to the waist. This kind of necklaces were worn in Bara'a (Tehama), but similar examples can be found in Saudi Arabia. High grade silver and gilded silver. From the 1st half of the 20th century Provenance: Belgian private collection Dimensions: Total length: 88 cm Size of the triangular amulets (with bells): 11,5 x 8,5 cm Weight: 452 gr Literature: “Silver treasures from the land of Sheba”, Ransom. Marjorie, The American university in Cairo Press, 2014, p. 94 “Traditional Crafts of Saudi Arabia”, Topham, John, Stacey international, London, 1982, p. 76-7 “Shine and Mistery, the splendor and power of Oriental jewelry”, Hoesli, Peter, Knayf-Museum Iphofen, 2023, p. 22, 149 ME246
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Silver necklace from the Greater Kabilia in Algeria. These sort of necklaces, called “Azrar”, were given to women as wedding dowry. They were then use on especial celebrations and festivals. Materials: high grade silver, coral and enamel. From the first half of the 20th century. Provenance: German private collection. The necklace has 21 charm pendants in different shapes, also old French silver coins. Some of the pendants were enamel in blue, green and yellow. These colors and the enamel technique used on them are typical of Berber jewelry from the mountainous kabylie, especially from Beni Yenni. A red coral bead was inset on mostly all pendants, to protect the wearer from evil eye and illness. The necklace is shown in its original condition, and hasn’t been clean or repaired. Dimensions: Length: 41 cm Size of bigger pendants: Between 2,5 and 2,7 cm Weight: 147,4 gr It is fastened with a hook. Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 36 “Abzim Parures et bijoux des femmes d'Algérie“, Tamzali, Wassyla, Enterprisse -algérienne de Presse, 1984, p. 164 “Bijoux berbères d'Algérie”, Camps-Fabrer, Edisud, 1990, p. 94 “L'argent de la lune”, Makilan, 2015, p. 97-99 “El llenguatge de la joia”, Fundació Caixa Girona, 2008, p. 116 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p. 20 ARG141
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Angami (Naga) necklace with 7 rows of shell, glass and carnelian beads, with bone spacers. It still keeps the original composition, apart from the top strand of carnelian, that are a later addition. From 19th Century or early 20th century. Materials: carnelian, glass beads, shell beads and endings, bone spacers, natural fibers. Provenance: Italian private collection. Length of shorter strand: 90 cm Length of longer strand: 120 cm shell endings: 11,5 x 7,5 cm Width (bone spacers): 9 cm Weight: 666,5 gram Bibliography: Jacobs, Julian “The Nagas – Hill Peoples of Northeast India” Leurquin, Anne “Colliers ethniques” Daalder, Truus “Ethnic Jewellery and Adornments”IND1683
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Necklace from Ladakh, India, made of old silver parts, amber, coral and turquoise beads, and a central lapis lazuli bead. The necklace was re-strung on the 80s' following the traditional Ladakhi ornaments, and using old parts and beads that can be as old as 18th or 19th century some of them. Dimensions: Total length (shorter strand): 62 cm Weight: 242,5 gr Literature: “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 154 HIM129
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A three-strand traditional coral necklace, called"namysto", from Ukraine. In Ukranian folklore corals were used to symbolize youth and health. Bright red beads meant that the woman was strong and healthy, but dull and greyish ones warned of disease. From the 19th century or older. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Length of the longest strand: 68 cm Size of the bigger central bead (diameter): 1,5 cm Weight: 134,6 gr Literature: “Splendor and shine in the river of time“, Steiner, Irene, Liechtensteinisches Landes Museum, 2020, p. 74 EUR19
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A four-strand traditional coral necklace, called"namysto", from Ukraine. In Ukranian folklore corals were used to symbolize youth and health. Bright red beads meant that the woman was strong and healthy, but dull and greyish ones warned of disease. From the 19th century or older. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Length of the longest strand: 68 cm Size of the bigger central bead (diameter): 1,4 cm Weight: 136,7 gr Literature: “Splendor and shine in the river of time“, Steiner, Irene, Liechtensteinisches Landes Museum, 2020, p. 74 EUR20
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Rare silver and coral necklace from Uzbekistan, most probably from the Khorezm area. First half of the 20th century. Material: coral beads, silver, glass beads and Ottoman and Russian coins. The Ottoman or Uzbek coins are old and worn, one of them is dated in 1279 (1858 CE, the other ones are worn off and it is not possible to see the date. The Russian coins are dated between 1922 and 1929. Dimensions: Length: 62 cm Size of the bigger Russian coins: 2,7 cm (diameter) Weight: 162 gr Literature: “Kyrgyzstan. Ethnic jewellery of Central Asia”, Kadyrov, V., Rarity Firm LTD, 2007, p. 21 “Il corallo. Nell'ornamento dell'Asia islamica dalla Turchia all'Uzbekistan”, del Mare, Cristina-Vidale, Massimo, Electa napoli, 2001, p. 92 CA170
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A six-strand necklace that is usually worn in Southern Uzbekistan in an area where ethnic Uzbek, Tajik, and Pamir live. Made of silver, coral, shell and glass beads. Date: first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Length: 92 cm Central pendant with dangles: 11,5 x 5,7 cm Weight: 262,1 gr Literature: “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981 “Il corallo. Nell’ornamento dell’Asia islamica dalla Turchia all’Uzbekistan”, del Mare, Cristina- Vidale, Massimo, Electa napoli, 2001 “Kyrgyzstan. Ethnic jewellery of Central Asia”, Kadyrov, V., Rarity Firm LTD, 2007 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011 CA172
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Vintage 22kt gold ring from India, inset with diamonds in irregular cut. From the second half of the 20th century. Provenance: Italian private collection Dimensions: Top of the ring: 1,5 x 1,3 cm Ring size: 6 3/4 or 17 mm inner diameter. IND1673
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A long necklace that is usually worn in Southern Uzbekistan in an area where ethnic Uzbek, Tajik, and Pamir live. Made of silver, coral, shell and glass beads. Date: first half of the 20th century or earlier. Dimensions: Length: 104 cm Central pendant: 7 x 7 cm Weight: 304,3 gr Literature: “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981 “Il corallo. Nell’ornamento dell’Asia islamica dalla Turchia all’Uzbekistan”, del Mare, Cristina- Vidale, Massimo, Electa napoli, 2001 “Kyrgyzstan. Ethnic jewellery of Central Asia”, Kadyrov, V., Rarity Firm LTD, 2007 “De kracht van Zilver. Etnische sieraden uit de collectie smith hutschenruyter”, Mols, Luitgard, Wereld Museum, Rotterdam, 2011 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 70 CA194
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These Sumbanese bracelets, worn by men and women alike, are easily identified by its graceful form and triangle decoration with dots. Age: 19th century or older. The object has been examined by an ivory appraiser and has a certificate stating that the ivory predates 1947. In very good condition, with no chips or damages. Dimensions: Total size: 10 cm Inner diameter: 6 cm Weight: 273,7 gr Literature: “Bracelets ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie d’Océanie et d’Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 294 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 206 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, werelsmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p.352 “L’or des Iles. Bijoux et ornements d’indonesie, malaisie et philippines”, Rodgers, Susan, Musée Barbier Mueller, Geneve, 1991, p. 296
