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Old Tekke ring, made of high grade silver and fire gilded silver. The whole ring has an old and worn patina. From the Turkoman people, Central Asia. From the first half of the 20th century. Provenance: UK private collection. Size (inner mm): 19,25 mm - US size is 9 1/4 Weight: 8,7 gr Literature: “The arts and crafts of Turkestan”, Kalter, Johannes, Thames and Hudson, 1983, p. 127 “Der Turkmenenschmuck”, Rudolph, Hermann, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1984, p. 251 “Bagues ethniques d’afrique, d’Asie et d’Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 112 CA241
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Head ornament worn by chamans from Krui people (South Sumatra) or from Siberut Island, Mentawai archipielago (Indonesia). Materials: wood, cotton, glass beads, cauris, shell, paper seeds. The suspended objects are considered to have magic powers. First half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 20 x 20 x 18 cm Literature: “Le Monde en Tete”, Seuil, 2019, p. 190 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 186 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 101 “Voyage dans ma tête”, fage éditions, 2010, p. 152 INDO131
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Pubic ornament for boys, which was worn around the waist. From Sumbawa, Indonesia. High grade silver, decorated with filigree and granulation. From the 19th century. Dimensions: Ornament(with round beads): 7,5 x 5,5 cm Height with base: 20,5 cm Weight: 16,2 gr Literature: “Sieraden, en lichaamsversiering uit Indonesië”, Wassing, Rita, Museum Nusantara, 1984, p.116 INDO133
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South Sumatran comb used as part of the wedding cerimonial jewellery, together with other pieces (Indonesia). These filigree combs are found in Lampung and are usually referred to as Lampung combs, it appears that they were manufactured n West Sumatra by the Minangkabau who excelled in this work. The filigree and granulated decoration confirm de Islamic influence on the Sumatran coasts. Materials: gilded silver, silver. From the first half of the 20th century. Dimensions: 13,5 x 6 cm Weight: 69,4 gr Literature: “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 280 “Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 125 “Magie van de vrouw”, Vanderstraete, Anne, wereldmuseum, Rotterdam, 2012, p. 273 INDO155
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Big silver men's ring from Tibet. It is called Saddle ring because of the shape similar to a horse saddle. Made of high grade silver, coral and turquoise. From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Provenance: UK private collection. Dimensions: Top of the ring: 2,7 cm Ring size: Adjustable, 9 - 19 mm (inner diameter) Weight: 25 gr Literature: “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 124 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 291 “Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands”, The pepin Press, 2002, p.173 “Jewellery of Tibet and the Himalayas”, Clarke, John, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 2004, p. 25 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 155 HIM136
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A broad war helmet frontlet shaped from hammered brass known as a tap lavong kayo from Kayanic Dayak, eastern Kalimantan, Borneo, Indonesia.
Material: bronze.
From the first half of the 20th century.
The frontlet is folded gently backwards at the midsection to accommodate the curvature of the helmet and features projecting tendrils that flank a highly stylized visage. Scholars posit that these figures represent protective guardian spirits or perhaps spirits of ancestral figures who protect the warriors during each instance of combat.
Provenance: European private collection
Dimensions:
Only the helmet frontlet: 19,5 x 13 cm
Literature:
“Ethnic Jewelry from Indonesia”, Carpenter, Bruce W., Editions Didier Millet, 2011, p. 152 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 279, 324 “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 211 “The jewelry of Southeast Asia”, Richter, Anne, Thames & Hudson, 2000, p. 222INDO107
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Hair pin from Sumba, Indonesia Material: Tortoiseshell From the first half of the 20th century or earlier. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: 14 x 6,5 cm Literature: INDO42
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Beaded pectoral called hapamat , worn by Kungrat Uzbek women, Central Asia. Women of these Uzbek group make themselves beaded ornaments, that are meant to be protective against evil eye. Unlike other ethnic groups of Central Asia that use silver or gold to make their ornaments, the Kungrats prefer beads to adorn themselves. Materials: Glass beads, metal ornaments, mother of pearl buttons, cowries and cotton thread. From the 60s' of 20th century. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: 34 x 28 cm Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 205 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p. 259 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 110 CA203
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Beaded pectoral called hapamat , worn by Kungrat Uzbek women, Central Asia. Women of these Uzbek group make themselves beaded ornaments, that are meant to be protective against evil eye. Unlike other ethnic groups of Central Asia that use silver or gold to make their ornaments, the Kungrats prefer beads to adorn themselves. Materials: Glass beads, metal ornaments, mother of pearl buttons, cowries and cotton thread. From the 60s' of 20th century. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Pectoral:29 x 21 cm Length of the doble beaded strand to fasten it: 38 cm Literature: “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 205 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p. 259 “Schmuck aus Zentralasien”, Prokot, Inge and Joachim Callwey, Verlag München, 1981, p. 110 CA202
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Belt buckle from the Caucasus, made up of two silver elements with engraved and niello decoration of stylized geometric and plant motifs, enhanced with riveted nails and carnelian cabochons. Attachment system using a metal rod with an openwork button head connected by a chain to one of the two elements. The size of the belt buckle and the fine niello decoration shows the social status of the owner of this piece. Material: Silver, niello, carnelian and blass on the back From the 19th or early 20th century. Size: 40 cm x 8 cm Weight: 546,2 gr Literature: “Ceintures ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2004, p.123 “Ethnic jewellery and adornment” Daalder, Truus, Ethnic Art Press, 2009, p. 368 ME231
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High grade silver earrings worn by Miao Chinese minority in SW China hills. From early 20th century. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: 6,5 x 3,7 x 1 cm Weight: 19,3 gr Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001, p. 177 XIN13
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Fon bracelet made of silver and worn on the upper part of the arm. More than one hundred years ago, the elite of the Danhomé Kingdom in West Africa would have worn these silver ornaments to adorn themselves and show off their wealth, and also to protect themselves from harm and evil. Fashioned by jewelers from imported silver coins, the ornaments were embellished with tiny sculptures that refer to past kings, heroic wars, and the Vodun religion. The coins attached to the ornaments date from between 1873 and 1910. Silver content is probably around 700/1000. Provenance: French private collection. Dimensions: Central plate: 5 x 4 x 4 cm Length of the chains: 20 cm Weight: 42,7 gr WA179
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Matching pair of silver hinged anklets natla, from Oman. The frontal side is elaborately patterned with engraved and embossed designs. They fasten with a pin. For a woman, after marriage, anklets were considered an essential part of the dress. High-grade silver (tested as more 800/1000). From the beginning of the the XXth century. Overall in good condition, they show some wear, consistent with age and use. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Inner diameter: 6,8 cm Total size: 10 x 11,5 x 6 cm Weight: 860 gr References: “Silver. The traditional art of Oman”, Hawley, Ruth, Stacey International, London, 2000, p. 59 “Bracelets ethniques”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2002, p. 145 “Oman Adorned”, Shelton, Pauline-Morris, Miranda, Apex Publishing, 1997, p. 118 “Disappearing Treasures of Oman”, Forster, Avelyn, Archway books, 1998, p.73 “Shine and Mistery, the splendor and power of Oriental jewelry”, Hoesli, Peter, Knayf-Museum Iphofen, 2023, p. 102-103 ME283
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Shawl clasp digra worn by Monpa women in Kameng Division, Arunachal Pradesh (India). Used to fasten the clothes, the bail was at the bottom when worn, with an ornamented chain hanging from it. Aka and Miji tribal women from the same division would also wear this garment. Made of silver and turquoise. 19th century or early 20th Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: 13 x 12 cm Weight: 109,2 gr Literature: "The seven sisters of India", Stirn and Van Ham, Prestel, 2000, p. 46 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 139 “Himalayan treasures”, Giehmann, Manfred, The Manfred Giehmann collection, 2019, p.75, 80 HIM152
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Shawl clasp digra worn by Monpa women in Kameng Division, Arunachal Pradesh (India). Used to fasten the clothes, the bail was at the bottom when worn, with an ornamented chain hanging from it. Aka and Miji tribal women from the same division would also wear this garment. Made of silver, coral and turquoise. 19th century or early 20th Provenance: European private collection Dimensions: 8,3 x 6 cm Weight: 40,5 gr Literature: "The seven sisters of India", Stirn and Van Ham, Prestel, 2000, p. 46 “Traditional jewelry of India”, Untracht, Oppi, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 1997, p. 139 “Himalayan treasures”, Giehmann, Manfred, The Manfred Giehmann collection, 2019, p.75, 80 HIM151
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Bronze box that contains lime. The box is suspended from the belt, together with a beaded ornament and spatula. Lime is necessary for the preparation of betel. From the 19th century or early 20th. Dimensions: 6 x 5,5 x 6 cm Weight: 174,1 gr It is overall in good condition, although the two parts don't totally fit, due to deposits of lime on the rim A similar example can be seen at the British Museum's collection in London Literature: “Ceintures ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2004, p. 160 IND1615
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Silver ring from the Himalayan region. Made of high grade silver and a turquoise. From the first half of the 20th century. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Top of the ring: 2,5 cm Size of ring: 8 1/2 or 18,75 (inner diameter) Weight: 23,7 gr Literature: “Bagues ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie et d'Amerique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2000, p. 155 HIM142
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High grade silver and turquoise ring, either from Central Asia or from Saudi Arabia. From he first half of the 20th century. Provenance: European private collection. Size: Ring size 8 1/2 or 18,75 inner diameter Top of the ring: 2 cm ME265
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Large two-strand wedding Skhab necklace from Tunisia. The beads were made with a paste containing grey amber, sandal, musk, rose water, and other scented materials. The skhab necklaces were an important piece of women's jewellery in the Maghreb area, specially in Algeria and Tunisia. The scented beads were considered aphrodisiac, so the necklace could only be worn when the husband was around. Scented beads, high grade silver and cotton. From the first half of the 20th century. Although some decades has passed since the necklace was made it is still possible to smell the scent. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Length of the shorter strand: 88 cm Length of the longer strand: 104 cm Size of the scented beads: 4,7 x 4,7 x 1,2 cm Size of the silver conical beads: 7 cm long Literature: “Le bijoux de Tunisie”, Samira Gargouri-Sethom, Dunes Editions, 2005, p. 123 “Le bijou traditionnel en Tunisie” Samira Gargouri-Sethom, Edisud, 1986, p. 41 “Colliers ethniques d'Afrique d'Asie, d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, Leurquin, Anne, Skira, 2003, p. 43 “Jewelry from the Orient (Bir Collection)”, Seiwert, Wolf Dieter, Arnoldsche, 2009, p. 36 TUN13
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Lahu or Lisu silver earrings from the Golden Triangle (SE Asia). Surrounded by small pendants, a decorated bell hangs in the middle of each earring. The hook is a new addition and allow the earrings to be easily worn. From the first half of the 20th century. Length with hook: 9,5 cm Combined weight: 63 gr Literature: “A world of earrings. Africa, Asia America”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2001, p. 196 “Peoples of the golden triangle”, Lewin, Paul and Elaine, River Books, Bangkok, 1998, p. 61 SEA509
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Old silver bracelet "bitäwa", worn by male members of the Amhara ethnic group in Ethiopia. Armlets of this kind were presented by the emperor to the most successful warriors. They were worn on the right arm. From the beginning of the 20th century or older. Provenance: European private collection. The bracelet fastens with a long pin. Dimensions: Length: 16,5 gr Inner diameter on one end: 5 cm Inner diameter on the other end: 8 cm Weight: 245 gr EA51
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Tunisian silver amulet. The cylindrical hirz amulet is completed with dangles with khomsas (Fatima's hand) for extra protection. High grade silver. From the first half of the 20th century. Provenance: European private collection Dimensions: Length of the chain: 64 cm Size of the pendant with dangles: 9 x 7 cm TUN12
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Man's silver ring from the Himalayan region, made of high grade silver and a three coral beads. From the first half of the 20th century. Provenance: European private collection. Dimensions: Size of ring: 11 1/4 - 21 mm (inner diameter) Weight: 13,3 gr HIM132
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Head ornament worn on the hair by married women in Central and Southern Tibet, attached to a big and impressive headdress. The cane structure that held these ornaments may have pre-Buddhist origins and reminds of the silver-encased hair constructions of the Kalkha Mongols, shape like horns. Materials: silver, turquoise, and copper on the back. Dimensions: (approx): 5,6 x 3,2 x 2,2 cm Weight: 36 gr Literature: “Himalayan treasures”, Giehmann, Manfred, The Manfred Giehmann collection, 2019, p. 54 "Gold jewelry from Tibet and Nepal", Singer, Jane Casey, Thames & Hudson, London, 1996, p. 136 “Jewellery of Tibet and the Himalayas”, Clarke, John, Harry N. Abrams. Inc publishers, 2004, p. 80-1 “Parures de tête ethniques d'afrique, d'Asie d'Océanie et d'Amérique”, van Cutsem, Anne, Skira, 2005, p. 122-4 HIM155
